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In Progress HERE COMES THE RUSH - Diner

I figured we'd do a thread for Claire's holy grail DINER

Mainly to get advice and feedback as well as track progress.

Until now all my pins have arrived working and just needed cleaning, or parts replacing or tweaking here and there so they play to my high standards 🤣

Diner arrived DEAD. We knew it had a board issue but this is Claires grail and we knew it could be either fixed or replaced.
The board had battery damage at some point but has had nvram installed.
My eyes couldn't see anything wrong but it's definitely borked so the board has been sent to Jim @myPinballs to work his magic.

In the meantime I'm trying to assess what needs doing on the areas I'm more comfortable with, the playfield and mechs.

The playfield has had the mylar removed and in general is in good condition.
The main issues are a few of the customers had art missing from their faces and clothing.
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In the cabinet was a collection of decals/overlays. I considered using them but noticed the scale was slightly off.
So I thought I'd cut out the bits needed thinking the scale might not be as noticable in smaller sections.

So Haji's & Babs' heads were cut out from the decal and I thought F it lets try It.
I thought this might be a huge mistake as if I screw it up or it looks bad I can't remove them without removing even more art.
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I'm quite pleased with the result. It's hardly noticeable except Babs' double chin? I suppose that could be touched up to be less obvious?

Maybe it was a mistake? Let me know... But it's too late.

The other more obvious insert damage is DINER
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Can anyone explain the smudgy black bits?
I'm not sure whether to leave that or try address it. I looked at the decal and it is slightly smaller like the rest plus the purple isn't a match. So if I did try use it I'd have to try cut it to pieces and try to keep the outlined DINER letters.
Is it worth it? Or just accept typical damage from this era? Or could their be better quality decals available?
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Advice was to clearcoat the stickers, however we were also advised to go with a PF overlay which Claire got me to buy (she'll be invoiced).

The next noticable playfield issue is raised inserts. This is my first experience of raised inserts... I assumed they'd sit up squarely but this one is like a smooth hill! If it wasn't irritating it would be satisfying.

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Our fellow Diner owner @Spandangler has many uses and apparently one suited for us is his deep throat clamp. Hopefully we can borrow this in the coming weeks and squish the inserts down.
Another pro to a playfield protector I suppose?

A quick inspection found an interesting fix for the diverter mech and a broken stand up target.

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Here's an overall photo of the state of DINER
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There was a lot of muck at the back of the cabinet and out of curiosity I thought I'd take the of out as I'd read the wire harness is long enough.

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We're wondering whether to strip it and clean up, apply some more decals if needed and get to work on replacing broken old parts or wait for the board to see if the game runs first.
The benefit of stripping may reveal broken parts we can then order.

I've ordered my first foam cleaner and Claire's ordered some new rubbers and a playfield protector.

All feedback and help appreciated 👍
 
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Taking everything off the bottom of a pf is an entirely different ballgame. Then the wiring harness. It's a whole other level to taking some ramps and posts off.

I did research into playfield protectors and most say the games don't play any different.
How would it be much different to a full pf mylar?

The only real difference I could find was you don't feel the ball rolling as much as without.

yeah maybe - you don't need to mylar the whole playfield though, just do the areas that need it. Every game I've played with a protector on has played terrible. but its yours/Claires game you can always take it off I suppose.

Neil.
 
To decal or not to decal?

I got a full set of insert decals for some of the ruined ones.

The customers and Diner decal matches the real thing unlike the decals that we found in the cab which were 5% off scale 🙄

So I'm tempted. If only to use my knife and take the DINER part off and only decal the customers.

What would you do?
They're not in bad condition but faded so it would brighten them up.

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Unfortunately DINER is going to take longer than expected. No idea how or why but an entire switch column isn't working.
The board was tested as part of Jims service but something must have happened since , while plugging things in?🤷 Or there's an issue on the playfield somewhere.

I've made a thread about it and ordered a logic probe in the hope I can diagnose it.
If it's a transistor or similar I can just about do it. An IC, well that terrifies me!

Sad thing is I was using my leftover LED supply to test out different colours and some of the inserts were looking beautiful!
Then while doing a switch test (once I'd sussed the sys11 service menu out) I noticed a load of switches weren't working.

