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Sold Ghostbusters Pro £6350

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mufcmufc

Staff member
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
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2,576
Location
Midlands
Alias
Nik
Fully working, just cleaned and fresh rubbers installed. Flippers are strong, there are marks on the backbox art on one side but it comes with new decals (for both sides), the rest of the cabinet is very good if not mint.

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For those who like to know number of plays, I updated code without checking. Assume it’s had a couple more than it’s showing :rofl:

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….so, maybe it’s an idea for buyers to feedback on their buying experience on the sales thread. I’ll start.

Cabinet described as ‘very good, if not mint’
Rails have three very noticeable areas of wear with rust (see pics), two of these caused by missing grommets on back box - granted relatively small issues but more than enough to NOT describe the cab as above.

Scoop protector completely split (see photo) - definitely should have been mentioned.

Both flippers have missing parts for the EOS switch’s (see pics)

Slimer does not register hits at all - can register approx 50% of the time in test mode by slowly activating by hand. This is a version 1 slimer that was notorious for not registering hits, so much so that it was completely redesigned. On top of that the cable is rusty and badly frayed - there is no way this is ‘fully working’!

Right ramp diverted staying stuck out most of the time, looks like the diverter hitting the magnet over time has created a groove in the back of the diverted that is wedging onto the magnet - this I can fix but again, not ‘fully working’.

Its taken a few days to get a non satisfactory response from the seller, who now informs me he is away until the end of the month, and avoided responding to the Slimer and diverter issues (the Slimer one being the biggest problem as it’s over €200 for the new, working version)

So take this is you wish, judge for yourself, but I think it’s out of order.

Photos below & sellers response to my message too.
 
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Hi Andy,

Been away and had some personal issues to deal with, Am away again tomorrow morning and not back until 26th August. Rubber grommets have always been missing since the game was new, it was in the pictures and I didn't think to mention it. I hid nothing in the pictures and also didn't purposefully miss stuff out. I think I have some Stern siderails somewhere if the marks are too bad but I think they're Whitestar (don't know if they're the same) Scoop protector again has always been broken since I've had the game but has never bothered me so I obviously forgot to mention this in the ad even though it was pictured. I'll get a new one and send it to you. Seems really odd I would miss the leaf switch and arm, I'll send some out to you. Apologies

Nick


No further response to my PM’s or phone calls - just been left waiting 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
I took the top off my slimer housing and pulled the white ball outside of the box on top. Registers far more hits now
 
Did you pick up machine or get it picked up ?

Caveat Emptor springs to mind , if you don't have transport to pick the machine up then you hire a van , I have driven all over the UK to pick machines up that is the only way you can guarantee that what you see is what you get.

Photos hide a myriad of problems the only way to guarantee anything in this life is by picking it up yourself ..... if you can't do that then I guess how can you really moan if someone hides a fault, human nature that they will not show you the worst parts who was the seller ?

Just goes to show you also the ****e quality of new machines , how old is ghostbuster 2-3 yrs old and it had all of those faults , it either means its had a bloody hard life on site or its just plain ****e
 
Not so good, but it sounds like with the initial response hopefully seller will help you get things right but that may take some time unfortunately.

One thing I do not like to see on some for sale ads is when something is described as mint. When something is described as mint, for me there cannot be a single hairline mark on the item or the part/parts that is being described as mint condition. I have seen mint condition mentioned a few times on machines here, yet even in photos can see some marks on stuff.
 
I'd suggest that the wear that was possible to see in the sale pictures / was not, is totally commensurate with a c7.5 year old Stern pinball machine that has not had nor has been described as having a full refurb.
(In full or part)

A newbie might be inexperienced in that they may not think things could wear but someone having owned c20 pins and demonstrating knowledge of parts being redesigned should be / could have asked specific pre-sale questions.

Lets face it Stern are really not known for quality components, how many things do we all accept are poor quality from new - balls / coil stops for instance so its a safe bet that any machine of this age, if it's lucky enough to have a mech or two..... is going to suffer from worn mechs; I'd suspect they were never designed to last this long; ummmm how long is the Stern warranty again?

