Hello mate,View attachment 167870 Looks like it’s transistor 2N3584 (Q21 ) needs to be replaced but it’s a bit of a hack to replace this part as it’s a Unattainable part also replace trans 2N3440 (Q22 ,Q23) while the board is out pinparts sell all the parts to rebuild the high voltage for the display s .
First port - 10p in the meter @carl lawrenceThe first port of call when you are down in power is to check the rec board which makes the power to the next board in the chain ( sol board )
The one on power supply ?The first port of call when you are down in power is to check the rec board which makes the power to the next board in the chain ( sol board )
Hi mate, In displays ?Go Led - Ive got all colours, red, white, green, blue, amber. Can even mix and match them.
That’s good to know mate they look great, infact I remember you saying you put the blue ones in the Electra and i have to say it suits it perfect Clever stuffYes - I make LED display boards , fully assembled, or in kit form (all the SMD components are pre-soldered - just headers and LEDS to solder on)
Yes the rectifier board @ TP2 should be +230vThe one on power supply ?
I did check this and all tested fine
I forgot Alan you make the displays , still undesired which colour I should go on my Space Invaders !Go Led - Ive got all colours, red, white, green, blue, amber. Can even mix and match them.
Got to it in the end something in the HV area of the board is shot, fitted a re con board tonight and displays work.Yes the rectifier board @ TP2 should be +230v
Ohhh space raiders still my favouriteI forgot Alan you make the displays , still undesired which colour I should go on my Space Invaders !
it’s space invaders. not fridge raidersOhhh space raiders still my favourite
white or red but not amber - i can do sale or return if you want to try a bunch of different colours?I forgot Alan you make the displays , still undesired which colour I should go on my Space Invaders !
I’m afraid that’s a new one to me Alan, I’m not afraid to try though !hmm check the golden cliffs saucer kick out coil resistance. is it correct? also put a new diode across the coil.
I’ll have a look at that cheers alanif you’re blowing the tip transistor to a coil it’s either the coil on it’s way out. (shorting it’s windings, so it’s resistance is lower than it should be) or, the fly back diode on the coil itself might be duff. look in the coil. you will see a diode. cut it off and solder a new diode on. they are like £0.10 to buy
Nothings blowing it’s like an intermittent fault ?if you’re blowing the tip transistor to a coil it’s either the coil on it’s way out. (shorting it’s windings, so it’s resistance is lower than it should be) or, the fly back diode on the coil itself might be duff. look in the coil. you will see a diode. cut it off and solder a new diode on. they are like £0.10 to buy
Hi mate,Intermittent faults are the worst ! You have swapped the Q13 so assume thats ok. check the header connector from the Solenoid Driver board to the playfield
The gunning slingshot was exactly this mate, couple of minutes and all good againCheck the tilt Bob and switches aren't stuck on. The gunning pop bumper is probably a switch that needs adjusting. Be worth reseating connectors on the boards as well just in case.
Happy to pop round and give you a hand looking at it if you want mate, just let me know
get a new lockHi mate,
Yeah I real pain as you play the game fine for hours and then out of nowhere it happens ! So annoying
I think I’ll take the q13 out as well and test them both this time in the tester, I should of done this first time.
The component next to q13 ill re do as well as it don’t just look right !
The other alternative I could try is replacing the component that drives right slingshot on the first board sent as this worked fine apart from the slingshot !
Just been for a game or ten all works fine ?
I did remember though last night after a few beers decided to take a look at the coin door as all the workings seem to click from inside there.
The coin door never did shut 100% and on closer inspection seems to of been prized open at some point.
I did try to adjust the bolt on the lock and it took me an age to get it to close, what a fiasco
The head of the bolt on the lock mechanism is bent I noticed and this is what’s causing the problem, where I’m going to get one of those I’ve no idea might start a thread see if anyone’s got one they want to sell.
Thread is really thin compared to the head of the bolt
Hi Jay,Jam,
I can't access the 3rd page of replies, a blockage for porn appears. What's so suspect? The backglass, maybe.
Re. this solenoid not working, if it's been shown to be the solenoid rather than the switch, and Q 13 the drive transistor has been changed, the associated components may be at fault. There's a diode between the driver transistor and the pre-driver (in U 3 for this circuit), I've seen those cracked, breaking the linkage between them.
If no-one's mentioned it, Test Points 6 & 7 on the solenoid driver are provided to switch the driver and pre-driver respectively, they have the correct resistor values attached to apply 5v to the 'base' terminal of the devices and show if they're okay.
Later versions of Stern's largely similar board even have these points named as such in the screening - 'Driver base probe' and 'Pre-driver base probe'
- A lead from TP6 to the banded end of diode CR13 switches Q13
- A lead from TP7 to pin 11 (or the corresponding end of R 65) of the chip U3 switches the pre-driver inside it, and should switch Q 13