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CENTAUR II won't boot

Has it even got the sia in it ? I think it was a separate board to hot stripped out and sold to Electric guitarists.

I have the @myPinballs board. It does the job nicely. Essential to have a reverb board in a centaur imho.
 
Blake7 said:
Yeah it's got the Sia installed it's just not doing much.

What's the @myPinballs board? Is it a strait replacement for the sia?
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Centaur 2 didn't come with a say it again/echo board. It was costed out.

I make new Squawk & Talk sound boards (£170 plus postage) plus new Echo daughter boards (£40 plus postage)

The echo board can also be used with original sound boards with a couple of minor adjustments. A few people here have used the echo boards to fix broken originals as well as replacing broken original sound boards.

Let me know

see here for my full product page : http://mypinballs.co.uk/electronics/store.jsp
 
Hi @myPinballs

Are you able to give me some information on how the echo board would connect to the original squawk and talk board please?

If it's easy enough I'll order one

Thanks
 
Blake7 said:
Hi @myPinballs

Are you able to give me some information on how the echo board would connect to the original squawk and talk board please?

If it's easy enough I'll order one

Thanks
Click to expand...

My echo board plugs onto sound board j2. You need to connect a 5v supply wire (tap) from sound board and change the main 12v filter cap for a more modern smaller one (included)

Quick and easy job
 
If your SIA is toast I think it's a no-brainer to get the mypinballs substitute even if minor adjustment is needed.

Only other options are to source a working original and that's like finding a golden egg. Or to make your own.

Whilst the parts may be cheaper you will need to etch your own board, assemble, test and trouble shoot. This really appeals to me but I'm strange like that.

£40 for that killer unique sound is well worth it given the nature of this beast.
 
Moonbus said:
If your SIA is toast I think it's a no-brainer to get the mypinballs substitute even if minor adjustment is needed.

Only other options are to source a working original and that's like finding a golden egg. Or to make your own.

Whilst the parts may be cheaper you will need to etch your own board, assemble, test and trouble shoot. This really appeals to me but I'm strange like that.

£40 for that killer unique sound is well worth it given the nature of this beast.
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I put one of these in my Centaur... not too shabby for about a tenner :thumbs:

http://www.velleman.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p109.html

mk182.jpg
 
Well, my board look alike this. Plug onto J2 of the original sound board or my new design

sound-effects-board_installed1.jpg

Video of it adding effects to elektra, as they can be used for other s&t games to



Ruk said:
I put one of these in my Centaur... not too shabby for about a tenner :thumbs:
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Yeah cheap. I'll never be able to compete with that thing, and i wouldn't want to. No idea how they can sell that for under £10. That would require custom cabling and power adding to plus mounting to the metal door on centaur 2
 
myPinballs said:
Centaur 2 didn't come with a say it again/echo board. It was costed out.
Click to expand...

That's odd, my Centaur II had one.

Blake, it may be worth trying the set-up procedure for the reverb board. The board has two adjustment controls, 'Bias' and 'Echo', AIR. The set-up requires some test points to be temporarily linked, in order to generate a test signal. With Echo turned fully Off, the Bias is adjusted to produce a maximum reading when measuring at another point, after which the Echo can be set to personal preference. The details are in some editions of the Bally service manual.
 
astyy said:
Can you run the various versions of machine software, the custom home ROMs & wot not?
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No. You're stuck with a single version of the ROM for each game. My ALLTEK came with MR & MRS PAC-MAN and I'm convinced it's faulty as it won't open/close the diverter gate in the left outlane. I've since swapped it into GOLD BALL as I've been having intermittent problems with the original AS-2518-35 MPU and now I have 2 new problems not present before: a set of 6 lamps (3 on backglass and 3 on playfield) pulse when lit, and the gold ball out-hole gate no longer closes after the gold ball drains. I think this is the same issue as the diverter on PAC-MAN as it's a similar push-pull coil double coil arrangement and likely to be the same higher coil circuit numbers.

I'll be sticking with original -35 MPUs as I like to keep things original plus I like a challenge ;) But, specifically for GOLD BALL, VECTOR and MR & MRS PAC-MAN, I want the ability to switch between original and custom ROMs (I have a cunning dual ROM modification I've been prototyping).

Double thumbs-up :thumbs::thumbs: for @myPinballs replacement boards. His stuff is top-notch and he's a clever bloke doing good stuff for the world of pinball.
 
Nedreud said:
I'll be sticking with original -35 MPUs as I like to keep things original plus I like a challenge ;) But, specifically for GOLD BALL, VECTOR and MR & MRS PAC-MAN, I want the ability to switch between original and custom ROMs (I have a cunning dual ROM modification I've been prototyping).
Click to expand...

Now this sounds cool. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with :thumbs:

How about utilising the start button on power up to auto select one of the rom banks? i.e in for custom, out for stock :)
 
I have surplus arcade cab switch mode supplies if you can cover the postage. bizarrely my friend Jon uses a JPM fruit machine tranny as the source as built to last. (unlike the rest of the machine!)
 
Apologies up front for derailing this thread a little bit but....

@Nedreud

I To have a Alltek in my Mr & Mrs Pacman but my diverter is working perfectly. Does yours work in test mode or not ?
 
So an update, I've been quiet while Ive been waiting for parts. Today I received parts to try and repair the mpu and new capacitors for the sqwark and talk board.

I replaced the parts that came with the mpu battery damage repair kit and a new ram chip but was still unable to get anymore than 2 flashes so I've gave up on this and ordered an alltek mpu

Replaced the capacitors on the s&t fine and have even got the 'say it again' working partially although it does sound like it hasn't got as much reverb as others.

The alltek mpu should be arriving tomorrow, to set this up do i just set the jumpers to the same positions as my current board or is there more to it than that?
 
yes put your dipswitches the same,if that's how you want the game(3 or 5 ball,specials etc.etc.....),the altek has another set of dipswitches for whatever game it's set for,the list will be in the altek pcb manual
 
Got the alltek mpu in now the game boots If I put money in the credits add but I can't launch a ball and if I do put a ball in the play field nothing fires but points register? :(
 
As @stevebm1 said, there are 4 banks of 8 DIP switches just like on the original Bally MPU. Set these according to the manual for your game. The ALLTEK also has an extra bank of 8 DIP switches (Dual In-line Package, in case you were wondering...) marked GAME SELECT SWITCH that controls which ROM, i.e., game you want, and whether you want it in FREEPLAY mode (not supported for some games). It's also used for diagnostic and memory clear functions.

Like the original -35 MPU it's go the SELF TEST LED that does the usual flashes, but it's also got 2 extra LEDs. The +5V D1 green LED shows that the ALLTEK is getting its +5VDC power. The red D17 OVER V LED indicates that there is an over-voltage condition on the +12V that supplies the SOLENOID/REGULATOR board that is used to generate the +5VDC.

I've got an ALLTEK Revision K in my GOLD BALL if you need any help:

upload_2017-8-18_9-50-7.png
 
Got 4 balls in the underneath chamber and one in the normal bit. The fuse has gone on the under side of the playfield so I guess thats not going to help. Do you know what size that is off the top of your head it's 2 worn to see?
 
Blake7 said:
Got the alltek mpu in now the game boots If I put money in the credits add but I can't launch a ball and if I do put a ball in the play field nothing fires but points register? :(
Click to expand...
Have you checked the under-playfield fuse? This protects the +43VDC that powers the solenoids (coils) on the playfield. Mind you... I think if it's blown then the +43VDC wouldn't make it to the ALLTEK either and you wouldn't be getting your 8th flash.

You can test the solenoids manually to confirm that power, wiring and connectors are all good. To do this connect a short (30-40cm) piece of insulated wire to a ground point in the backbox near the SOLENOID/REGULATOR board (or clip to the GND test point on the board itself) and momentarily touch the metal tabs on the top of each of the big "Q" transistors on the bottom edge of the board (marked 3 in the image below). This grounds the circuit and causes the coil to fire. DO NOT touch for any longer than an instant otherwise you risk overheating the coil. Also, BEWARE the area marked "1" as this is the HIGH VOLTAGE regulator for the displays and generates +190VDC that will kick your butt if touched! This area is supposed to be covered with a sheet of perspex to prevent accidental contact. If yours is missing get yourself some 1-2mm Makrolon from eBay and cut to size. Also note that the big capacitor in this section can take a couple of minutes to drain after the power is removed, so watch out even after you switch the game off.

Refer to the schematic (page 14 of http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/477/Bally_1983_Centaur_II_Schematics.pdf) to find out which coil each Q transistor is supposed to be driving. If none of the coils work you've got bigger problems, but if only one or two are dead, then first check wiring and connectors, potentially re-pinning the connector (the coils themselves could be toast too, of course, so check the coil diode is good and the coil resistance is ok, something like 10-12 Ohms for a pop bumper AN-26-1200 - see Coil Resistance Chart https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html). Next check the header pins on the board itself, they are notorious for dry joints. If you are confident the wiring/hardware is good you can test the Q transistor and associated components following this guide: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index3.htm#driver. If you have to replace a Q transistor you can substitute TIP102 for the documented SE9302, and it's also worth replacing the associated CR diode (1N4004) and 330R 1/2 Watt resistor.

upload_2017-8-18_10-54-37.png
 
Blake7 said:
Have done blown again
Click to expand...

