Wiring connectors question 80's game

[Replay]

Just looking for feedback regarding the way the wiring has been done/modified? Is it a concern? All those connectors are not factory.

Could it be tidied up with heat shrink tubing?

Don't own the game - thinking about it!

Thanks

 

[astyy]

Should it be a connector or was it cut do you think? If the former could replace with a more standard wire to wire Molex. If cut could rejoin the strands and heat-shrink (or if you're lucky perhaps they reach to solder onto the board). Coincendentally I was watching this video on pinside this very morning on how to do it.

 

[Replay]

Great video!

Always wondered how to do this.

I am not sure why it was done of this game as have no experience of early 80's games.

Certainly looks neater and good for long term but bet it isn't as easy as video makes out

 

[Jay Walker]

The 20-pin connector originally used by Stern was notorious for poor connections, with burnt pins and plastic housing. In this case, soldering the wires direct to the circuit board would prevent the machine being dismantled - the wiring goes up into the back box

 

[astyy]

So should be a connector then - what is it 12-way? Tbh, that chokky block looks like it's doing the job ok, but Andy sells the Molex connector which come in 12-way, you'd need the both parts of the connector housing, 12x male/pin and 12x female/socket crimps (plus the crimp tool!)
https://pinparts.co.uk/t/connectors

 

[Jay Walker]

No, 20 way, exactly as used on the display modules. It was okay there, but with the higher current connections to/from the rectifier board it wasn't up to the job. Usually the general illumination connections (Green, White, Orange and Red) went first, as with my 'Seawitch' and 'Cheetah'

 

[Replay]

The 20-pin connector originally used by Stern was notorious for poor connections, with burnt pins and plastic housing. In this case, soldering the wires direct to the circuit board would prevent the machine being dismantled - the wiring goes up into the back box

Oh, that makes sense now! No point using tubing then.

Found a HUO example to compare.

 

[astyy]

I understand now, I couldn't see the PCB header pins in the photo. So the proper job is to replace the 20-way header pin strip on the PCB, new 20-way connector and crimp terminals, and solder join/heatshrink the severed wires.

Assuming these are the same as a Bally display I have most of what you need here to fix this

 

[Replay]

No, 20 way, exactly as used on the display modules. It was okay there, but with the higher current connections to/from the rectifier board it wasn't up to the job. Usually the general illumination connections (Green, White, Orange and Red) went first, as with my 'Seawitch' and 'Cheetah'

You got a Cheetah?
Heard good things about the game - not many around.

 

[Jay Walker]

I did have one, but not any longer. The old-time Stern games were popular with ops around here, much on a par with Bally, ahead of Williams and Gottlieb (whose games I rarely saw in the area*, but then early solid-state Gottliebs weren't to all tastes)

* Swansea, S. Wales coast

 

[Replay]

The 80/81 Sterns are a tough find in this country - just don't seem to be many around.
Really hard to price as well - they are higher priced in USA and Europe.
I was looking for a Nineball or Quicksilver but gave up on those.

 

[astyy]

I can see what is now the vertical Stern orientation (for BR cooling I guess?) threw me. This guy sells a nice replacement for $50+shipping (or $30 to solder it yourself), you'd still have to re-pin a connector using Trifurcon crimps and rejoin the wires depending on slack.
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html.

 

[Replay]

Some great ideas if I end up getting the game or similar.

Thanks