Perhaps give the seller a chance to do what they have already reasonably and politely offered to do, appreciate you feel it's a wait but many people do have holidays this time of year over these long school holidays
 
A newbie might be inexperienced in that they may not think things could wear but someone having owned c20 pins and demonstrating knowledge of parts being redesigned should be / could have asked specific pre-sale questions.
This argument works both ways - i.e. a very experienced seller should know to be explicit about photos of issues and more careful with the description.

I agree it's best to wait for the seller to respond and them both to sort this out though, as it seems like they are already trying to rectify some of the problems. Hopefully they see this and respond to the buyer before the end of the month though - let's face it, the internet works in holiday destinations too, so it's not a lot to expect.
 
What is good or mint condition is definitely subjective. I've had people describe things as mint and then see bubbling around a decal pressure area like the side rail, carriage bolt or leg area. Playfield ware, or ramp damage is another.

Its best to just see the pin in person and make your own decision on the condition. Photo's never tell the whole truth, they can miss (intentionally or not) key area's that you would otherwise be drawn to. I think I have some Stern rails @Andydn if you are after some. Let me know. Otherwise you could always powder coat?
 
One thing I do not like to see on some for sale ads is when something is described as mint. When something is described as mint, for me there cannot be a single hairline mark on the item or the part/parts that is being described as mint condition. I have seen mint condition mentioned a few times on machines here, yet even in photos can see some marks on stuff.
I've got to say, there's not a hope in heck I'd list a pin as 'mint' on here. I deal a lot in vintage pins where 'good nick' means 'it plays pretty well and there aren't too many mouse droppings'.

I've seen people buying modern Sterns complain about hairline scratches on the back of the backbox. That's something I'd never even notice, given the condition of vintage pins, but it makes it 'non-mint' to some where 'mint' means 'looks like I got it straight out of the box and have specialist equipment for getting it into position'. To be honest, I wouldn't even list the restoration I'm currently doing as 'mint' because I've fracked up the spray-on zinc coating on some of the internal components (put it on too thick) and I can see someone getting upset about that - even though it doesn't affect play and you can't see if unless you lift the playfield to have a good look.

In short, there are a handful of people who can confidently offer pins in 'mint' condition - high-end restorers and people who have no young kids, and keep their pins in a locked climate-controlled shed. Personally, I went to inspect my Godzilla just now (two years old) to see if it was 'mint' and, aside from the broken bridge plastic (now replaced with a bit of sculpted metal), there's peanut butter glued to the decals all around the flipper buttons. So, that certainly isn't mint...
 
I've got to say, there's not a hope in heck I'd list a pin as 'mint' on here. I deal a lot in vintage pins where 'good nick' means 'it plays pretty well and there aren't too many mouse droppings'.

I've seen people buying modern Sterns complain about hairline scratches on the back of the backbox. That's something I'd never even notice, given the condition of vintage pins, but it makes it 'non-mint' to some where 'mint' means 'looks like I got it straight out of the box and have specialist equipment for getting it into position'. To be honest, I wouldn't even list the restoration I'm currently doing as 'mint' because I've fracked up the spray-on zinc coating on some of the internal components (put it on too thick) and I can see someone getting upset about that - even though it doesn't affect play and you can't see if unless you lift the playfield to have a good look.

In short, there are a handful of people who can confidently offer pins in 'mint' condition - high-end restorers and people who have no young kids, and keep their pins in a locked climate-controlled shed. Personally, I went to inspect my Godzilla just now (two years old) to see if it was 'mint' and, aside from the broken bridge plastic (now replaced with a bit of sculpted metal), there's peanut butter glued to the decals all around the flipper buttons. So, that certainly isn't mint...
Very well said. New in box will also likely be not mint.

When describing condition of things I think it's best to break into certain areas you want to list the condition on, that's what I do when selling things. Also its best to list even every minor flaw just to be safe. Only high end restorations will be near mint when it comes to pins I think but even that can be very subjective.
 
I’ve mentioned it on here to get a discussion going and make people think again when selling & buying with regards to accurate descriptions.



