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CENTAUR II won't boot

Ia the target coil sticking as in locking on through power, or is it mechanically sticking through miss alignment ?
 
I've just been testing the u1, am I correct in thinking q2 is connected to legs 2 and 3? I've checked those 2 and they are both reading .2 when from what I'm reading one should be .9. on u3 and u4 leg 2 reads .2 and 3 reads .9.
 
just so I am sure what I am looking at. What connector and what pin does this coil go to on the Sol Driver board ?
 
The schematic shows that as being the Orb drop target reset coil. Is that correct ?
Does it lock on immediately there is power or a second or two after. I ask as if one of the drop target switches is not set correctly the game may not think the targets have reset and keep the coil activated.

Does the locked coil do anything if you press the start button ?
 
Moonbus said:
The schematic shows that as being the Orb drop target reset coil. Is that correct ?
Does it lock on immediately there is power or a second or two after. I ask as if one of the drop target switches is not set correctly the game may not think the targets have reset and keep the coil activated.

Does the locked coil do anything if you press the start button ?
Click to expand...

Yes the orbs target is correct.

It locks instantly as it's turned on. I've not left it on long enough for the game to finish booting to try pressing the start button incase the coil burns out. I'm not sure how long that takes but didn't want to risk it.
 
Blake7 said:
Yes the orbs target is correct.

It locks instantly as it's turned on. I've not left it on long enough for the game to finish booting to try pressing the start button incase the coil burns out. I'm not sure how long that takes but didn't want to risk it.
Click to expand...

Good point. Have you got a wire in J1 pin 3 on the Sol driver board
 
Just trying to get my head around the schematic on IPDB. One page says one thing, other another.

My knowledge is limited but I guess as you did the Q2 must be dodgy.

If it was me and I had spares and Q2 is the same as the others I would swap it over with one of the others like a sling shot to test it.

Also make sure that nothing on the reset coil is touching the body of the drop target chassis and that all drop target switches are seated and opening like they should.

Then check that the drop target mechanism is not pinching any cables or ground braid and that the two wires from the coil don't have any shorts and go to their correct sockets.

Sorry I could not be more specific.
 
Moonbus said:
Just trying to get my head around the schematic on IPDB. One page says one thing, other another.

My knowledge is limited but I guess as you did the Q2 must be dodgy.

If it was me and I had spares and Q2 is the same as the others I would swap it over with one of the others like a sling shot to test it.

Also make sure that nothing on the reset coil is touching the body of the drop target chassis and that all drop target switches are seated and opening like they should.

Then check that the drop target mechanism is not pinching any cables or ground braid and that the two wires from the coil don't have any shorts and go to their correct sockets.

Sorry I could not be more specific.
Click to expand...
I replaced q2 again today so shouldn't be that. I've ordered A replacement u1 IC can't remember it's name 3081 or something like that so will see if that helps when it arrives and I'll look over the targets like you sugges. Thanks
 
Try with the 'say it again' pcb unplugged.
There are a number of inconsistencies regarding the manual and actual wiring (specifically relating to the orbs target reset solenoid and sound system).
Check your other bits haven't failed again first though.

good luck
 
backbox said:
Try with the 'say it again' pcb unplugged.
There are a number of inconsistencies regarding the manual and actual wiring (specifically relating to the orbs target reset solenoid and sound system).
Check your other bits haven't failed again first though.

good luck
Click to expand...
 
hmm, there's a few things that could keep blowing Q2 ...

1) J2 pin 4 sol drive shorted to ground - coil always on / Q2 unharmed

2) J2 pin 4 sol drive shorted to 43DC - coil never on / Q2 fails immediately

3) diode across orb sol coil open cct. or not fitted - Q2 likely fails first time coil switches off'
.. check wiring at solenoid and test diode

4) sol drive Q2 ok but faulty U2/R57/U1 - coil always on / Q2 overheats and fails
.. lift either end of CR2 - this will stop Q2 being turned on
 
How many solder lugs are there on the reset coil and how many diodes?

