What's new
By:
Pinball info

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Complete Terminator 2 Skull Replacement

Dinsdale

Dinsdale

Registered
Joined
Oct 19, 2022
Messages
391
Location
UK
Hi all

The upgrading of my Terminator 2 continues, and this is going to be the most fiddly upgrade yet but probably the most satisfying if I can pull it off.

Full disclaimer, I've got to give full credit to Ant-H who did this very thing with his T2. You can see the details HERE.

Goal
I am completely replacing the flimsy, plastic half skull of a T-800 with a full, more accurate version. I'm a huge Terminator fan, and I'm a stickler for accuracy that Stan Winston would be proud of. This really was the best choice when it comes to a skull, as it was fairly accurate and right size. I really want to give it an effect that the skull and wireform were all part of one piece. It's actually a box, designed to put keys etc in, and the face is a lid. This really made it possible to do.

The skull is officially licenced too, and is made by NemesisNow. They can be found on eBay and cost around £35.

Issue
I didn't want to copy Ant 100% though, I thought about not cutting the side out as much as Ant did, but that would mean I couldn't easily slide it over the wireform. I had to come up with another solution.

Theory
After standing staring at this for ages, a ligthbulb went off.

The theory would be, I would cut out only the part of the skull for the wireform to exit on the side, and actually take off the wireform from the other end, and almost like a steady hand game, move it along the wireform and then plonk it into place.

I would get this in place, confirm the fitting, and then worry about the eyes being lights afterward.

Cutting
Because Ant posted detailed pictures when he did this, I was able to do a bit more prep work with the chin guard too, so this really gave me an advantage.

Second full disclosure, I did none of this work - but my uncle did all of the cutting for me... he will be getting it back if I need to make any modifications too. I'm lucky he's understood my requirements and did such a good job. I do need to get it spray painted black inside, but want to make sure it fits first. My Dad is a metal worker so that came handy for him to modify my chin bracket.

Next Steps
So here is what I have and will be starting with.

Skull 1.jpg

Skull2.jpg
Skull3.jpg
Skull4.jpg

Over the next few days, I'll be taking off the right ramp, so I can move that out of the way, giving me access to lift the ball popper wireform up - ready to slide across and round into place. This is somewhat daunting in itself, lots of tiny screws/washers/bolts. I'll be taking a few videos and lots of reference photos so I can put it all back together again.

Updates will be posted here. Wish me luck.
 
Good luck with the project Gary. 👍🏻
Seeing what your doing is giving me flashbacks of when I was just staring at this skull trying to get my head around it 😂

There’s a couple of others on pinside that have modded this skull now as well. However they just cut the back away like the standard plastic version and mounted too far forward imo, as you couldn’t really see the drop target anymore.

I can’t make out from the photo, but has the side been cut out? I think it has. If so, depending on how high you mount the skull, I think your need to remove more material at the side as the wire form is actually higher that you would expect.
 
Ant-H said:
Good luck with the project Gary. 👍🏻
Seeing what your doing is giving me flashbacks of when I was just staring at this skull trying to get my head around it 😂

There’s a couple of others on pinside that have modded this skull now as well. However they just cut the back away like the standard plastic version and mounted too far forward imo, as you couldn’t really see the drop target anymore.

I can’t make out from the photo, but has the side been cut out? I think it has. If so, depending on how high you mount the skull, I think your need to remove more material at the side as the wire form is actually higher that you would expect.
Click to expand...
You're right l thought that too, I think I do need to remove more. The idea is to remove too little and work it down gradually than remove too much.

I tried to see if someone had a spare part and I could test it that way but unfortunately nobody did.
 
So, I've layer a white towel down underneath and I'm going to place nuts, screws, etc in the corresponding place on the towel as they are on the playfield - just to help keep track.

First step, remove the existing skull.

You'll see I've managed to undo one nut so far, because the second screwhead is unfortunately threaded.

A472370B-9166-4E60-80E9-2845788F897E.jpeg

So I may have to take playfield out entirely, and I don't have a rotisserie or anything to put it on unfortunately.

Will have to come up with another plan.

I'm a bit gutted I've fell as such an early stage but at least I can still play.
 

Attachments

  • 1E2EEAC8-1A7D-4D58-B713-0D5785A77D31.jpeg
    1E2EEAC8-1A7D-4D58-B713-0D5785A77D31.jpeg
    96.7 KB · Views: 9
Two sawhorses and you‘ll be fine. Have done lots of swaps this way. That being said, why do you think you have to remove the playfield?
 
Because this playfield doesn't slide out like others I've seen, which would give access to the very top. I don't have access to the very top of the playfield. The prop will only go to a certain angle, which would mean everything I need to get to will be out of reach.

It'll be a hell of a lot easier just taking it out. Especially when it comes to the planned technique of guiding the skull through the wireform.

Also, when it comes to some expected trial and error with the cutting more of the skull, it's going to be a hell of a lot easier.
 
