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Test Menu problem (No Fear)

Ben-P

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Joined
Jan 20, 2014
Messages
68
Location
Surrey
Hi folks

I have just set up No Fear in the house as it has been folded up in storage for a few months. I replaced the batteries, then switched it on to check all is still working. Everything seems to work and it plays ok, except for one of the magnets on the ramp accelerator is misbehaving. This results in the ball being ejected from the ramp behind the skull.

I went into the test menu to try and determine the problem source. However, when in test mode I noticed that several tests do not work (eg. Solenoid, flasher, flipper), and other tests identified in the manual are not present (eg. Accelerator test, underground trough, skull). I know that the solenoids and flippers all work when a game is started. I checked the CPU LED’s on start up, and these are flashing correctly. The ROM is the original version 0.8x, rather than the latest version 2.3.

I am not sure why some tests have stopped working, and where have the other tests gone? Does anybody have suggestions for where I should start to look? Or should I even be worried?

Thanks,
 
And get the software updated as a priority. You are missing a lot of functionality.


Changes from revision 2.2:

Improved the ball search logic to better compensate for a
broken switch at the right popper.

Changed the Skill Shot choice to start after the plunge,
not before. This keeps the choice from being available
until the ball actually arrives at the shooter.

Fixed a bug where choosing LOCK from the skill shot would
remove the 3rd lit lock if the player already had it lit.

Fixed score histogram labels.


Version 2.2
Date: September 14, 1995
U6: Checksum: A622 (A - USA/Canada)
Checksum: 8122 (X - Export)

Changes from revision 2.0:

Fixed a bug where the state of the errors for the optos
being stuck and the drop target being flakey were not
being cleared at factory reset, so the user could get
erroneous errors randomly, based on the state of the CMOS
RAM before the reset.

Fixed a bug in the user-error report where line 2 of
of the error message was not being cleared properly.
This would cause messages such as "check drop target,
not set" instead of just having "check drop target"


Version 2.0
Date: June 8, 1995
U6: Checksum: C520 (A - USA/Canada)
Checksum: 9F20 (X - Export)

Changes from revision 1.1:

The game now checks the ramp magnet optos to see if any are stuck
closed at initialization. If so, they are considered to be
disabled until the next powerup (or test mode) that sees them
un-stuck.

Added user report messages for stuck and disabled magnet optos.

Changed broken switch logic on drop target to make sure
that it does not try to change the position of the drop
target unnecessarily; thus allowing the player to get
to the shot behind it more easily. This then allows
locks to be lit much easier when the drop target is broken.

Added logic to watch the drop target for 15 games to make sure
that is is lighting locks. Gives a message if 15 games go by
without a lock.

Corrected the updating of the buy-in button lamp to make sure it
is updated whenever credits are added. Before, it would not start
blinking until the player had put in MORE than the required credits
for buying in.

Allowed the buy-in button to enter initials during the high score
to date entry screen.


Version 1.1
Date: May 15, 1995

U6: Checksum: 0311 (A - USA/Canada)
Checksum: DD11 (X - Export)

Changes from revision 1.0:

Added French translations.

Changed the default adjustment for Raceway Start to AUTO.

Change the default Raceway Holdover Difficulty to HARD.

Changed the auto-percentage of Raceways to start with 2 lit
instead of 3 by default.

Implemented the "dice match" feature. Added an adjustment
to use the old match display.

Fixed a glitch in the multiball start display.


Version 1.0
Date: May 3, 1995
U6: Checksum: 1B10 (A - USA/Canada)
Checksum: FB10 (X - Export)

This is the release of software for production.

This version works with sound revision 1.0:

U2: Checksum: 6B00
U3: Checksum: 6700
U4: Checksum: D000
U5: Checksum: 2700
U6: Checksum: B200
U7: Checksum: C700

Changes from revision 0.8:

Added German translations.

Fixed a bug in the drop target updater which would allow
the drop target to stay in the "wrong" state if it was
told to change while it was already busy trying to change.

Changed track feature to allow laps during the grace
period of nascar - the most obvious result of this is that
the nascar lamps will be properly updated at the end of
NASCAR mode.

Drop target now only makes a sound effect when it is dropped
by the player.

Added adjustment ofr attract mode sounds and speech.

Added broken switch logic for right ramp, underground lockup,
right/left loop switches and right return lane.

Trough test now makes sure the drop target is down at the
b eginning of the test.

Added two score fonts to the system to accomodate a 10 billion
single player score and a 10 billion multi-player "player up" score.

Increased flipper Skill Shot to 50 million.

Fixed "match" text to fit on screen.

Added a bunch of lamp, display and sound effects.

Ball search is now held off during video mode.

Fixed up the auto-plunger to correctly check game ove
 
As a heads up,any interlock switch that hasa thinner switch tapering either end


ie this one

http://na.suzohapp.com/images/50/53-7030-90_lrg.png

,means that when that switch is pulled OUT you can doa ll your tests with the coin door open without having to push the switch in.By default IIRC all wpc-s and wpc95 and Stern games have this functionality
 
I only had a short time available last night, but found the interlock which allowed the high power tests to be enabled! I checked the optos in switch test and each one changed state. I also activated each magnet individually and threw a ball up the ramp, which showed the middle one is playing up. I will have another look when I get some more time.

However, according to the manual tests T.16 - 20 are missing - would this be due to having the old software?

Where do people usually get new ROMs? - I can see them on Pinball Heaven, but not PinballMania.

thanks
 
As a heads up,any interlock switch that hasa thinner switch tapering either end


,means that when that switch is pulled OUT you can do all your tests with the coin door open without having to push the switch in. By default IIRC all wpc-s and wpc95 and Stern games have this functionality

Wms didn't fit that type of switch on WPC or WPC-S - I used to fit them for the op I was working for, to avoid using/losing the yellow 'special tool' provided (a bit of steel shaped to clip onto the switch bracket, and hold the interlock switch in). I also used to move the bracket holding both switches, since I felt it was too close to the plate mounted on the door. The pull-out type of switch is (or used to be) common on the back door of fruit machines.
 
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I must've been unlucky, I suppose.

But I think it's possible to by-pass the switch altogether, at the transformer. On some games, anyway, the extra wiring for the interlock uses the same connectors as the 'standard' wiring, so the wires going to & from the switch can be unplugged, and the wires going up to the power driver board connected directly to the transformer secondaries. I haven't done so myself, but I saw Gary Flower do this on a Williams game, Star Trek Next Gen, I think.
 
I must've been unlucky, I suppose.

But I think it's possible to by-pass the switch altogether, at the transformer. On some games, anyway, the extra wiring for the interlock uses the same connectors as the 'standard' wiring, so the wires going to & from the switch can be unplugged, and the wires going up to the power driver board connected directly to the transformer secondaries. I haven't done so myself, but I saw Gary Flower do this on a Williams game, Star Trek Next Gen, I think.


Yes there's a little 6" or so connector loom in bottom of the cab.Sure I've seen it on NoFun and Shadow

poibug
 
Surely if you have a switch that isn't pull-able (ooer) wouldn't it make more sense just to change it for one that does?

Slide off two spades, press switch from bracket, press new switch in, push spades on. must take all of 20 seconds, and easily do-able for the non-technical...
 
Surely if you have a switch that isn't pull-able (ooer) wouldn't it make more sense just to change it for one that does?

Slide off two spades, press switch from bracket, press new switch in, push spades on. must take all of 20 seconds, and easily do-able for the non-technical...


That was my standard thing to do on bally williams pins,much better than the original switch
 
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