All my Packman ones are 3 lug coils with two diodes. One is across the coil, the other is in-line with the connection from the Sol driver board.
 
Moonbus said:
How many solder lugs are there on the reset coil and how many diodes?

All my Packman ones are 3 lug coils with two diodes. One is across the coil, the other is in-line with the connection from the Sol driver board.
Click to expand...
It has 2 lugs one diode
 
backbox said:
hmm, there's a few things that could keep blowing Q2 ...

1) J2 pin 4 sol drive shorted to ground - coil always on / Q2 unharmed

2) J2 pin 4 sol drive shorted to 43DC - coil never on / Q2 fails immediately

3) diode across orb sol coil open cct. or not fitted - Q2 likely fails first time coil switches off'
.. check wiring at solenoid and test diode

4) sol drive Q2 ok but faulty U2/R57/U1 - coil always on / Q2 overheats and fails
.. lift either end of CR2 - this will stop Q2 being turned on
Click to expand...

Q2 doesn't keep blowing Q3 did but I've sorted that now. The coil that was connected to q3 had been wired the wrong way round.

I'm thinking it's a broken u1 (maybe Q3 coil being wired the wrong way has blown it?) Pins 2 and 3 which I believe q2 connects to both read .2 but u3 and u4 pin 3 reads .9 and pin 2 .2

Would both pins reading low make the coil stick on?
 
Blake7 said:
Q2 doesn't keep blowing Q3 did but I've sorted that now. The coil that was connected to q3 had been wired the wrong way round.

I'm thinking it's a broken u1 (maybe Q3 coil being wired the wrong way has blown it?) Pins 2 and 3 which I believe q2 connects to both read .2 but u3 and u4 pin 3 reads .9 and pin 2 .2

Would both pins reading low make the coil stick on?
Click to expand...

I dont know about the finer workings of the transistors and IC's yet as I have not got to that stage on my build. Sorry.

If you are bored and up for it you can pull the wire out of the connector J2 Pin 4 (if that was the one for the coil that locks on) and see if anything changes. If the coil still locks on you have a short somewhere, if it does not you can assume the issue is on the board.
 
Moonbus said:
I dont know about the finer workings of the transistors and IC's yet as I have not got to that stage on my build. Sorry.

If you are bored and up for it you can pull the wire out of the connector J2 Pin 4 (if that was the one for the coil that locks on) and see if anything changes. If the coil still locks on you have a short somewhere, if it does not you can assume the issue is on the board.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's what I've done, it gets very interesting when you knock all orbs targets down and it keeps registering so you constantly have 5 balls in play. ,
 
Oh I thought Q2 was a repeat offender as you'd previously mentioned that it had gone high and that you had replaced it again and the diode.

It is looking like you,ve probably nailed it as being U1, lifting either leg of CR2 would pretty much confirm it
 
backbox said:
Oh I thought Q2 was a repeat offender as you'd previously mentioned that it had gone high and that you had replaced it again and the diode.

It is looking like you,ve probably nailed it as being U1, lifting either leg of CR2 would pretty much confirm it
Click to expand...
Just lifted a leg of CR2 like you suggested and NO coil fire! I've got a u1 ordered so hopefully we will be sorted when that's changed.
 
Just replaced u1 and we are now have a fully working centaur! I also played around with the say it again board yesterday and we now have lots more reverb. By the sounds of it it's quite rare for an original S.I.A board to still be working so I guess I'm lucky.

Thanks for your help everyone, I'm already wanting a second machine it's quite addictive isn't it!
 
Yay. Welcome to the addiction and top job getting it going.

If I were you I would try out some other Bally ss games before you buy as you have an MPU board that can be swapped over.
 
I've had a few days play now and l love it especially the sounds amazing.

I'm going to replace the connectors next, there are a few which are little tempemental. Is there anywhere that maybe sells a kit of the required connectors for a Bally game? I've been looking around and can't really seem to find much and also I'm not sure of all the sizes.
 
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