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Wh2o Upper p/f flipper issues

Paul

Paul

Staff member
10 Years
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
12,226
Location
South Wales
So bottom two work fine. Top flipper (upper PF) works when it feels like it (more not than works!), however works perfectly in test mode every single time.

Anyone any ideas? Seems very strange to me...

Thanks
Paul
 
Hmm... course... probably a dirty opto/flipper board problem.... all the self test does is proves that it fires ok - doesnt prove that there's anything coming from the button...

Off to give it a good clean.....
 
Measure dc voltage at sw1 and sw2 at flipper opto board when button is pressed. Ideally should be below 1v. Under 2.5v is probably ok, over 3v and the flip will be weak and coil will overheat.
 
@pinballmania

Ok Andy - You're starting to scare me now - Are you living in my machine?? ;)

So - the lack of operation was indeed caused by a dirty switch. All now works. However, as you say - It's weak and cant make the ramps.
Found one of the bolts holding the coil stop had sheered, so replaced that (after an hour taking the Mech out and getting the reminents out!).... And it's still weak...

So - Measured as you suggested....

Sw1 - 2.5v
Sw2 - 4.02v

And guess what - Whilst the Lower flipper is cool after a few games - the top mini one is rather warm - even with the EOS connected...

So - What causes this??? And how can i fix it?

Cheers
Paul
 
Aged opto. Dirty or low intensity emitter. Receiver only partially switched meaning opto output is over 3v causing the fliptronic board input effectively tristate. So when button is in, flipper is actually turning on and off repeatedly, causing a weak flip and high 'power on duty factor' equalling excess heat.
 
The eos has little use in fliptronic games. In fact it will work just as well without an eos. The only exception is when a flipper is knocked back by a ball when held up, the eos opens causing the fliptronic to reenergise to bring the flipper back into hold position.
 
pinballmania said:
Aged opto. Dirty or low intensity emitter. Receiver only partially switched meaning opto output is over 3v causing the fliptronic board input effectively tristate. So when button is in, flipper is actually turning on and off repeatedly, causing a weak flip and high 'power on duty factor' equalling excess heat.
Click to expand...

Ahh - Got ya :) Also explains the pulsing/vibrating when I put the tiniest amount of pressure on the energised flipper bat...

Ok so either a good clean, or a replacement opto - Do you have these in stock at all Andy, and are you around later tomorrow at all (Around 5-6pm?) If so, may I pop around and pick a couple up pls... Failing that i'll place an order tomorrow for post... Cheers :)
 
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