All the small mechs re built re plated new coil sleeves new pop bumpers links
Pinball info
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Complete WH20 super minty
- Thread starter chris b
- Start date
All the small mechs re built re plated new coil sleeves new pop bumpers links
New targets not keen on the bolted kind but seem like that's the only ones you can get
New slingshot switches bit of a pain when the bracket is on the wrong side but luckily enough we have the right tools for the job
New slingshot kickers
That's all the new targets in and coils in inc soldering burnt finger tip day
Flip side
All steal ball guides back in re rubbered and some plastics the new sink plated parts make a massive difference they look better than newOK so we're onto the cab restore also
Here's some pictures before it starts. The cab itself is not in a bad condition but it's getting the full works
Here's some pictures before it starts. The cab itself is not in a bad condition but it's getting the full works
First off let's get the old decals off
Bigfoot is looking a little lonely
Bigfoot is looking a little lonely
Once the decals are off it's out with the sander, the first goal is to remove the last of the glue. The sander turns its into loads of tiny balls!!!
Once the glue is all gone we'll get the wood progressively smoother using finer discs.
The bottom is really dirty but the sander will get rid of all that
Once the glue is all gone we'll get the wood progressively smoother using finer discs.
The bottom is really dirty but the sander will get rid of all that
OK here's the sides, front and bottom fully sander. It's already looking much better
What sort of dust extraction have you got on your sander mate (assuming you're sanding inside)? 
It's a Makita dust extractor which removes 99% of all dust created by the sander. It is spot on, costly but worth every pennyWhat sort of dust extraction have you got on your sander mate (assuming you're sanding inside)?
All the lamp boards re flowed and leded
Few more bits and bats on both vuks and the subway ramp
Nice new complete flipper assembly's including coils
That's pretty much the bottom of the playfield done
Next thing is to reassemble all the new ramps one thing that annoys me with new ramps is that the screw holes are never counter sunk and the screws stand way proud causing problems with the shots a quick spin with the counter sink tool in the drill and they fit lovelyBeen busy with the cab over the last few days, it takes some time but it's worth the effort.
Sanded the cab fully inside and out and have filled sanded, and has now had its second fill and sand. It's getting there, the corners are yet to do which is being done using different filler which is much stronger. The first shot is after the first fill, the last picture is after sanding the second fill.
The sides are now really smooth all the dings and scratches are now gone. It will spray really well when finished
Sanded the cab fully inside and out and have filled sanded, and has now had its second fill and sand. It's getting there, the corners are yet to do which is being done using different filler which is much stronger. The first shot is after the first fill, the last picture is after sanding the second fill.
The sides are now really smooth all the dings and scratches are now gone. It will spray really well when finished
Hi Chris, loving this log. Have you thought about having repro labels done instead of sanding round them (if that's what you're doing, I noticed it's still on the back of the cab) Henrik at Pinball dreams has blank templates. I ran some off for my TAF
Really enjoying following this Chris, can I ask what different fillers do you use and why, hoping to get some advice
Ta
Car body filler is always quite good. Dry quickly and easy enough to send to perfectly smooth finish I've found.
The attention to detail in this shop log is unbelievable. Going to be a pricey one if he sells this on, and rightly so
Hi Jon thanks for the heads up on the labels but for me you cant beat the originals if you can save them
Hi Tony as Darren has messaged I use different filler to do different jobs. You want a filler that is strong, but sands easily to fill the scratches and flat areas. However that filler isn't ideal for edges and corners as it breaks easily if knocked. I use a specialist filler with fibre for the corners and edges, it is incredibly strong if knocked. You need to be a little careful if using car body filler some of it just isn't flexible enough for wood, it's a very different substrate compared with metal. I've had a bad experience with car body filler so don't use it anymore.
It seems the sun has gone missing up north and has been raining so it's onto the backbox while we wait for some sunshine.
Pictures of the backbox which looks like Bigfoot has tried to have a little chew of it!!!
Pictures of the backbox which looks like Bigfoot has tried to have a little chew of it!!!
Looks like someone's a little worried about what's going on underneath them 
Here the bb now it's been sanded down
That's it for today my hands are tingling from the sander vibration
Here the bb now it's been sanded down
That's it for today my hands are tingling from the sander vibration
The suns back out so it's out with the spraygun and paint
The inside of the cab is being fully painted, and it's ready for the topcoat now
The inside of the cab is being fully painted, and it's ready for the topcoat now
It's been a great day for spraying
Topcoat done, they wanted the cab fully sprayed inside both inside and out. It looks fantastic, using a spray gun makes a huge difference to the finish. All ready for decalling
Topcoat done, they wanted the cab fully sprayed inside both inside and out. It looks fantastic, using a spray gun makes a huge difference to the finish. All ready for decalling
Backbox screen printed too