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Data East JP - Multiple coils now not working. Bad fuse?

Can you move the mechanism freely by hand with the machine switched off? The coil might have melted the sleeve and be seized.

Shame you can’t see the test menu as I would suggest testing every switch in the trough as one switch not working in there and the game won’t start. Probably not though as the coil probably wouldn’t be getting hot.
 
Can you move the mechanism freely by hand with the machine switched off? The coil might have melted the sleeve and be seized.

Shame you can’t see the test menu as I would suggest testing every switch in the trough as one switch not working in there and the game won’t start. Probably not though as the coil probably wouldn’t be getting hot.

Yes it moves freely and electrical resistance seems about where it should be. I turned it off when it was a bit warm but you could touch it.

I'm pretty sure the MPU board is causing the faults here. The board repair is a bit beyond my limits so either looking at a repair or new board. It looks a bit black just in that corner of the board and potentially some trace damage/shorts.

The game does start when we hit the start button (after adding a credit) although still seems a bit off with the sound (as in don't think it's going into skill shot) random ball search etc.

Probably best keeping machine off but I've tried metering across bits of the board. Connections to MPU are all good and we labelled all connectors.
 
I know this is another silly question but the ribbon cable etc was in correctly for the dmd? Mypinballs on here has fixed my boards in the past.
 
I know this is another silly question but the ribbon cable etc was in correctly for the dmd? Mypinballs on here has fixed my boards in the past.

It actually wasn't (misaligned by one pin row) but it's correct now and the same problem.

I think I'll get a refurbed MPU and either sell my damaged board or use it as a doner board or for soldering practice 😂

Thanks for all the help of you and others on the forum. We are annoyed it doesn't work but it's actually keeping us occupied (and strangely no arguements between the Mrs and I whilst we're fixing)
 
Lol. Pinball fixing/restoration is all about accidentally dropping screws/nuts/bulbs and never seeing them again and accidentally burning things with a soldering iron. Most of all lots of swearing.
 
Lol. Pinball fixing/restoration is all about accidentally dropping screws/nuts/bulbs and never seeing them again and accidentally burning things with a soldering iron. Most of all lots of swearing.

I had an Addams Family back in the day for a couple of years with a totally worn playfield and cabinet and other than a few lamps, flipper rubbers and springs never put a foot wrong. They were only about £1100 at the time 😀

Got the poor man's Addams now and a successful VUK repair and then a week later we rebuild the flippers, knock the trough lock connector and we connect it back again backwards and this happens.

Still, we enjoy it, we can afford to have made this mistake, it's a learning situation. I think board replacement/repair is the way forward.

Before we connect the new board does 8 ohms for that coil sound right? Looks it to me but I really don't want to be blowing the new board as well.

To be fair before I connected the old MPU back I did utter "I don't think this is going to work" which is never a vote of confidence is it 😀
 
Thank you. I intend to re-measure anyway as it got a bit warm (although no warmer than the flipper coils get during chaos)

Have a good evening.
 
Thank you. I intend to re-measure anyway as it got a bit warm (although no warmer than the flipper coils get during chaos)

Have a good evening.

Hi - I'm getting 3.7 for the coil that kicks the ball into shooter lane. For comparison just in case - I'm getting 4.0 for for right lower flipper coil.
 
Hi - I'm getting 3.7 for the coil that kicks the ball into shooter lane. For comparison just in case - I'm getting 4.0 for for right lower flipper coil.

Thanks for checking those.

This is the coil that releases it into the VUK.
It's the one that sits underneath the apron and should have its terminals covered in insulating tape as it's very close to a mounting screw.

At least 8 ohms seems sane for the coil. The board has other problems I think but I'm happy with what I've been quoted for in terms of repair or refurbished board.

Just hope nothing else wrong with the machine 😀
 
Thanks for checking those.

This is the coil that releases it into the VUK.
It's the one that sits underneath the apron and should have its terminals covered in insulating tape as it's very close to a mounting screw.

At least 8 ohms seems sane for the coil. The board has other problems I think but I'm happy with what I've been quoted for in terms of repair or refurbished board.

Just hope nothing else wrong with the machine 😀
Yes - apologies from underneath I mixed them up. The equivalent coil on mine is 9.3 so not really far away..

Good luck with it.
 
Yes - apologies from underneath I mixed them up. The equivalent coil on mine is 9.3 so not really far away..

Good luck with it.
Yeah so pretty sure my coil is in spec and is instead an underlying MPU fault.

Thanks for checking. I found a coil chart that seems to match your findings too.
 
Hi All,

Thanks for your help. This game is now up and running and playing great again. It turned out the MPU board was giving us the problems. Got a repaired board from @Nevin with v6 roms.

Only remaining issue is during lamp test the GI at the top of the playfield such as the one illuminating T Rex doesn't work. These were what looked like arching with the old board may have blown the LEDs? Anything else I should check? Are those on a common pin on the GI connector or something? All other GI and switches etc work.

Thanks again all. We are relieved that it's back up and running.
 

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Just updating this for future reference. The missing Missing GI was pretty much as expected. Bad connection to the playfield power board.

Redid that connection and it's all lit up again.
 
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