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ToM few issues

AMK

Site Supporter
10 Years
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Messages
31
Hello,
My ToM has collected a number of issues which has made it unplayable and I was hoping for some advice.

The vid below shows the issues in action, but in summary, no DMD and solonoids. The lack of DMD has made resolving the solonoids a prob.

Not sure if I need a new DMD driver board. When the DMD was working, a 1/4 wasn’t displaying so I’ll likely be replacing with a pin4dmd or colordmd. All the ribbons have been reset. Fuses all good.

Video

Thanks, Andy
 
Cheers for the link. All leds are as they should be on the boards.
 
Have you reseated all the connectors and the ribbon cables that come to and from the DMD driver board
 
The DMD needs all voltages.

The fact the game doesnt go into attract mode when turned on tells me that it has an error with the batteries.

Hopefully they have not leaked on the CPU board as this will cause major issues.

If your LOTR has a plasma DMD then swap it over ! That will eliminate.

What area are you in?
 
You also need to leave the door closed while testing solenoids, as the switch inside the door turns the 20v and 50v off to playfield.

It is also worth checking the test points on the main board to make sure you have all voltages (again keep coin door closed).
 
Thanks for the pointers. I’ve reset all connectors and the ribbons on the dmd board, no joy.

I have a battery holder so the board is protected. There is still a bit of acid (on the holder not the board) do I’m running without batteries at the mo.

The door is closed when I try to start a game - still nothing.

Ive not tried the lotr dmd yet. Until recently I would occasionally get something from the Tom dmd. When it did display, it always had the same 1/4 out, but the remainder 3/4 was bright. I suspect the board? Would a colordmd / pin2dmd negate the need for one?
 
No mate both of them are still driven by the DMD board so it needs to be working.

When you say 'no solonoids are working' how do you know that, because the game wont start? This is more likely a switch issue if so.

From the video it looks to be going into a 'factory settings restored' screen, which is why you need to use the service buttons to get past it. This will be due to the batteries being removed. Could you take a photo of that are you said has alkaline damage? Batteries leaking forms a gas which can screw with a wider area than what might be obvious at first glance.

My guess is something to do with the switch matrix, as a result of alkaline damage. You can test that by...

Get the machine into attract mode, then
service button 4 (twice)
service button 3 (twice)
service button 4 (twice)

Then press your start button. If it makes a noise, then I'm wrong :-)

If indeed it is the solenoids (for some other reason you know about) you can test them like this

Get the machine into attract mode, then
service button 4 (twice)
service button 3 (twice)
service button 4 (once)
service button 3 (three times)
service button 4 (once)
close the coin door

If it doesn't start making clacky noises, you're right. :-)
 
How did you test the fuses? You must remove them from the game to test.

Neil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
The DMD board will put out data to a Pin2DMD or colorDMD if the logic side is working.

If you are missing one of the voltages at the DMD it will not work.

If you had areas 'out' then it sounds like the plasma has gone.

If you put in the DMD out of another game - you can tell if its the DMD or the DMD board.

Also - did you unplug/replug the ribbon cables with the machine powered up?
 
Thanks for the replies. I can’t try the service button combos as my third button doesn’t work 🤦‍♂️. I could always use button 2 to cycle through, but I don’t recall the number of options in each menu - do you have this?

Ive snapped a pic of the battery holder/board.

The fuses were tested with a multi meter when removed from the game and I re-reset the ribbons when powered off but nothing changed. I’ll switch out the ends tonight. I have a feeling the issue is up stream but it’ll be one more thing eliminated. Thanks again everyone.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I can’t try the service button combos as my third button doesn’t work 🤦‍♂️. I could always use button 2 to cycle through, but I don’t recall the number of options in each menu - do you have this?

Ive snapped a pic of the battery holder/board.

The fuses were tested with a multi meter when removed from the game and I re-reset the ribbons when powered off but nothing changed. I’ll switch out the ends tonight. I have a feeling the issue is up stream but it’ll be one more thing eliminated. Thanks again everyone.


No probs, change it then to:

Get the machine into attract mode, then
service button 4 (twice)
service button 2 (three times)
service button 4 (twice)

Then press start button.

That alkaline damage is right above your switch col/row cables, so could have affected those, or possibly the ICs underneath that control them. Hard to see underneath that battery daughter board though. I would check those connections for damage - and then reseat/remove/reseat all of them a few times (doing it a few times attempts to remove any corrosion).
 
Thank you Stumblor (and everyone else) was indeed the switches! I reset all the connectors under the battery holder and this did the trick and the game fires up and plays 😄. The dmd on the other hand is still not working. I switched it to the lotr and it is faulty but works. I’m getting a replacement dmd, but still have an underlying problem somewhere. New dmd driver board?
 

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Possibly, but I would test your ribbon cables first - both the CPU-->dmd driver cable and also the dmd driver -->dmd cable.
 
Well, a new DMD pcb from pinball heaven sorted the dmd issue. This, plus a colour dmd I picked up from the group did the trick nicely. Next, I’ll be plating the wireforms to give the play field a lift. Cheers again for the help!
 

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