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Complete Terminator 2 Ultimate Hunter Killer mod

Dinsdale

Dinsdale

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Joined
Oct 19, 2022
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391
Location
UK
Hi all

I've just finished installing my Ultimate Hunter Killer mod by avo-pinball.de.

I believe this is the same HK mod that Ant put on his restored T2.

When I bought my pin, the basic standard plastic HK wasn't included. It wasn't a big miss, as it was quite cheap looking.

However, I'm a stickler for accuracy to Stan Winston's designs and it came down to this and another HK mod.

The other HK mod looked more detailed but it didn't move like this one does.

This one scans the playfield in skill shot/multiball/jackpot modes and shakes back and forth if you successfully hit your shot.

It's a really nice addition and I'd recommend it. It is a bit pricey when you factor in shipping as well as post-Brexit customs charges - came to £353 in the end but I really think it adds another element to a great game.

The instructions are HERE. They are translated from German so there's a bit weird English in places but it gets you there.

The hardest bit was locating the tiny 5mm screws in the extremely small holes on the bracket. This took me ages.
 

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Dinsdale said:
Hi all

I've just finished installing my Ultimate Hunter Killer mod by avo-pinball.de.

I believe this is the same HK mod that Ant put on his restored T2.

When I bought my pin, the basic standard plastic HK wasn't included. It wasn't a big miss, as it was quite cheap looking.

However, I'm a stickler for accuracy to Stan Winston's designs and it came down to this and another HK mod.

The other HK mod looked more detailed but it didn't move like this one does.

This one scans the playfield in skill shot/multiball/jackpot modes and shakes back and forth if you successfully hit your shot.

It's a really nice addition and I'd recommend it. It is a bit pricey when you factor in shipping as well as post-Brexit customs charges - came to £353 in the end but I really think it adds another element to a great game.

The instructions are HERE. They are translated from German so there's a bit weird English in places but it gets you there.

The hardest bit was locating the tiny 5mm screws in the extremely small holes on the bracket. This took me ages.
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Does anyone know if avo.pinball.de is still in business? I really want to purchase that ultimate hunter killer mod for my T2 pin but don't speak/read German. Any advise?...I am in the US. Thanks for a any help to can offer.
 
Jdobiesz said:
Does anyone know if avo.pinball.de is still in business? I really want to purchase that ultimate hunter killer mod for my T2 pin but don't speak/read German. Any advise?...I am in the US. Thanks for an any help to can offer.
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Yeah they are definitely still in business. I recently ordered 3 of these mods for some future restores I’m doing.

You should be able to change the language on their website to English.
 
Ant-H said:
I don’t think they accept PayPal now. I had to pay via bank transfer
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Thanks for the replies! just went to the site to place my order and the mod is now listed as "currently unavailable". I asked if it was going to be available again anytime soon. waiting for a response....anyone have an "extra" that they would be interested in selling?
 
while I wait for AVO to replenish inventory of the mod I REALLY want I decided to install one that I purchased over 10 years ago and never did install. It was from Pinbits and don't have the instruction sheet any longer. I've poked around on the web....can't find anything other than a "page not found"...any suggestions??? It has 4 wires, 1 black, one red, 2 yellow , with 6 LEDS. It mounts to the bottom of the standard HK ship20250117_050806.webp
 
Jdobiesz said:
while I wait for AVO to replenish inventory of the mod I REALLY want I decided to install one that I purchased over 10 years ago and never did install. It was from Pinbits and don't have the instruction sheet any longer. I've poked around on the web....can't find anything other than a "page not found"...any suggestions??? It has 4 wires, 1 black, one red, 2 yellow , with 6 LEDS. It mounts to the bottom of the standard HK shipView attachment 269665
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Without seeing the mod in person, I’d guess that one set of wires is to light it and the other set are for flashers.
 
Thanks Ant, since I trust your judgment better than my own on this...where would you connect these? The 2 yellow ones are zip tied together and the red and black are zip tied together. Do you think that there is a GI and flasher circuit in that board? Any thoughts?
 