What’s annoyed me is the seller not mentioning defects as they ‘didn’t bother him’ and also saying ‘they are in the photos’ (whilst this is true they were very hard to spot!) - both terrible excuses. On top of this, no phone call to sort it out, an offer of sending the cheapest parts (eos bits) sometime after the end of the month, maybe send me some rails (he’s not sure he’s even got the correct set) and then no mention of the biggest issue (not ‘fully working’ due to Slimer issue). But never mind, 6k to a well known member & moderator of this forum so that really gives us all hope 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
People told me I was too harsh in my description of my Getaway ad, and indeed it seems to have put people off as I didn't get much interest. As a result though, the next owner knew what they were getting and is really happy with it. (Because it really wasn't that bad.)

Lots of pins being advertised on here with incomplete and sometimes downright deceitful descriptions. To be fair, not everyone has the technical knowledge to find out all the flaws - some people don't even know how to lift the playfield. I'm talking in general, not making any comment on this particular sale.

One does build a reputation on here, and there are definitely some members I would not buy from, as well as some I would buy blindly from. The tricky bit is that buyer feedback is usually only obtained by word of mouth which makes it hard to navigate especially for new members.
 
People told me I was too harsh in my description of my Getaway ad, and indeed it seems to have put people off as I didn't get much interest. As a result though, the next owner knew what they were getting and is really happy with it. (Because it really wasn't that bad.)

I've personally found it difficult for that same reason. I was brutal in my description of my El PinBotto, in my opinion, and then had to slash the price (not sure how much was due to the general slowdown in sales, but it wasn't overpriced to start with).

Lots of pins being advertised on here with incomplete and sometimes downright deceitful descriptions. To be fair, not everyone has the technical knowledge to find out all the flaws - some people don't even know how to lift the playfield. I'm talking in general, not making any comment on this particular sale.

I think that's the problem. One of the flaws mentioned here is a frayed wire, but I'd say a lot of buyers of HUO modern Sterns probably don't spend time looking under the playfield. Certainly, when I get mods for modern Sterns, I now usually start the instructions about five pages in after 'how to switch off machine, remove lockdown bar, remove glass, remove balls, bring playfield forward, lift playfield'.

There's a 'transition point' (probably around 2000, in my experience) where you really have to expect the pin to have at least intermittent issues, which you can't detect by examining the pin on site or simply by physical condition (I've had faulty pins that are immaculate under the playfield and our Fish Tales is chugging along despite being literally caked in mildew and rust). I've only had one vintage pin (AFM) arrive in the house without developing a fault simply through being moved from one place to another. We've just fixed a fault on Fish Tales that developed as a result of moving it to another room, never mind between sites!

There's a point, when you get into the classics, where you're buying a pin in the hope that it actually switches on when it arrives, and it doesn't immediately release the magic smoke and trip the downstairs circuit breaker. Being able to play a game when it comes in is a bonus. The idea of 'mint' is laughable at that point. You're literally negotiating the price over exactly how actively wet, mouldy, rusty and disgusting it is. I've lifted the playfield to find living spiders in pinball machines (I'm guessing I pay extra for tarantulas living in there).

One does build a reputation on here, and there are definitely some members I would not buy from, as well as some I would buy blindly from. The tricky bit is that buyer feedback is usually only obtained by word of mouth which makes it hard to navigate especially for new members.

I think that's fair. I've had a repeat customer so I, personally, cross fingers, can't be that bad (although a pin I thought was in excellent condition was apparently filthy and smelt of cooking fat, which was a little distressing as I'd only cleaned the playfield a couple of weeks earlier. I've now learned that black rubbers, even new ones, filth up playfields very fast in play, and have developed a hatred of the things).
 
It's worth adding that 'comparison' is really important. Can you imagine how someone who paid actual money for a pin with this playfield (below) would describe the Godzilla with these scratches (also below. Now I've noticed them, I might prioritise some Stern side rails), compared with someone for whom that Godzilla was part of a line-up entirely made up of NIB Stern LEs?

That wouldn't be someone cheating or inaccurately describing. It's just completely different expectations!