Hopefully it'll be something easy to replace. 😓
 
Unfortunately DINER is going to take longer than expected. No idea how or why but an entire switch column isn't working.
The board was tested as part of Jims service but something must have happened since , while plugging things in?🤷 Or there's an issue on the playfield somewhere.

I've made a thread about it and ordered a logic probe in the hope I can diagnose it.
If it's a transistor or similar I can just about do it. An IC, well that terrifies me!

Sad thing is I was using my leftover LED supply to test out different colours and some of the inserts were looking beautiful!
Then while doing a switch test (once I'd sussed the sys11 service menu out) I noticed a load of switches weren't working.

Hopefully it'll be something easy to replace. 😓
The thing that springs to mind here is this column drives your pops and slings which are the most likely mechs for having a voltage short to the matrix. I’d check each mech careful especially the slingshots.

From the pics and video yesterday though all your coils, lamps and display work perfectly so count your blessings . 1 switch col to resolve isn’t that bad.

If you don’t see anything wrong I can swap the column driver for you but of course you’ll have to send it back here . It could be a unforced stress failure as there were 2 other sw cols dead when I repaired it (cols1&3)
 
In-between fixing Bk2k and Locomotion 🙄

I've started rebuilding Diner.

Only a few plastics needed replacing. Got 3 from Pinball Center and I can't say I'm pleased with the colour

Left is new
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I know Pinball Center can be hit or miss with plastics but I was pleased with the quality of the sling ones even though they're red rather than plum (but it works).

The other ones seem more out of place.

We only bought a few as can't afford a whole set and I think only Marco is reliable for quality?
 
In-between fixing Bk2k and Locomotion 🙄

I've started rebuilding Diner.

Only a few plastics needed replacing. Got 3 from Pinball Center and I can't say I'm pleased with the colour

Left is new
View attachment 164367

I know Pinball Center can be hit or miss with plastics but I was pleased with the quality of the sling ones even though they're red rather than plum (but it works).

The other ones seem more out of place.

We only bought a few as can't afford a whole set and I think only Marco is reliable for quality?
Looks like it still has the protector on it.
 
It looks to me like the difference between a screen print using spot colours and a modern 4 colour process print. You're never going to get the same vibrancy as spot colours unfortunately.
 
Good(?) Players condition DINER coming right up!

With my bad back and being off work for some reason I have some determination in me. I stayed up till 5am (like the old student days 😂) and reassembled DINER!
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I added a cool white led strip to try offset the yellowing on the cup (hot tip from @Dave Playman ) looks a bit out of place as the rest of the GI is still incandescent.. but give me time!

Also added a magnetic reed switch to the cup to replace the old switch, so hopefully you can stir without the switch adding friction 😁

it took 5 hours, probably because it's the first time I've reassembled an entire topside playfield. I did clean a few bits as I went. Got some rust off posts and a small polish (it'll do! I'm no super minter, or even minter).

Also two parts that I thought were identical, were not.
So I had to restrip some plastics to swap them 🙄

Also I couldn't find the tiny screws that join the ramps at the crossover and join the right ramp to the cup.
I eventually found 4 which is ok for now.

Then what do I find when tidying? A bag of brand new ramp screws😳🙄

When changing the coil for the diverter the coil stop fell apart (like a stern one)... Lucky I had a spare from rebuilding TOM's flippers..
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The fixed mpu is here, but awaiting till I'm more awake to put it in. A little nervous but I'm sure it'll be fine! Maybe by the evening @Lecari will be playing her DINER for the first time !
 

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@David_Vi let me turn Diner on last night 😍


There are still some teething issues to sort out (I don't know details, above my pay grade - I'm sure David will share details) but I am so excited that she's now playable!

Big thank you to David for all his hard work, I am a very lucky girl! But also to everyone who has helped him with parts, fixing things and answering questions - I'm told @myPinballs @bartron @AlanJ @Spandangler have especially been a big help with fixing Diner issues! And of course @Dave Playman for finding my Diner in the first place!

