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Whirlwind: New playfield or repair old one

PinIB

PinIB

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Joined
Jul 16, 2020
Messages
393
Location
Manchester
I'm going to start restoring a Whirlwind in the new year (when I've sorted a pinshed) but I've done an audit on the machine and started collecting all the parts as I can't help myself.

Quick question:

New CPR playfield accepting there will be a few issues

OR

Remove loads of mylar, replace some inserts, sort insert decals, repair the wood by the VUK, touch up simple paint in about 5-6 places, touch up one small complex bit of paint and then clear coat

For info - I'm going glossy rad cals and fully chromed out look on legs, side rails, leg protectors and coin door plus CPR backglass.

The work isn't an issue but I'm leaning towards new playfield especially given restoring the old one isn't exactly cost free.

IMG_0113.JPG
 
I'd do both. New if you can afford it, swap and repair your old one. Struggling for cash, remove the mylar, repair inserts, wax and enjoy. I does feel nice and rewarding repairing stuff... :)
 
Sounds like a plan. I agree on repairing stuff - I restored a 1975 motorbike (a baby one Honda ST70) which is making me think I can take the playfield on. Doing it that way will also let me find out whether I can do it in future on other machines.
 
If you're removing mylar I'd use heat and not freeze spray, even if it takes you hours take your time. I'd use a hairdryer running hot/very, very warm. A heatgun, runs the risk of you getting carried away.

I've tried both and I'd never use the spray option again, you cause too much damage and you can't gauge how the adhesive is biting. Using heat with slight pressure on the mylar and fanning some heat you can tell when to pull and when to hold back until there's more heat needed. Smallest area at a time and you'll be fine. If it's "ghosted" it'll come up with the mylar no matter what you do.

I've been doing my Tales From the Crypt play field recently, including insert printing and replacements. I'll upload some pics of how that went and mine was not nice to look at! Getting better now though.
 
I'd leave the insert in and redial it unless it's really dished. The mylar area on a TFTC is massive too... or it was. :)
 
Reading the reviews cpr is definitely the one for Whirlwind - although if you look closely on their website the shooter switch isn’t cut out on the photos. I’ve dropped them an email about it.
 
Apparently that have gone back and re routed the shooter lane cutout, but some got shipped without it being done.
 
As someone who has done a super mint ww it depends on how you look at it if you are going all in and doing everything then it’s got to be a keeper or expect to loose lots of money if you are doing it for the challenge then repair the old one if it’s playing nicely just enjoy it as it
I have tried once to go down the repair way but after it was done I could still notice the repairs and the ocd in me just couldn’t handle it and I bought a new playfield so it was a lot of time and money wasted I have probably done over 10 Taf playfield swap s with cpr playfield s and other than the normal issue s they have been perfect my choice over mirco any day if the playfield is available
 
I can see the merit in going down the resto route if your concerned about originality, but if your doing new decals anyway a new CPR seems to make more sense.

One of the other things to consider is the added difficulty of stripping a playfield and then reassembling weeks/months later.
With a new PF you can just move parts across one at a time.

I have no problems with CPR, very pleased with mine, but there are variances between PF's (registration is slightly better on Bens one than mine, even thought they were brought roughly the same time) your flag says your in the US? Might be possible to buy one at a show where you can inspect/choose the best one.
 
I’ve had a bit of a journey so far:

Flintstones: Played to death, wife made me sell it and I still regret it.
STTNG: Bought off eBay for a great price, it had been sat for 15 years unused and needed recommissioning. I got lucky.
BSD: Sat 8 years unused. Did some cosmetic stuff then spent ages on the electronics and mechs that all failed one by one.
SW DE: Bought a s***show off gumtree and went mental sorting everything including power coating all the cab metal work.

The above all play and look great now.

You guys are talking sense. New CPR playfield for the Whirlwind so I can get it as good as I can. It’s a project plus I like the machine so it’s a keeper. I’ll just have to lose a bit of cash on it.

I’m only in Manchester - it’s the phone that thinks it’s in California.
 
Dex-Jay said:
If you're removing mylar I'd use heat and not freeze spray, even if it takes you hours take your time. I'd use a hairdryer running hot/very, very warm. A heatgun, runs the risk of you getting carried away.

I've tried both and I'd never use the spray option again, you cause too much damage and you can't gauge how the adhesive is biting. Using heat with slight pressure on the mylar and fanning some heat you can tell when to pull and when to hold back until there's more heat needed. Smallest area at a time and you'll be fine. If it's "ghosted" it'll come up with the mylar no matter what you do.

I've been doing my Tales From the Crypt play field recently, including insert printing and replacements. I'll upload some pics of how that went and mine was not nice to look at! Getting better now though.
Click to expand...
Hi, I’m also doing a tales from the cryp, how did you get on? I’m about to try the hair dryer method myself, as you say the freeze option leaves you no where to go if it starts turning pear shaped!
 
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