Jamma PSU for DE sound card ? - DE hum cure ?

[Cryptkeeper]

Over on pinside they are saying that a separate PSU for the sound card will get rid of DE spaeker hum.
I might try it with a Jamma PSU.
any done it ?
I'd add in a a few fuses if needed but I havent even looked at the wiring in my TFTC.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

Been following the same thread. Lot of people having success with seperate power supply. I have ' the hum' on Tommy .........though you only notice it in attract mode.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure



EDIT - Title edited for future reference

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

Thisi is the one the Pinside guy originally used ....£40 from Farnell here. I would imagine anything matching same spec would do.

http://uk.farnell.com/artesyn-embed...ookieCreated=true&CAWELAID=120173390000246154

 

[Cryptkeeper]

A jamma PSU has no -12v now that I think about it.

 

[andy]

An old AT PC power supply would work too - or indeed an ATX though I think on those you have to ground a pin in one of the plugs to make it power up as there's no physical on/off switch.

 

[andy]

An old AT PC power supply would work too - or indeed an ATX though I think on those you have to ground a pin in one of the plugs to make it power up as there's no physical on/off switch.

Although a Pinball Circus power supply might be difficult to get hold of!

 

[Cryptkeeper]

Just ordered a psu from the states for 30e delivered

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/122342164991?ul_noapp=true

he took an on offer of $13.50

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

Just ordered a psu from the states for 30e delivered

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/122342164991?ul_noapp=true

he took an on offer of $13.50

I took delivery of the same one. Powered it up .......... got no output from it

Have you tried yours yet ?

 

[Cryptkeeper]

Hay Grizz,
Got mime yes,
havent tested it tho.
Will tonight and report back.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

Hay Grizz,
Got mime yes,
havent tested it tho.
Will tonight and report back.

Cheers. It does say it handles 100v - 240V input . My mains is reading 246v but that should be within tolerance ?

 

[ronsplooter]

@Sgt GrizZ have you tried floating the sound board using nylon screws and washers? I've ordered some for Torpedo Alley after seeing something on Pinside about it.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

@Sgt GrizZ have you tried floating the sound board using nylon screws and washers? I've ordered some for Torpedo Alley after seeing something on Pinside about it.

Yes. Tried all the easy fixes. No change. A separate power supply appears to work for everyone who has tried it.

 

[ronsplooter]

I may have to go down this route if the nylon screws don't change anything then

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

If my cheapy US board is fubar I guess I'll get the one from Farnell ........like I prob should have done to begin with

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

UPDATE !

Good news ......my power supply *is* working fine. I was a numpty, measuring the output DC using the machines ground instead of the new power supply ground pin. Doh !

Bad news ..... made up a 6 pin connector. Connected up. Makes no difference at all to the 'hum' Balls. Waste of time and money. Oh well, worth a shot, has worked for others. Think it might be a Pinsound board after all.

FTR the hum on mine is especially noticeable in attract mode, the intensity of it rises and falls as the lamps do their attract sequence. I dont really notice it when playing as you have all the other music and sounds going. Other people have had the same and fixed it with an aux power supply, so disappointed it didn't work for me

 

[Cryptkeeper]

Well that sucks Grizz
What size wire did you use to make up the new harness .5mm?

Cheers

 

[lukewells]

Floating the board is technically a bad idea, in electrical theory, the better the ground connection the less the noise should be.

Can I ask what type of noise you are trying to solve? Do you mean actual hum (like 50hz mains hum) as that is cured by fixing the sound board ground and replacing / upgrading the filter capacitors on the sound board (c30, c31,c52, c59) assuming you are talking about a 520-5050-00 sound board.

c52 and c59 benefit from being high-end caps as these are for the internally generated analog dac rails on the sound board.


Now on a Data East, it is also common to get attract more noise from the DMD

Even more likely, you could be taking about the famous lamp matrix noise on a Data East machine that you will hear during attract mode, that will vary as the lamp patterns change. If your game has the large capacitor mounted in the backbox next to the bridge rectifiers, then replacing that will help with the lamp matrix noise.

Finally, make sure your volume control cable is shielded, and the shield conductor is grounded at both ends

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

Now on a Data East, it is also common to get attract more noise from the DMD

Even more likely, you could be taking about the famous lamp matrix noise on a Data East machine that you will hear during attract mode, that will vary as the lamp patterns change. If your game has the large capacitor mounted in the backbox next to the bridge rectifiers, then replacing that will help with the lamp matrix noise.

Finally, make sure your volume control cable is shielded, and the shield conductor is grounded at both ends

Thanks @lukewells - interesting.

I think I'll try replacing 'big blue' cap then - shocked at the cost though .....only matching ones I can find in UK are £40 !!

http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...GAEpiMZZMsh%2b1woXyUXjwlr1rzhKH0p9k5xGNm814c=

 

[Paul]

30,000uF (30mf) @ 25VDC - must be some cheaper than that.....

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

30,000uF (30mf) @ 25VDC - must be some cheaper than that.....

Thats what I thought .........I'm still looking

EDIT -

Nope. Here's a 30v one at farnell ....same price

http://uk.farnell.com/cornell-dubilier/cgs303u030v4c/aluminum-electrolytic-capacitor/dp/1222976

 

[aaronhicksuk]

30,000uf at a higher voltage would be fine too. If you can find one that is sold more regularly it would probably be cheaper.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

30,000uf at a higher voltage would be fine too. If you can find one that is sold more regularly it would probably be cheaper.

Yeah - struggling to find many in UK

Found US supplier on ebay - would be cheaper (even with postage) ...approx £31 shipped (or less if they take an offer)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30000uF-2...677840?hash=item2103eb5f90:g:6fYAAOSwhcJWG8Mh

 

[astyy]

I fitted Inkonchitos bridge board to replace the 'big' cap and BRs in my Hook.

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

I fitted Inkonchitos bridge board to replace the 'big' cap and BRs in my Hook.

Interesting ! Hadn't seen that before

http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

 

[Paul]

And of course @Inkochnito is already on here

 

[RudeDogg1]

I also put one in firepower

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

If a replacement cap is nearly £40 anyway..... then it looks the way to go

 

[astyy]

If a replacement cap is nearly £40 anyway..... then it looks the way to go

Yep that was exactly my thinking - that whole area was "crusty" on mine and this upgraded and tidied it all up in one foul swoop. Peter @Inkochnito was supportive throughout - not that it's difficult and his documentation is good.
Here's a before and after in case you need further convincing

 

[Sgt GrizZ]

OK

As the aux power supply didn't make a difference for me, though quite a few are reporting it has worked for them over on Pinside, I have no need for mine.

If anyone has the 'hum' and wants to give it a go in their DE game ......FOR SALE £12.50 shipped in UK ..which is less than half what I paid for it from the US.

All the details about installation etc in the Pinside thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-speaker-noise-ideas-for-a-cure/page/6

Its straightforward enough if you are happy with a multimeter, knocking up a couple of new connectors.

EDIT - NOW SOLD

 

[ronsplooter]

@Sgt GrizZ dude, I'll take it Floating the sound board on Torpedo Alley did f*ck all so worth giving this a try I'll PM you.