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Williams Getaway sound problem

Jon Fletcher

Jon Fletcher

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Nov 9, 2013
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nottingham
If anybody out there can help me on this I'd really appreciate it. Ive been experiencing sound problems on my Getaway. Usually when booted up from cold the volume on the machine is fine, however the last few weeks sound has been dropping to a very low volume sometimes to no sound at all. It will come back but then the same happens. Loss of sound, dropping in and out. Ive changed ribbon cables and cant see any bad connections or dry joints anywhere (not to say there may be one?) I have noticed when the sound drops if I take the volume down and then back up again with the volume control buttons the sound returns to normal for a while. Has anybody else experienced any similar problems or suggest a solution. My next idea was to change the volume switch bank as last week I blasted it with servisol switch cleaner and had no sound problems for about a week but now the problem is back. Not sure if it was a coincidence or do these switches go faulty? Thanks to anybody who may be able to offer advice. Jon.
 
The caps look OK they arent bulging on top. When I had the board out to check for dry joints it looks as though theyve been changed in the past. Not sure how to check if amplifier is going bad?
 
You could try disconnecting the single wire ( should be orange with a blue stripe ) from the back of the - button on the switch bank to prove wether the switch is dodgy or not. I can't see it being the switch though as you said it comes back on its own.
 

  • From the Bible ........






    3o. When things don't work: Sound Problems.

    • The sound on WPC games is very robust; it just doesn't fail too often. But here are some things that do fail related to sound:

      • Re-seat all the sound board ribbon cables. Surprisingly, this fixes a large number of WPC sound problems!
      • Bad rectifier diodes on the sound board. Often these become leaky and can cause intermittent problems before they total short.
      • Speakers blown: yes this happens more often than you might think. If the game was in a noisey arcade, the volume could be up so loud it blows the speakers. You can test the speakers (with the game off) using a 9 volt battery. Momentarily hook the battery up to the leads of the speaker. You will hear the speaker cone pull in if the speaker is good, when you attach the battery to the speaker. Make sure you check the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet too. Often if one speaker is blown, the others will not work.
      • Main amplifier is bad: the sound board uses a LM1875 as the main amplifier. This device has a large heat sink attached to it. Often, this component has heat failure. The sound works fine until the game warms up for five minutes or so. Then the sound starts cutting in and out. You can use a logic probe on the leads of the LM1875. If the probe's beeps correspond to the cut in sound on one of the leads, the LM1875 is probably bad.
      • If the LM1875 isn't at fault, check both of the op-amps too. Depending on the revision of the sound board (DCS or pre-DCS), these audio amps can effect a certain type of sound they amplify.
      • On DCS games, the DAC for the DSP chip dies, and the TDA2030 amps are pretty fragile too.
 
kevlar said:
You could try disconnecting the single wire ( should be orange with a blue stripe ) from the back of the - button on the switch bank to prove wether the switch is dodgy or not. I can't see it being the switch though as you said it comes back on its own.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate.
 
GrizZ said:

  • From the Bible ........



    3o. When things don't work: Sound Problems.

    • The sound on WPC games is very robust; it just doesn't fail too often. But here are some things that do fail related to sound:
      • Re-seat all the sound board ribbon cables. Surprisingly, this fixes a large number of WPC sound problems!
      • Bad rectifier diodes on the sound board. Often these become leaky and can cause intermittent problems before they total short.
      • Speakers blown: yes this happens more often than you might think. If the game was in a noisey arcade, the volume could be up so loud it blows the speakers. You can test the speakers (with the game off) using a 9 volt battery. Momentarily hook the battery up to the leads of the speaker. You will hear the speaker cone pull in if the speaker is good, when you attach the battery to the speaker. Make sure you check the speaker in the bottom of the cabinet too. Often if one speaker is blown, the others will not work.
      • Main amplifier is bad: the sound board uses a LM1875 as the main amplifier. This device has a large heat sink attached to it. Often, this component has heat failure. The sound works fine until the game warms up for five minutes or so. Then the sound starts cutting in and out. You can use a logic probe on the leads of the LM1875. If the probe's beeps correspond to the cut in sound on one of the leads, the LM1875 is probably bad.
      • If the LM1875 isn't at fault, check both of the op-amps too. Depending on the revision of the sound board (DCS or pre-DCS), these audio amps can effect a certain type of sound they amplify.
      • On DCS games, the DAC for the DSP chip dies, and the TDA2030 amps are pretty fragile too.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Carl suggested amplifier aswell. Are these cheap to replace?
 
GrizZ said:
Components are cheap - just depends if you need to pay someone to do the work.
Click to expand...
Is LM1875 like a transistor or triac attached to a large heat sink that looks like 2 towers with fins (crap description I know but its the best I could come up with!) If its just a case of desoldering and re-soldering a new one on I'm sure i can manage it OK.
 
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