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WCS resetting

jonathan

jonathan

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Joined
Jul 21, 2011
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Went to play only my 3rd game on this today and it's reset 4 times in 3 minutes :(

What's the usual suspect?
 
I'll go for Bridge rectifier(BR2) Just done that job on my BSD. Probably the easiest components to cut off and re solder on some new ones.
 
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I never ever had a problem with this Jonathan. I've had the problem and quite a few other games but never that one. Didn't ever miss a beat. Try reseating the ribbon cable to the power driver board. Bloody things really don't like being moved.
The iron man has a faulty power connection to the transformer i think. Need to have it in bits myself:hmm:
 
My BSD was doing it everytime i stacked a multiball so i checked the 5v and it most certainly dropped when it reset the next time. I had to get the missus to make the game go into a stacked MB situation with the glass off so i could look at the meter at the moment of the reset, but after cutting off every bridge rectifier and installing new ones its now 100%.

From the bible:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#reset
 
Had it on my TAF, especially when pesky kids were smashing the hell out of both flippers at the same time. Used the widget as above and it fixed it all right but eventually got Andy N to have a look,and fix the real problem. Took the widget off and it has been fine since. I always worried that the problem was just being masked but try all of the above first and cross your fingers......
 
Thanks all. I'll get the multimeter out and see if I can trace the issue. If not
I'll buy the daughter board
 
Re-seating connectors can fix this sometimes, especially the connectors that take power across from the driver board to the mpu board. Dave W and I went to service a TAF that was resetting regularly expecting to be changing rectifiers and caps but tried re-seating that pair of connectors first, instant fix.
 
Does it reset when you hit the flippers? If so it is probably the 5v voltage drop issue caused by dirty connectors or cracked joints on the pins into the board.

Lots of online coverage of this issue
 
multimeter is a poor way of diagnosing this as the voltage drop is minimal and so quick that it will not indicate this
daughter board is a great quick fix
to do it properly its better to do a full 5v re build inc the conectors
 
J114 on the power board is the most common problem connector. Reseating this connector, preferably replacing it, cures reset problems in most cases I come across. If there's scorching at J101 replace that too. Bridges and capacitors are rarely required to be changed and you should not attempt it unless you have reasonable experience with a soldering iron.
 
pinballmania said:
J114 on the power board is the most common problem connector. Reseating this connector, preferably replacing it, cures reset problems in most cases I come across. If there's scorching at J101 replace that too. Bridges and capacitors are rarely required to be changed and you should not attempt it unless you have reasonable experience with a soldering iron.
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Any chance of i list/kit to replace/repin this connection ?
I have this issues once in a while with my sttng.
 
pinballmania said:
J114 on the power board is the most common problem connector. Reseating this connector, preferably replacing it, cures reset problems in most cases I come across. If there's scorching at J101 replace that too. Bridges and capacitors are rarely required to be changed and you should not attempt it unless you have reasonable experience with a soldering iron.
Click to expand...

I'll give it a go thanks. My soldering is pretty poor but I've managed to replace 2 or 3 BRs over the years without any disasters
 
pinballmania said:
J114 on the power board is the most common problem connector. Reseating this connector, preferably replacing it, cures reset problems in most cases I come across. If there's scorching at J101 replace that too. Bridges and capacitors are rarely required to be changed and you should not attempt it unless you have reasonable experience with a soldering iron.
Click to expand...

well said andy i have seen some right **** diy board repairs recently its worth paying for the job to be done right its a real pain in the ass trying to repair all the burned out tracks and never looks pretty when done
 
On the other hand, how are people going to learn to fix things if they just keep paying someone else to do it. My fixes might not be pretty but they work :clap:
 
I'd pushed firmly on all connectors when I first got the game so didn't think it would be a loose connection. Reseated all connectors tonight though and played for 20mins without issue

Hopefully it was as simple a fix as that! :thumbs:
 
There's a difference between a loose connection and a high resistance connection. The connector J114 may not be 'loose' but if there is oxidation on the contacts inside the connector or on the pins then there will be an internal voltage drop. Wherever there is current flowing through resistance there is voltage drop. Reseating J114 has reduced the resistance internally and hence the voltage drop. Unless you replace the connector the likelihood is that the resets will start again sometime in the future.
 
jonathan said:
On the other hand, how are people going to learn to fix things if they just keep paying someone else to do it. My fixes might not be pretty but they work :clap:
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the best way to do it is buy a old board and practice like mad you also need to invest in a good solder station
the nasty boards i have done recently are by people who dont really know what they are looking for they just go on a forum ask a question get a random answer and just swap out that part make a right mess of it and there is nothing wrong with that component anyway it would have been much easier and cheeper to have the board repaired correctly in the first place
 
chris b said:
the best way to do it is buy a old board and practice like mad you also need to invest in a good solder station
the nasty boards i have done recently are by people who dont really know what they are looking for they just go on a forum ask a question get a random answer and just swap out that part make a right mess of it and there is nothing wrong with that component anyway it would have been much easier and cheeper to have the board repaired correctly in the first place
Click to expand...
Usually done with a £10 soldering iron from ebay and cheap sh!t solder.
 
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