Means you will have to disconnect the whole playfield and manhandle it. Plenty of opportunity to cause further issues. Anyway, sawhorses will work, have a second person around to lift it out and mark all the connectors.
 
The playfield is out, and the old skull is off. Got to be methodical removing some plastic, some of which have nuts and bolts that are a pain to get to but no going back now.
520708A9-2D47-4101-8953-60ABF3B38FB3.jpeg
 
49E75753-F4E7-45BA-82AF-D13A64D62C41.jpeg

As you can see, the skull is now in place (though not resting on anything, hence it's wonky look currently). It was much easier than I thought to get at the wireform am that would allow me to slide it round.

The trouble I have now is, I've dropped two screws due to use of what I can only describe as the most unmagnetic magnetic screwdriver in the world and I have to find them in the ether.

I can then reposition the plastic and position the skull and see how that looks.

Two more birds killed though, I managed to replace the fourth lane plastic that needed replacing but was impossible to get to without taking other stuff off.

D7E7B1B8-3328-4920-B1F6-5F4623A58546.jpeg

....and I've installed new side blades, taking advantage of the playfield being out.


5F7B0CAD-C708-440F-9DA5-D305F1F7FDC5.jpeg

I am going to need help with ensuring when I resolder the new lights that I'm doing it right, but I'll post about that when the time comes. For now, on to find these screws.
 
Something I'm working, might be of interest to you at a later date?

It's a LONG way from the finished product, but I guess you get the idea
 

Attachments

  • 20230225_112614.jpg
    20230225_112614.jpg
    124.6 KB · Views: 13
  • 20230225_112943.jpg
    20230225_112943.jpg
    91.7 KB · Views: 13
So yesterday and today was spent with a bit trial and error for grinding but the skull is in place. I'm let down with the plastics it attaches to being damaged already. I'm seeking new original plastics but he's in place.

A86CED5D-275C-4A8E-A098-3A0CAEBD3087.jpeg

D69E33A9-AEB5-479F-9924-7A2DE168C023.jpeg

I'll be moving on to the lights next.
 
Alright; the playfield is finally in and the skull looks great. I got the effect I wanted.

ABB75441-A934-47B7-9E90-5059639A71E4.jpeg
Unfortunately, due to broke plastic, it's a little loose so need moving forward ever so slightly so I have ordered some new plastics that should help with that.

It seems I need to wire the lights to a diode so again, I can do that afterward.

But I really love how it's came out.

B6C94345-ECD4-4098-B702-65F8E35369E4.jpeg

68EFD685-141F-461A-BB20-161794AC5908.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • D15374D4-0FE8-4432-8818-73DBEF124BB0.jpeg
    D15374D4-0FE8-4432-8818-73DBEF124BB0.jpeg
    122.3 KB · Views: 5
So, I had a go at the eyes. Here was the original wiring.

2AA87FF5-CA6D-4436-9B9E-6DD0C4C6811E.jpeg

I resoldered the wires and diode in the same setup as they were.

44A93681-E294-485F-A673-234DFDA836FD.jpeg

5F429111-A3DB-4990-9D93-CFFA552777B0.jpeg

Unfortunately the result is that the Terminator looks like he has two lazy eyes. Rather hilarious, but I think my uncles drilling job was awkward, so I'm going to buy another skull and try with a dremel.
 
drhex said:
Wouldn't you want them flush anyway? Drill with a bigger drill?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I do want them flush but the holes now are too big, hence why they rest all cockeyed (literally).

Both holes are placed differently too.

I'm going to make a smallish hole, tight enough for the back of the LEDs to fit through, and then use a dremel on the backside to sink the bulb holders in.

It doesn't help that the eyes protrude with the eye mechanism of the T-800 naturally on the skull so that's why drilling to make a hole is awkward.

I'll get there, it's just trial and error.
 
All finished! In the end my Dad created a custom, awkwardly shaped bracket to help fix onto the plastic. He's a metal worker and I was impressed as to how he got the measurements of the holes bang on first time.

This secured the skull, the top of the skull is secured with Blu tack, which means I can get to the lights easily.

I am over the moon, it hasn't been easy, very awkward to get right but it's exactly what I wanted!


0C78E5DB-8C2E-491D-90B2-8D72A45C0B39.jpeg

FD9145AB-D65D-4BDF-A4FB-C2A1B25613DD.jpeg
62D4C70D-DB93-4677-BECB-3285B32FAC68.jpeg
 
Yes. I normally put them underneath to protect the original plastics and they pretty much stay hidden. Nice to see how much you enjoy this pin :)
 
ChrisFormela said:
Yes. I normally put them underneath to protect the original plastics and they pretty much stay hidden. Nice to see how much you enjoy this pin :)
Click to expand...
I love it! Going to out a coin mech in, and fix a couple of lights that are acting weird but then it's pretty much done. The new plastics make it look like it is brand new. You did a great job with the playfield!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom