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In Progress The Phantom Of The Opera Mini Shop Log

RudeDogg1

RudeDogg1

Site Supporter
10 Years
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
8,551
Location
Barnstaple, Devon
Received this machine today on lone from Steve Brum.

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When I say mini log it will still be stripped down, serviced, polished and cleaned but no restoration like I'd do on my own machines. Gonna sort faults out and play it for abit before I start it.

The back glass has a few patches that need preserving which I will do tomoz as I have some triple thick. Sadly most of the mask on the front of the glass has flaked off so nowt can be done about that really.

It's also not booting at the mo just lights some bulbs and makes a loud hum no other life. Going to check fuses and reseat every thing tomoz and go from there. I'm new to data east so it's all abit different than I'm used to.


I've also noticed what has got to be a dodgy earthing bodge. Goes from the speaker panel and is just tucked under the earth braid in the backbox where should it be attached?
 
Wasn't the phantoms transport more a gondola than a "mini ship" ........:rofl:
Anyway....great game love phantom...will be following this one with interest. Real shame about the backglass...
 
Im pretty lucky, my phantom face decal is intact, its just the hanged man that's flaked off. Still, its been sealed now. Great to see this being done up. GL.
 
It lives.....

I went through and reseated all the connectors. Found one toast one and one that's hard wired into the powerboard which I'm sure is meant to be a connector even if it is meant to be hard wired it also has a chick block bodge on, also one fuse holder is missing one side of its holder so will sort these probs out.

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Is this factory? I can't find them on the fuse charts
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Found 4 blown fuses

Ok well so far I have it booting but it can't find a ball so I'm checking the trough switches next. I assume the ticking noise is just to alert for the missing ball? Or does it mean something else.


Unfortunately think I'm gonna need to strip it sooner than I'd hoped. Some of the mechs are abit seized up. I will prob free them up for testing and get some games out of it but it def needs striping.

 
abit more progress all switches working apart from the right pop it trigers the bumper but doesnt register looks like it just needs moving forward. The right sliing the 2 side switches are working and the sling is firing but the middle switch is not registering. Dead diode perhaps?
It nearly started a game but the trough kicker wont fire and the flippers arnt working although one does have a faint flutter. I also cant get into the coil test. It says coil test but as soon as you press the button it goes onto a light test. The light collum and descrete light test wont come up either. Any ideas from any of you DE experts?
 
Ok so the kickback coil has got abit hot and the sleeve has swollen, as I can see it's burnt the wood. I have a spare Williams AE-23-800 can I use this to replace the 23-800 I assume yes?

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Great shop log. Interesting to see a data East one. This game is a bit of a guilty pleasure for me.

Never owned a data East, so I have no idea how to fix them I am afraid. When I get stuck, I board swap into a known working similar era machine to narrow it down. Do you have a data East game, or are there any local to you ?
 
The backbox mounted fuses are totally normal for DE games.

Bottom left of the PPB (or whatever it's called) there is a relay - that's not being switched over if you've no power to coils when in coil test. The relay switches between lights and coils (coils when energised), hence you only having lights. Could be caused by a blown fuse, reflow of connectors required, shorting on something or a wire off, blown transistor, that sort of thing.
 
Moonraker said:
The backbox mounted fuses are totally normal for DE games.

Bottom left of the PPB (or whatever it's called) there is a relay - that's not being switched over if you've no power to coils when in coil test. The relay switches between lights and coils (coils when energised), hence you only having lights. Could be caused by a blown fuse, reflow of connectors required, shorting on something or a wire off, blown transistor, that sort of thing.
Click to expand...

some coils are working tho pop bumpers and slings not sure about anything else cuz it wont let me test them
 
Hey Rudi good to see something different being shopped, shame not yours to work the full Rudi-magic.

Have you found the useful Tech resources here:-
Repair guide to understand architecture - http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm#list
Inkochnito tech chart always handy - http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Data_East_Phantom_of_the_Opera_Tech_Chart.pdf

The diagnostics use the flippers, and you mention they're not working properly. In my case (on very similar Hook) it was a transistor bad on the SS flipper board found on the left front side of the cabinet, give that board a nosey. I also had that kickback playing up which seems to be common and can blow the transistor on the PPB.

Good luck man:thumbs:

ps. Whats the pf like? CPR have this on their pre-orders page.
 
Well I've just taken the flipper board out and I'm sure the bad soldering on the connectors would be causing a short?

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I've buzzed Q3-5 on the ppb board (- on ground + on tab is that right?) and all 3 buz does that mean they are fooked? And checked all the transistors on the other board none of them buzzed. I'm not sure how to check the ones on the flipper board as it don't look like there is a ground on it
 
If that first pic is CN2 it has some bridged pins which is quite normal. Are the fuses good on the flipper board?

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Yes that's cn2 fuses are fine buzzed em all yesterday. So should the tip36c buz I'm assuming no?
Do you know if I can use the Williams coil on the kicker or should it be an exact swap?
 
You've reminded me of another problem on my flippers - on these DEs the fuse holders can get weak and splay and then they don't hold the fuse reliably. Give them a push and check they're tight.

I'd try a different 23-800 on my machine, if it was a physical match and you have the diode properly oriented. If it got that hot I'm suprised the old coil isn't shorted and the drive transistor Q5 blown then fuse. You'll soon know when you put in a different coil - be prepared to turn off if it locks on!
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astyy said:
You've reminded me of another problem on my flippers - on these DEs the fuse holders can get weak and splay and then they don't hold the fuse reliably. Give them a push and check they're tight.

I'd try a different 23-800 on my machine, if it was a physical match and you have the diode properly oriented. If it got that hot I'm suprised the old coil isn't shorted and the drive transistor Q5 blown then fuse. You'll soon know when you put in a different coil - be prepared to turn off if it locks on!
View attachment 71729
Click to expand...

Well as above q3-5 buz so I assume they are fried
 
RudeDogg1 said:
Well as above q3-5 buz so I assume they are fried
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The repair guide Section 3b I linked above describes how to test them using diode test on your DMM. Not sure buzz is the right way.

Hopefully a real DE expert will be along to help you soon:D
 
astyy said:
The repair guide Section 3b I linked above describes how to test them using diode test on your DMM. Not sure buzz is the right way.

Hopefully a real DE expert will be along to help you soon:D
Click to expand...

I can't see anything on there that says how to test them. The way I did it I saw on YouTube
 
How I tested it was right so yeah they are foobard I have some in stock so will have a go later. And gonna try the relay tests it suggests. Thanks for your help so far all of you it's always appreciated
 
Btw, that bank of fuses is shown in the manual Pg43 (but omitted elsewhere) - one for each special coil @ 2.5A Slo-Blo. Strange so many were blown, you could have your work cut out here.

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