For CENTAUR II the underplayfield fuse is a 1 Amp 3AG Slow-Blow. 3AG is a US size equating to 1 1/4" length (32mm) and 1/4" diameter (6.35mm). You can get these from Maplin, code GL91Y, £3.49 for pack of ten: https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1a-time-delay-glass-31mm-fuse-10-pack-gl91y

If this fuse blows every time you switch the game on (or very soon after starting play) then you've most likely got a fault/short on the playfield, commonly a dead coil or coil diode, or a loose wire shorting out. Sometimes even a cable caught/crushed by moving the playfield up and down.

Again, from http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index3.htm#driver:

The Over-Looked Under-Playfield Solenoid Fuse.
Often your Bally game will boot fine and start a game. The flippers work, but no other solenoids on the playfield work. This can often be caused by a blown under-the-playfield solenoid fuse.

If you run the solenoid diagnostic test and the coin lock-out coils, the flipper relay, and the knocker all work, and nothing else works, a dead under the playfield fuse could be the problem. Since the game boots OK, we know the +43 volt fuse on the rectifier board is OK (if this fuse was blown the MPU board won't "flash" the seventh time).

The under the playfield solenoid fuse is usually located on the right hand side by the flippers. Usually it's a 1 amp slo-blo fuse. If this fuse keeps blowing, you have a solenoid problem on the playfield somewhere. This can be caused by a shorted coil, a bad coil diode, or a broken (and shorted) coil wire. A shorted and locked on driver transistor is probably NOT your problem.

If the playfield fuse keeps blowing, there is another procedure you can try to isolate the problem as a last resort. Turn the game off and disconnect the "pull down" wire from EVERY coil under the playfield. The pull down wire is the single wire on each coil, and connects to the NON-banded side of the coil's diode (the power side connects to the banded side of the diode's coil lug). Then power the game on (the fuse should not blow!). Now re-connect each wire to its respective coil. When the fuse blows, you've found your problem coil/diode.​
 
Nedreud said:
For CENTAUR II the underplayfield fuse is a 1 Amp 3AG Slow-Blow. 3AG is a US size equating to 1 1/4" length (32mm) and 1/4" diameter (6.35mm). You can get these from Maplin, code GL91Y, £3.49 for pack of ten: https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1a-time-delay-glass-31mm-fuse-10-pack-gl91y

If this fuse blows every time you switch the game on (or very soon after starting play) then you've most likely got a fault/short on the playfield, commonly a dead coil or coil diode, or a loose wire shorting out. Sometimes even a cable caught/crushed by moving the playfield up and down.

Again, from http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index3.htm#driver:

The Over-Looked Under-Playfield Solenoid Fuse.
Often your Bally game will boot fine and start a game. The flippers work, but no other solenoids on the playfield work. This can often be caused by a blown under-the-playfield solenoid fuse.

If you run the solenoid diagnostic test and the coin lock-out coils, the flipper relay, and the knocker all work, and nothing else works, a dead under the playfield fuse could be the problem. Since the game boots OK, we know the +43 volt fuse on the rectifier board is OK (if this fuse was blown the MPU board won't "flash" the seventh time).

The under the playfield solenoid fuse is usually located on the right hand side by the flippers. Usually it's a 1 amp slo-blo fuse. If this fuse keeps blowing, you have a solenoid problem on the playfield somewhere. This can be caused by a shorted coil, a bad coil diode, or a broken (and shorted) coil wire. A shorted and locked on driver transistor is probably NOT your problem.

If the playfield fuse keeps blowing, there is another procedure you can try to isolate the problem as a last resort. Turn the game off and disconnect the "pull down" wire from EVERY coil under the playfield. The pull down wire is the single wire on each coil, and connects to the NON-banded side of the coil's diode (the power side connects to the banded side of the diode's coil lug). Then power the game on (the fuse should not blow!). Now re-connect each wire to its respective coil. When the fuse blows, you've found your problem coil/diode.​
Click to expand...
Thanks it was a coil doh! At least buy time I get it up and running I'll pretty much now how to fix it all lol guess I'll get to ordering more parts, I'll get to play my first game one day soon hopefully.

I've also noticed that the music isn't playing so need to look into that if you have any ideas?

Thanks again amazing help from everyone as usual
 
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