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If there was a page once it may well be in the way back machine.
Red and black usually are power, yellow are flashers. Can you see where they connect to?
 
I am going to take another look under the playfield where the mod is to be installed there are a couple of flashers right there. Would you think that I should be looking for something with red and black wires to match those up to as well?...or no?
 
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And you would need to state clearly which coloured wire goes to each of the 4 pins on the pcb as it is unclear from the pics.
 
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I can also see other configurations that could mean the yellow is for an ac source maybe from general illumination and the red and black are from the flasher to control the mod. It's really important that you post clear pics so that all the circuitry can be determined so that it can be worked out what goes where before connecting anything. Otherwise you may just end up frying the mod.
 
Most important question is what the lettering is on the square component with 4 legs two of which are connected to pins 2 and 3 of the board connector. And if pins 2 and 3 are connected to the yellow wires.

That component could be a bridge rectifier running off an ac source.
 
The component D1 is a bridge rectifier as I can just see the markings on the pcb to show that it is. And c1 will be the filter cap.
So it needs an ac source at pins 2 and 3. Let us know what is printed on that bridge rectifier and other components but I suspect that as only permanent ac source on playfeld is the gi that is where to tap into.

Likely black and red will go to target flasher.
 
ok, here are the pcb pics. All wires rom the pcb are black and they go to the supplied pigtail which has the Red and black zip tied as a pair and the 2 yellows zip tied as a pair. I will trace the wires back to the corresponding pins per your request...hooking it up wrong and frying it has been my concern
 

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Can you take a pic where the writing on the chips is readable? Concur with AlanJ that there is rectification on the board so AC needed.
 
Better pics.

Bottom middle is a bridge rectifier df01s
Bottom right is Lm78L linear regulator.

I can't make out lettering on other 2 chips so can you write out what they are.

And definitely need you to trace the wire colours.
 
The red wire is to the right pin. The black wire is to the left pin. The 2 center pins are yellow
 

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you were spot on with the chips that you identified!!! I have a better picture of the chip that was a blurred. The 2yellow wires go to the DF01S...THAT I can tell...
 

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Top left is a 4n35 optocoupler.
Mid left is a 12f675 flash controller.

The 12f675 rated up to 5.5v so you need bridge rectifier to be outputting less than this so more than 7v ac on the yellow wires so it would appear that it was designed to take ac supply from the gi circuit.

When you say that black wire is to the left pin is that the left pin when looking from component side of the board? Or the solder side?
 
I can see from the pics that the red wire is ultimately connected via r6 to pin 1 (anode) of the optocoupler so that will need to go to the flasher to provide the signal that turns on the functionality of the mod. R6 seems to be in the circuit to bring down the voltage across the optocoupler as that is only rated at 10v whereas flasher circuit is 20v.

I cannot trace exactly the path on the pcb of where the black wire goes to as the traces go under the flash controller but it looks like it goes to pin 2 (cathode) of the optocoupler which I think is what you would expect it to do.

So I believe that last step is to connect the red and black wires so that the optocoupler is in parallel to the target flasher. Red wire to power side of flasher.

But this really is at the bounds of my knowledge of circuit design so hopefully @drhex or others can confirm correct before you go ahead and make connections. And I am assuming that it is the target flasher that red and black connects into as that is what the original designer implied in his video.
 
Sounds correct to me. Maybe connect power first and see if it lights up at all. Can't see where the cathode of the opto coupler goes (pin 2). Should be black, you may want to measure this. What is the value of R6? Should be around 500 Ohm
 
Sorry for the delay...I got waaay ahead of myself and put the thing back together, had to take it back out and apart. R6 is a 103, measures 10k
drhex said:
Sounds correct to me. Maybe connect power first and see if it lights up at all. Can't see where the cathode of the opto coupler goes (pin 2). Should be black, you may want to measure this. What is the value of R6? Should be around 500 Ohm
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