What am I doing wrong - Rustoleum Painters Touch

[Ashbo]

What started out as sanding back an area of overspray and repainting is turning out to be a real pain in the ar5e.

Anyone have any ideas before I sand the whole thing back to wood and start again?

Application...

Five minutes later...

 

[Paul]

That looks like the paint reacting to something thats previously on the wood....

 

[Ashbo]

That looks like the paint reacting to something thats previously on the wood....

View attachment 219715

It'll be that then. Primed this last year and it's sat in dry room since. First couple of coat applied great, but sanding back set me into a vicious cycle.

Wondering if its something on the sandpaper??

It's wet and dry I've been knocking back with....I wonder

Thanks @Paul

 

[AlanJ]

Did you use the rustoelum primer, or another primer brand? I've had this happen when mixing brands.

 

[Ashbo]

Did you use the rustoelum primer, or another primer brand? I've had this happen when mixing brands.

Thanks Alan,

All Rustoleum Painters Touch, primer and gloss.

As I have nothing to lose, I've sprayed another couple of light coats and I'll see how it cures.

I'll let it cure and see what the finish is like, if passable, I'll see how it holds, failing that ill use the orbital sanding pads and take back to wood. Much harder to do when attacking masked portions than in stages, but it's only time

 

[Ashbo]

Spoke to my dad, who know all things, sounds like strip back to wood and use a coat of blocking sealer to stabilise and try again.

I'll sleep on it. Didn't come this far for it to look cr@p.

 

[carl lawrence]

When you have sanded it all down , what are you wiping the dust off with , because that can be your source of contamination too !

 

[AlanJ]

I use car panel wipe solution to clean.

On the top coat try several really thin sprays, much less chance of crackling up.

If still no joy then switch to matt acrylic paint with a top coat of gloss clear.

I’ve had much better results with acrylic than with the rustoleum gloss.

 

[Ashbo]

When you have sanded it all down , what are you wiping the dust off with , because that can be your source of contamination too !

A clean dry cloth on this one, but get your thoughts. Looking at the old paint I removed, it's very likely something is in the wood. It was nasty, thick gloss paint, like out of a tin gloss. Very thick.

Complete - Bally Minizag 1968 shop log - The final furlong

Placeholder for when I finish Expo and move onto Minizag picked up from John in Leigh-on-sea. He purchased this girl as a non worker from Chelmsford Auctions many years ago. He fixed it up, repainted and enjoyed many years playing it with his family. As the years moved on, she was moved out to...

www.pinballinfo.com

 

[Ashbo]

I use car panel wipe solution to clean.

On the top coat try several really thin sprays, much less chance of crackling up.

If still no joy then switch to matt acrylic paint with a top coat of gloss clear.

I’ve had much better results with acrylic than with the rustoleum gloss.

You may be right on the tiny coats, previously I was spraying the whole head, so very long strokes, this is a much smaller area.

 

[Ant-H]

Definitely contamination on the wood before the paint gets applied.

+1 for the panel wipe as well. I use a tack cloth followed by the panel wipe. And as Alan said, apply thin coats.

 

[Ashbo]

Definitely contamination on the wood before the paint gets applied.

+1 for the panel wipe as well. I use a tack cloth followed by the panel wipe. And as Alan said, apply thin coats.

Thanks

 

[Ashbo]

I appreciate everyone's input here. I know what I need to do now and stop driving myself mad. At least this is the backbox. Imagine if I had started on the body and got this!

 

[Dex-Jay]

I don't use anyting out of a aerosol can but the top pic was a reaction with I presume layers underneath, I doubt it's contamination as such. Contamination from grease, oil, silicone, WD40 gives you "fish eyes".
I'd use an automotive primer myself, then a gloss top coat.

Give it light flat and most importantly DON'T GET IT TOO WET on the 1st coat. Sneak up on coverage, lightly dust and go from there and don't rush drying times. Then if all good make the last one wetter.
If it still reacts, sand it back down to bare timber.

 

[carl lawrence]

A clean dry cloth on this one, but get your thoughts. Looking at the old paint I removed, it's very likely something is in the wood. It was nasty, thick gloss paint, like out of a tin gloss. Very thick.

