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Data East JP - Multiple coils now not working. Bad fuse?

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lozzauk

Registered
Joined
Aug 28, 2023
Messages
65
Location
UK
Hi All,

Our Data East Jurrasic Park has become poorly. We replaced the EOS and coil stops. Flippers feel fantastic now but all is not well.

Did the lower right flipper and tested game and all was fine, then left flipper and noticed the ball wasn't getting kicked out into play from the ball trough.

Can't see that we've shorted anything doing this. All cables as before etc.

Diagnosed this to the coil that releases the ball from the ball trough onto the VUK. Put game into diagnostics and tests and a load of coils don't work (turbo etc..)

Is there a fuse common to those? I've attached a video of the coil tests.

Fuses look ok from what I can tell. Will test continuity. Only thing I did spot is one of the connectors in the back box is warm and crusty (on PPB) What is this used for?

Much appreciated in advance.
 

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The schematics etc for the power board don't seem the best but we found this.

Seems everything that has gone is on the same power line. Is this one of 34v circuits? F5 maybe on power supply board?

The trough lockout we think we caused a dead short (wasn't connected properly and we knocked the connector against some metal work) Obviously if fuse has blown it's hopefully done its job and we'll replace fuse.

Any other thoughts?
 

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There are also fuses on the left hand side inside the cabinet unlike WMS games. I lost all the solenoids and that was down to the fuse clips on the cabinet boards
 
Thanks all. We are having a beer this evening so will take a look once we've slept.

I looked at that tech chart and think it's probably F5 on the main power board? Although it's not 100% clear it's definitely a 36v circuit.

Checked all wiring and my dodgy soldering from today and no shorts or damaged wiring loom. We did definitely knock the trough lockout connector and think we caused a short in that which we have since corrected so will check the fuses tomorrow.

Will let you know. We've got this game set at 6.7 degrees and it's so quick and fun on a clean waxed playfield.

Have a good evening.
 
johnwhitfield said:
There are also fuses on the left hand side inside the cabinet unlike WMS games. I lost all the solenoids and that was down to the fuse clips on the cabinet boards
Click to expand...
Are there fuses other than on the flipper board?

All fuses I could find visually looked ok but I'll have to meter them out.
 
And you need to check the 8a sb fuse in he backbox near the big blue capacitors lefthand side below the psb as that also serves power for the 34v solenoids. Its one of the individual fuses usually with a grey coloured holder and the are just screwed to the metal backbox plate.
 
Thanks. Will test today. Went into the individual coil tests. All flashers work. All coils work except those in the attached image.

I'll check the fuses with a meter. They look ok visually but doesn't mean they are of course.

Are these all different transistors so unlikely to be that is the issue here or is it possible that blew a fuse in the first place?
 

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lozzauk said:
Thanks. Will test today. Went into the individual coil tests. All flashers work. All coils work except those in the attached image.

I'll check the fuses with a meter. They look ok visually but doesn't mean they are of course.

Are these all different transistors so unlikely to be that is the issue here or is it possible that blew a fuse in the first place?
Click to expand...
going off memory but isn't like a system 11 with an ac relay.? if those flashers are on the a side and the offending coils are on the c side then the relay is at fault.
 
Found a bad fuse. F5 on the power board (4a SB) Reads infinite resistance out of the fuse holder. Looks ok but obviously isn't (see attached).

In the holder it read very high resistance.

Does this seem like the offending fuse? It is for one of the 34v solenoid circuits (maybe the other is for the flashers?)

The PDF manual is difficult to read and digest.

All other fuses read ok (0 or 1 ohm)
 

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It's the 34v solenoids you are having problems with so yes that is the problem. You probably have a short on playfield but you mentioned that you found a loose wire and fixed it so maybe that was the issue. Try a new fuse. 8a slow blow. If it blows you need to find the short.
 
