Ia the target coil sticking as in locking on through power, or is it mechanically sticking through miss alignment ?
The schematic shows that as being the Orb drop target reset coil. Is that correct ?
Does it lock on immediately there is power or a second or two after. I ask as if one of the drop target switches is not set correctly the game may not think the targets have reset and keep the coil activated.
Does the locked coil do anything if you press the start button ?
Yes the orbs target is correct.
It locks instantly as it's turned on. I've not left it on long enough for the game to finish booting to try pressing the start button incase the coil burns out. I'm not sure how long that takes but didn't want to risk it.
No cable in j1 pin 3Good point. Have you got a wire in J1 pin 3 on the Sol driver board
I replaced q2 again today so shouldn't be that. I've ordered A replacement u1 IC can't remember it's name 3081 or something like that so will see if that helps when it arrives and I'll look over the targets like you sugges. ThanksJust trying to get my head around the schematic on IPDB. One page says one thing, other another.
My knowledge is limited but I guess as you did the Q2 must be dodgy.
If it was me and I had spares and Q2 is the same as the others I would swap it over with one of the others like a sling shot to test it.
Also make sure that nothing on the reset coil is touching the body of the drop target chassis and that all drop target switches are seated and opening like they should.
Then check that the drop target mechanism is not pinching any cables or ground braid and that the two wires from the coil don't have any shorts and go to their correct sockets.
Sorry I could not be more specific.
Try with the 'say it again' pcb unplugged.
There are a number of inconsistencies regarding the manual and actual wiring (specifically relating to the orbs target reset solenoid and sound system).
Check your other bits haven't failed again first though.
good luck
It has 2 lugs one diodeHow many solder lugs are there on the reset coil and how many diodes?
All my Packman ones are 3 lug coils with two diodes. One is across the coil, the other is in-line with the connection from the Sol driver board.
hmm, there's a few things that could keep blowing Q2 ...
1) J2 pin 4 sol drive shorted to ground - coil always on / Q2 unharmed
2) J2 pin 4 sol drive shorted to 43DC - coil never on / Q2 fails immediately
3) diode across orb sol coil open cct. or not fitted - Q2 likely fails first time coil switches off'
.. check wiring at solenoid and test diode
4) sol drive Q2 ok but faulty U2/R57/U1 - coil always on / Q2 overheats and fails
.. lift either end of CR2 - this will stop Q2 being turned on
Q2 doesn't keep blowing Q3 did but I've sorted that now. The coil that was connected to q3 had been wired the wrong way round.
I'm thinking it's a broken u1 (maybe Q3 coil being wired the wrong way has blown it?) Pins 2 and 3 which I believe q2 connects to both read .2 but u3 and u4 pin 3 reads .9 and pin 2 .2
Would both pins reading low make the coil stick on?
Yeah that's what I've done, it gets very interesting when you knock all orbs targets down and it keeps registering so you constantly have 5 balls in play. ,I dont know about the finer workings of the transistors and IC's yet as I have not got to that stage on my build. Sorry.
If you are bored and up for it you can pull the wire out of the connector J2 Pin 4 (if that was the one for the coil that locks on) and see if anything changes. If the coil still locks on you have a short somewhere, if it does not you can assume the issue is on the board.
Just lifted a leg of CR2 like you suggested and NO coil fire! I've got a u1 ordered so hopefully we will be sorted when that's changed.Oh I thought Q2 was a repeat offender as you'd previously mentioned that it had gone high and that you had replaced it again and the diode.
It is looking like you,ve probably nailed it as being U1, lifting either leg of CR2 would pretty much confirm it