I was playing that Alien Poker for a fair while before I took it apart. It played really quite nicely thanks to work @AlanJ had done on it. I'd describe it as 'player's condition' (because it was). I'd also happily describe my Godzilla as 'pretty much new' (because it is), but I can see someone who collects NIB Stern LEs and puts them in a man shed would be absolutely horrified by that much wear around the flipper button of a two-year-old pin.

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@VeeMonroe - the frayed wire I referred to isn’t under the playfield. It’s the one Slimer is attached to that registers the hits. Never said this buyer owns HUO pins either.
 
@VeeMonroe - the frayed wire I referred to isn’t under the playfield. It’s the one Slimer is attached to that registers the hits. Never said this buyer owns HUO pins either.
@Andydn Sorry, I thought it was on Picture 4, which is on the underside of the playfield. I’m not that familiar with this specific pin as I’ve only played it in a handful of paid-for locations - there’s not that many on public display.

Like others here, I was commenting generally about conditions listed in ads - not specifically about this pin, as we’re all going off photos commenting on this one 🙂 I just realise, having seen various people’s collections, both playing in league and otherwise, that expectations can differ a lot without any deceit being intended 🙂
 
@VeeMonroe - the frayed wire I referred to isn’t under the playfield. It’s the one Slimer is attached to that registers the hits. Never said this buyer owns HUO pins either.

If the wire is badly frayed and knackered then that's one thing. If the issue is that slimer isn't registering hits every time, then that was an issue from factory tbf
 
From memory when I had GB it was a known fault that the slimer mech wouldn’t register hits every time. The way I fixed it was to take the top of the mech off, realign the the wire and to wrap a tiny bit of tin foil around the the top of the wire before putting the top back on. It did the trick and I never had a problem with it after many years.
 
For the price & considering age of it, the machine seems in the sort of condition I would expect - a few minor cosmetics, odd bit of damage, a couple of flipper issues (flippers being the main moving part, so i expect issues), diverted needs adjusting?, and a switch that doesn't work too well, but is a known issue with this game. rails are not cab imho. the cab was described, the rails weren’t but can see the wear in the pics.

I'd have happily accepted these and just got on with sorting it out myself, if I'd bought unseen in person.

if I'd seen it in person and had managed to notice all those, I'd have negotiated a bit off the asking £.

If this sort of minor stuff bother you, go view in person, or if not possible get all the pics you need and ask all the questions up front.
 
From memory when I had GB it was a known fault that the slimer mech wouldn’t register hits every time. The way I fixed it was to take the top of the mech off, realign the the wire and to wrap a tiny bit of tin foil around the the top of the wire before putting the top back on. It did the trick and I never had a problem with it after many years.
And its always worked great since I've owned it too 👍🏻
 
I agree with the view that buying unseen reduces your options for coming to the seller afterwards. A couple of years back I bought a no fear from a well known seller on this forum. It had apparently just been serviced. When I got hold of it, I discovered that the bracket holding one of the kick out coils was missing and had been replaced with cable ties around the coil. Needless to say it was only kicking the ball out once every 5 attempts. There were other parts missing like the long screw supporting one of the ramps. It was running the original rom. Some GI lights were out.
I don't think I even considered going back to the seller. I hadn't seen the game in the flesh. Martin delivered it. I took it that this was the pitfalls with buying blind. I also think that a detailed inspection by me would probably have completely failed to notice these problems as I am no expert. In the end I took great pleasure in fixing those niggles. It is so nice to find a missing part on the Internet, buy it, fit it and the machine is back to what it was meant to be. I love it nearly as much as playing.
 
Buying 'unseen' shouldn't be used as a get out of jail free card for the seller, and withholding information is as bad as lying.

Describe the Pin you are selling as you would like it to be described if you were buying, it isn't that difficult 🤷‍♂️.

The seller looks like he wants to make amends so hopefully it gets sorted out satisfactorily.
 
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I bought my SM from Nick, straight forward purchase, no nonsense, loads of pictures sent to me and very honestly described.

Chris.
 
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