Asiapinball said:
Tech chart says both f5 and f6 on psu are 5a slow blow. Not 4a slow blow.
Click to expand...
I noticed that (and manual also also says 5a) but board and existing fuse both marked with 4a.

Nothing like inconsistent documentation to add to a bit of confusion.
 
Asiapinball said:
It's the 34v solenoids you are having problems with so yes that is the problem. You probably have a short on playfield but you mentioned that you found a loose wire and fixed it so maybe that was the issue. Try a new fuse. 8a slow blow. If it blows you need to find the short.
Click to expand...
Over 1000ohms between the fuse terminals so don't think there's a dead short. We definitely caused one at one stage so was relieved to find the fuse blown tbh.

Board and existing fuse is 4a slow blow. We'll replace.
 
Sven Normansson said:
going off memory but isn't like a system 11 with an ac relay.? if those flashers are on the a side and the offending coils are on the c side then the relay is at fault.
Click to expand...
It is but the video showed the 25v solenoids working on both sides of relay. The issue here is with the 34v special solenoids which are nor on relay
 
Asiapinball said:
It's the 34v solenoids you are having problems with so yes that is the problem. You probably have a short on playfield but you mentioned that you found a loose wire and fixed it so maybe that was the issue. Try a new fuse. 8a slow blow. If it blows you need to find the short.
Click to expand...
Sorry thus should have said 5a as per tech chart not 8a.
 
Asiapinball said:
Sorry thus should have said 5a as per tech chart not 8a.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I agree all documentation says 5a but confusingly existing is definitely 4a and board is marked with 4a too. Not that there's much difference.

It looks like it's not been touched too so suspect that it hasn't blown in error.

We are going to replace with 4a but will probably be next Saturday. Thanks for all your assistance - will update the thread on how it goes.
 
For what it’s worth my JP boards didn’t match the manual either and I’m pretty sure they were factory. I’ve been running the machine on Xpin boards for a while now that I had spare.
 
Hi again,

Not had chance to repair this yet but I had a couple of minutes today so decided to test transistor Q23. It is shorted (and looks gooey too) all other transistors on fuse are good.

I'm going to replace transistor and the diode in the trough eject (haven't tested it yet but cheap enough to just replace as probably cooked it)

Anything else I need to check/replace before the fuse?
 

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If the transistor is blown then it's likely the coil has a well, check for it being shorted and replace if it has before powering up again.
 
Moonraker said:
If the transistor is blown then it's likely the coil has a well, check for it being shorted and replace if it has before powering up again.
Click to expand...

Thanks. The coil itself is good. What happened is we connected it backwards (stupid quick connector under playfield got knocked and rushing to play after the flipper work) so the power went through the diode rather than the coil. It never got stuck on at least so didn't burn up.

You'd think it would be keyed but lesson definitely learnt 😊
 

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Hi again,

Finally got round to attempting to repair this beast. I'm at the point where I'm a bit stumped if I'm honest.

Replaced transistor and fuse. Both of which had blown. Other coils on that fuse now work.

Cut one leg on the diode across the trough lockout coil and measured. Amazingly the diode survived.

Measured coil resistance. Around 8 ohms. Is that about right for that coil?

Game boots and enters attract. The ball trough release doesn't work and coil gets hot. I don't think the coil fired but unplugged quickly and booted game with coil disconnected. There was no short from ground across transistor like before but obviously it's still not right. I wonder if it's tracking across the board instead? Although transistor did get warm.

Furthermore the game now boots according to the sound and enters attract (we have it on coin op for giggles but it does start when we insert coins) but we just have pin2dmd stuck on the display.

The board definitely didn't seem very clean and possibly a bit burnt around where the transistor was (and on the other side when the transistor was removed when I cut the legs off the old transistor) Is it possible the MPU is damaged and therefore needs to be replaced or repaired? Any recommendations for a board repairer?

Pressing the coin door switches we can hear it going into diagnostics but obviously no display.

Sucks a little bit but we did have expectations of running into the odd issue here and there.

Thanks again
 

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