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Sold Who Dunnit? £3600 inc Lcd Colour dmd

J.C.Rox

Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 11, 2015
Messages
2,924
Location
Haddington East Lothian
Such a great game, I'll be sorry to see it go, a classic Dwight Sillivan/ Barry Oursler mindmeld and a real break from the norm, solving Cludo-esc murders whilst going up and down in a lift with a, I kid you not, back story set over 34 years!! Have a read here.... http://pinball.org/rules/whodunnit.html

I haven't had this game as long as I'd like to have it but a grail pin came up so sadly this has to go before I got the chance to fix her up fully. I'd describe her as fully working, players condition with a bit of lippy on.

Good bits

Colour dmd lcd.
Art Blades.
Fully working including the slot machine reels. Was given the once over by Andy @pinballmania including checking the main power driver board.
Brand new enhanced quality Translite by Xianek.
Custom instruction cards.
New glass.

Bad bits.

Some wear around a few inserts.
Cabinet got usual age related dings and also holes upfront where had a lock bar fitted. These are in black areas so could be filled and touched in as was my plan.
Using the 5v reset solving board. Not sure why this is needed as @pinballmania checked over the main power driver board and gave it the full bill of health but this little add on board has solved the reset issue so I'm not too fussed.
The coin door doesn't have the bit that closes the full voltage cut-off buttons so they are held closed with zip-ties.

Pics to follow later today, I'm asking what I paid for the game plus the colour dmd and artblades which are the cherry ontop with this game. I think the old dmd had the top line out but I'll include that too.

Martin due to me fairly soon, I can take videos, more pics and whatapp to anyone interested just PM

Cheers,

Jon
 
Re. the power interlock switch; the cable ties could be eliminated by altering the wiring attached. For each group of three terminals on it, move one wire from N/O (Normally Open) to N/C (Normally Closed), so that the circuit is made ('Com' linked to N/C) with the switch released rather than Com connecting to N/O with it pressed in. A few games that I converted to a u.k. C220 door ended up like that, as I didn't want to risk the special clip shaking loose, or a push/pull switch being left set to Off.
 
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