Complete - Bally Minizag 1968 shop log - The final furlong

Placeholder for when I finish Expo and move onto Minizag picked up from John in Leigh-on-sea. He purchased this girl as a non worker from Chelmsford Auctions many years ago. He fixed it up, repainted and enjoyed many years playing it with his family. As the years moved on, she was moved out to...

www.pinballinfo.com

A dry cloth is where I think you are going wrong , it does not get the dust etc out of the wood, I use a damp sponge and dry cloth because I am a tight so and so , buy some tack wipes like @AlanJ and all will be good.

 

[HomerRamone]

Painter friend said that you can sometimes help by using a hairdryer on it.
Something to do with aerosol paint being very thin and so has more time to -'soak' into the wood and potentially react.
Sounds plausible.. Can't say I've tried it though.

 

[Ashbo]

Painter friend said that you can sometimes help by using a hairdryer on it.
Something to do with aerosol paint being very thin and so has more time to -'soak' into the wood and potentially react.
Sounds plausible.. Can't say I've tried it though.

Sounds like it could work, so long as the flammable fumes have cleared

 

[HomerRamone]

Be fine

 

[Doug]

What you have there is termed 'pickling'. Its caused by the solvents in the paint not evaporating sufficiently enough before the next coat is applied. It's very common on single pack paints, particularly if cheap cost saving 'gun wash' type thinner is used instead of proper slow or fast type thinner.
Aerosol paint is little different as some use different thinner in the mix and arent good bed mates with other brands.
Even if you took 100pc time and effort applying your paint on top of a 'shaky' base the solvent in your paint will still react to the paint underneath. Yes, you could use a barrier primer sealer though the time and cost is too much; If it were me, I'd take it back to bare wood and start again. So long as you use good quality paint and allow each coat to cure before the next coat is applied, you should be ok.

 

[Doug]

Out of interest, what game is that from?

 

[Ashbo]

Hiya

Out of interest, what game is that from?

Hiya @Doug , it's a Mini-Zag.

This morning, the light coats had cured and seemed to look okay-ish. Decided to have a go with the next colour, light dusting only. No reaction at all.

So, what do I think,
1) I was making it too wet. Allowing reactions to happen.
2) the surface wasn't cleaned properly.
3) the wood was probably contaminated.



Now, do I scrub this all off and start again ... I don't think so, this project is actually an exercise in doing the best I can within reason. It'll never be done if I try and be perfection. It's going to be so much better than it was when I bought it.

I have learnt so many good lessons ready for the body, which will be its own challenge. Getting it flat and smooth will take some time

 

[Dex-Jay]

Too thick / wet too fast, slowly dust it on, hairdryer in the other hand if it's cold and keep an eye on it. Flood on wet coats without leaving "flashing" time is asking for trouble. Shake the can "really" well for 2 mins. Dunk the can in a bucket of warm water if it's cold to help warm the paint a touch which will help the flow. That's about it really. Oh decent paint mask and / or ventilation, a dust mask won't stop vapours of course.

 

[prezzo]

Thanks Alan,

All Rustoleum Painters Touch, primer and gloss.

As I have nothing to lose, I've sprayed another couple of light coats and I'll see how it cures.

I'll let it cure and see what the finish is like, if passable, I'll see how it holds, failing that ill use the orbital sanding pads and take back to wood. Much harder to do when attacking masked portions than in stages, but it's only time

Use 99% acetone and good kitchen towels soak them place on area leave for 2 mins then just wipe off .....then repeat it will save hours of work if you decide to start again

 

[M4carp]

I had a problem with this brand of paint curing, if it isn’t left in lower humidity area it will take forever to go hard I found which makes it a pain with pulling stencils off.
This was left to dry for a good few weeks when I then put it on its side on bubblewrap, to fix I just flatted it with sandpaper and did another couple of coats and all was good.
I never had any paint reactions like you have though.
Once I got it into my room where the humidity is below 50% it went rock hard in a few weeks.

If you are not happy sand it all back and use a blocker primer, doesn’t take long with a machine but a bit soul destroying. Does make a mess with the dust though

Worth the effort in the end when it’s looking mint