And now the fun of tweaking things and fixing little issues starts 😁
 
For god's sake why is the GI off in that photo. What now😳
Probably just the GI power connector on the Interconnect board.

But glad you are all up and running now with your original cpu/driver board :) To bring these old games back to life after being dead for awhile does take alittle time & patience. You will notice all the minor issues happen pretty quick after the game is back and running with lots of play, having been in storage for years unused, then after those are fixed 1 at a time, it will run trouble free for many years if used regularly. Classic project game issues
 
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Probably just the GI power connector on the Interconnect board.

But glad you are all up and running now with your original cpu/driver board :) To bring these old games back to life after being dead for awhile does take alittle time & patience. You will notice all the minor issues happen pretty quick after the game is back and running, then after those are fixed 1 at a time, it will run trouble free for many years if used regularly.

According to Claire it was on but the photo focused it out. Bizzare. I had a small panic!

Game seems to have a few gremlins. We got two high scores then after a reboot all the hstd showed as 00.

Lost another column but easily fixed thanks to your bits👍
One coil/flasher wasn't working, again a transistor fixed it.
Game seems to be struggling with being alive again 😆
 
Found this hack while looking for shorts.
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It's the switch that shows if the ramp is up or down.
I see why as I searched the part number and no UK shops provide it.
What's with me and unusual parts.

To be fair it works well, it's just that part of the switch with the diode on that hangs about that bothers me.


Also the right flipper button broke. Plastic must be old and they are those translucent red buttons. Maybe inferior quality?
Lucky I have a spare sitting about!
 
An just read your shop log. Great job. But then the trail stops. No updates?
 
Still awaiting to see if the zeroed score is fixed. Got all the LEDs in since.

I was thinking of you earlier actually, the playfield protector isn't ideal so in future I might try replace more decals and do the clearcoating of sections like you did on Creech but it scares me a little!

I don't know if it'll work as it's a pf that I believe never had clearcoat so to do small areas of clear and other areas bare pf sounds like it might be odd.
 
Still awaiting to see if the zeroed score is fixed. Got all the LEDs in since.

I was thinking of you earlier actually, the playfield protector isn't ideal so in future I might try replace more decals and do the clearcoating of sections like you did on Creech but it scares me a little!

I don't know if it'll work as it's a pf that I believe never had clearcoat so to do small areas of clear and other areas bare pf sounds like it might be odd.

So I would say give it a shot. If it looks naff you can always use a magic eraser to lightly remove the layer you've made.

Start with one coat and assess.

Or you could do a Paul and sand off the lot and a replacement hardtop!
 
if there is a hardtop available i’d do that

Don't believe there's one available yet.
Still the removing and sanding of the pf scares me a little. @Mfresh suggested it to me originally, maybe I'd consider it in future if one was available but I think I'd want someone experienced holding my hand 😆

There is that full pf overlay available but I hear mixed things about those.

I replaced most insert art that was looking dodgy with a decal except the center DINER and customers which I have a whole piece for. I only replaced the head of two or three customers using old decals that came with the game as they were really worn.
It looks a bit naff in that area to be honest.

It is tempting to remove the protector, put the big DINER/customers decal on and leave the protector off. Do decals get damaged by ball travel?

It feels like there's no middle ground, either get the whole pf cleared (I don't think it's worth it and it's just out of my experience level) or mylar every replaced insert decal, or put lots and lots of small areas of clear varnish over decals.

Or just ignore it and keep playing.
 
The ground braid from the cab to the backbox split, I'm not sure if it has been like this all along but I managed to use what was left and tighten it under the nut.

But it's come out so need a better solution... How do I repair a ground braid ? Ive lost about 8inches so if I put the backbox down it'll rip off from where I screwed it.

And I've lost the bit that had broken off.🙄

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The ground braid from the cab to the backbox split, I'm not sure if it has been like this all along but I managed to use what was left and tighten it under the nut.

But it's come out so need a better solution... How do I repair a ground braid ? Ive lost about 8inches so if I put the backbox down it'll rip off from where I screwed it.

And I've lost the bit that had broken off.🙄

View attachment 169775

Buy some new braid and replace the full amount back from a convenient point inside the bottom cab
 
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