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Williams system 6 repair help
- Thread starter ronnie63
- Start date
Thankyou, I found this easier to follow http://pinball.flippers.info/system6repairpart4.asp
Mpu sockets have been replaced, the 40 pin looks ok for now! I'm upto the memory test which passed, busy replacing a pia on the driver board, then I will add the roms one at a time to see if it locks up, but it looks like one of the roms was fitted in the what should be empty socket
Thanks Ronnie
Ok
Check the jumpers of the roms as well is it ok according to the roms type
Usually I write a new eproms to make sure the roms are ok.
Did you check the blanking signal yet?
Have you considered replacing the MPU, one for sale on Ebay for £67, or is the fun in the challenge
No not checked the blanking signal, I will do that whilst it's on the bench, thanks, I may also burn new roms, I have the file but it does not contain the 2 flipper roms, also I would need to change the jumpers for 2716.
Thanks Ronnie
Mike it is a bit about the challenge and keeping costs down for me!
Well good luck, I am sure you will get there, well out of my skill level.
Just fitted a another pia to the driver board but pins 2 to 9 are still stuck low, 10 to 17 are toggling as expected, tried another pia same results? pins 26 to 33 are pulsing, this is the pia mounted vertical on the driver board not the 2 below the 40 pin connector. wondering if any of the chips to the right of the pia are pulling the outputs low?
The blanking signal is mostly low but has high going pulses? Not sure if that's correct behaviour with the test rom? It says it switched from high to low?
I have managed to add all the roms apart from ic 17 where the test rom is fitted and no lock ups.
Thanks Ronnie
The blanking signal is mostly low but has high going pulses? Not sure if that's correct behaviour with the test rom? It says it switched from high to low?
I have managed to add all the roms apart from ic 17 where the test rom is fitted and no lock ups.
Thanks Ronnie
Just found this on the guide which explains the pia in question
"the third PIA on the driver board (IC11, the vertical one), you will need to short the pins on connector 2J3 to ground in order to test outputs PA0 to PA7 (pins 2 through 9)."
Just need to find 2J3
"the third PIA on the driver board (IC11, the vertical one), you will need to short the pins on connector 2J3 to ground in order to test outputs PA0 to PA7 (pins 2 through 9)."
Just need to find 2J3
Figured that out, pia is working now! Removed the test rom and fitted IC 14 board behaves as expected led's come on then go off, blanking signal is high but relay does not energise?
I still have a repair to do on the driver board, A fried driver transistor has burnt a hole in the pcb! It has been repaired but the transistor is floating in the hole!
I still have a repair to do on the driver board, A fried driver transistor has burnt a hole in the pcb! It has been repaired but the transistor is floating in the hole!
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ChrisFormela
Registered
Arrow is plus. Different to newer caps.
Thanks Chris I had doubts
Ok so the cpu seems to be stable now, fingers crossed! All the displays are working and nice and bright, all lamps seem to be working on the playfield.
Next I will re cap the sound board and replace the sockets too
I have four coils not firing, the left sling, the 2 drop reset coils on the right, and the trough ball kick out, not looked at this yet!
Thanks Ronnie
Next I will re cap the sound board and replace the sockets too
I have four coils not firing, the left sling, the 2 drop reset coils on the right, and the trough ball kick out, not looked at this yet!
Thanks Ronnie
Check ya voltage going to displays too they say in manual its around 190v ,tweak that down on supply board to about 170v save ya displays
Yeah I think that involves changing diodes? will look at that once it's all working cheers
Here is a strange one! with the coin door open game boots into attract, if I then shut the door it seems to stop? If I boot with door closed it just comes on with dispays showing zero's no attract? I looked at the door switch it only has 2 spades so can't be one fitted wrong, anyone any ideas?
I also have batteries fitted
Thanks Ronnie
I also have batteries fitted
Thanks Ronnie
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I tried that Arv, if I turn it on with door closed the displays are blank, if I then open the door I get zero's, nothing works door buttons don't do anything, but each press of the interlock switch changes the displays from zero to one two three and so on! Only way it will play is with door open?
Cheers Ronnie
Been stripping and cleaning the playfield, fitting new parts as needed, new rubbers etc......
I'm still having sound issues! I first powered today after the rebuild and the sound was working fine, now it's gone silent again! I have fitted new caps and sockets to the sound board and replaced the 6802 cpu along with the pia. Going to check again and make sure the cpu is speaking to it.
Also the door interlock switch issue is still not resolved! will only go into attract with door open?
Cheers Ronnie
I'm still having sound issues! I first powered today after the rebuild and the sound was working fine, now it's gone silent again! I have fitted new caps and sockets to the sound board and replaced the 6802 cpu along with the pia. Going to check again and make sure the cpu is speaking to it.
Also the door interlock switch issue is still not resolved! will only go into attract with door open?
Cheers Ronnie
If it was a 2716 originally then yes.
The below is from a post on Pinside:-
"The sound boards can be configured to use two different rom types, the 2716/2816 or the 9316. Both fit the same socket but have different pinouts. Games could have come with either type, but 9316s aren't reprogrammable so you need to use 2716s. If yours is jumpered for 9316s then it needs to be changed"
The below is from a post on Pinside:-
"The sound boards can be configured to use two different rom types, the 2716/2816 or the 9316. Both fit the same socket but have different pinouts. Games could have come with either type, but 9316s aren't reprogrammable so you need to use 2716s. If yours is jumpered for 9316s then it needs to be changed"
Andy I did read up on the repair guide and it said you could swap a 2716 in without alteration? And given the sound mostly works I think it's ok, unless I'm missing something?
Cheers Ronnie
Dunno then mate. Same post said that jumpers J11, J14, J16 and J18 should be fitted for 2716 so if that's the case you're probably golden 
Ok thanks andy I will check on thatDunno then mate. Same post said that jumpers J11, J14, J16 and J18 should be fitted for 2716 so if that's the case you're probably golden
Dunno then mate. Same post said that jumpers J11, J14, J16 and J18 should be fitted for 2716 so if that's the case you're probably golden
Just checked on that Andy and the board is already jumpered as you described so that's not the issue! I also read that there was a bug that makes the backround sound go off if the ball falls back in the trough after being fired out, this happens on mine also! I did download an image called time warp L-3 which I think is the tweeked image to cure this? But I also read the flipper rom also needs updated? So I'm confused about that!
Cheers Ronnie