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The "How much is this table worth" thread....

I have a Williams Triple Strike that I am looking to sell and would welcome a rough price estimate . It mostly works fine but the ball count doesn't seem to decrement properly and the score seems to get high quite quickly. There is a hum that makes me think a solenoid is always on at the back box. It would suit someone who knows how to fix these few problems. I will take some more photos but here are two:

ts1.webpts2.webp

Any comments welcome. Thanks.
 
Looks a fun game. But with the fault and heavily faded backglass I’d say £500 ish. More knowledgeable EM guys might have a better idea than me.
 
looking at a Phantom of the Opera and although I’ve had estimates on prices, just got first pictures sent. It doesn’t power up and no keys, what you think price wise to offer.

I can see some rush on legs and side rails are busting on paint, hopefully board etc not same.
 

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That looks like it's had water falling on it, hence the rusted lockdown bar and side rails, so cabinet may be shot, plus under playfield parts rusted to buggery. It could be beyond saving, without inside photos you'll have to go and look, from those photos I'd say 300, but don't expect to get a machine that will ever work.
 
looking at a Phantom of the Opera and although I’ve had estimates on prices, just got first pictures sent. It doesn’t power up and no keys, what you think price wise to offer.

I can see some rush on legs and side rails are busting on paint, hopefully board etc not same.
I once picked up a Swords of Fury ( from a flooded ice rink !) in similar condition , maybe worse tbh with the cab delaminating , with hopes of saving it. But despite my misplaced optimism about its future it turned out to be a lost cause with so much damp damage . Powering up it would just give a horrendous screeching death rattle 😂 The boards were in a terrible state. I salvaged what I could from it to recoup my £75 .
You really need to see inside the cabinet and backbox . Take it for ****s and giggles if it’s very cheap but be realistic about the time, effort and money that might be involved. Not the easiest title either to source game specific replacement parts .
 

The playfield will likely look like the one in this thread and all the rusty metalwork will be a nightmare to remove. I would be surprised if the playfield is salvageable. And I expect you will spend £1,000+ on parts other than the playfield unless you have parted out games in the past and have plenty of good used spares. New lamp holders nuts bolts playfield posts t-nuts etc. quickly add up. Anything that has been in contact with wood will definitely be rusted. Plus a few hundred on powder coating all the metal. And 70 to 100 hours work. And likely a new mpu board at £250 used as it is sure to have leaking batteries. And maybe there are no boards in it anyway. Given it’s a £2k game when working the £300 suggested seems about right to me. But even at that you may spend so much on parts that it costs more than it is worth.

I would be asking to bring a drill and drill out the locks (coin door first in case the back box key is hanging on the back of the door). At least you will then be able to assess whether it’s it’s complete and worth taking on.

But If you do decide to take it on for some crazy reason I can help you out with much cheaper used parts like the posts and the lamp holders as I parted out a lot of data east in the past.
 
looking at a Phantom of the Opera and although I’ve had estimates on prices, just got first pictures sent. It doesn’t power up and no keys, what you think price wise to offer.

I can see some rush on legs and side rails are busting on paint, hopefully board etc not same.
Whatever you think it might cost to get playing and looking good again. Double it,
These things always cost way more than you think. I took on a water damaged corvette. I’m literally ££££’s into it. I’ll never recoup that money. It’s always more than you think.
I’d start at £500. You’ll always sell the glass and playfield to recoup that.
 
Whatever you think it might cost to get playing and looking good again. Double it,
These things always cost way more than you think. I took on a water damaged corvette. I’m literally ££££’s into it. I’ll never recoup that money. It’s always more than you think.
I’d start at £500. You’ll always sell the glass and playfield to recoup that.
Did you typo an extra zero on that?
 
not drilled a door before what bit do you suggest, and can it be broken with screwdriver ? The glass need to come of some can see past the muck on top and board for rust corrosion, might suggest taking it off their hands and once inside and salvageable ill give £500.
 
not drilled a door before what bit do you suggest, and can it be broken with screwdriver ? The glass need to come of some can see past the muck on top and board for rust corrosion, might suggest taking it off their hands and once inside and salvageable ill give £500.
Maybe it will look like this under the grubby glass 😁

IMG_9933.webp
 
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The locks are not overly complicated to pick but with the condition of the machine, I suspect it will be harder to do.

In these lock, the shaft has a series of pins that lock into the barrel. Each pin is split into two parts, the key moves them out of the way so the split aligns with the barrel so it can turn freely.

1769509416854.webp


When you drill, you remove the barrel material so the pins no longer come up against a stop, and fall into the centre.
Youtube takes down the videos when people post them.
 
Big flat head screwdriver

Hopefully backbox key inside somewhere as they are far more a PITA

Not booting is a worry as main board , repro displays are expensive and transformer hard to source but it could be "just a fuse"

If backglass is nice , machine is probably worth £500 in parts but without booting don't risk more

Corrosion / flaking on de lockdown bars is common even on tidy games so powercoating solves that

Legs look wrong as should be ribbed
 
Hmm, I can pick locks and I can use flat head screwdriver but I've always had trouble getting in to circular locks without a drill... Am I doing something wrong? :oops:
 
Was talking brute force but risk is damaging door or frame. Drilling always best for locks tbh
 
I have a pretty mixed bag of games from cafes and arcades and I rarely change the locks unless the keys didn't come with them. I have had success picking the single-side key types but only when I feel patient and stubborn.
I have a few which are barrel (tubular) locks and those are beyond my lock picking skills and patiences.
 
I have a pretty mixed bag of games from cafes and arcades and I rarely change the locks unless the keys didn't come with them. I have had success picking the single-side key types but only when I feel patient and stubborn.
I have a few which are barrel (tubular) locks and those are beyond my lock picking skills and patiences.

Ive seen you can get tools for barrel ones that claim to work automatically, always fancied getting a lock pick set to play with and one of those tools. I've had to drill a couple of them in the past and they are a ball ache.
 
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