TAF lost low power solenoids

[Spadge]

Having one of those weeks with TAF after changing my main ramp, then replacing the battery holder, installing GOLD ROM and fixing the ramp diverter. All done and happy apart from I know seem to have lost the bank of low power solenoids.

So checked fuses, specifically F104, it's fine and 3A SB. As do all fuses.
Checked connections J107/127 seated fine.

Just wondering what I really should check next?

 

[Spadge]

Also, there is 75v dc at connector 107 pin 2, switches to solenoids work fine.

 

[pinballmania]

Reseat short ribbon cable. Check the other fuses.

 

[Spadge]

I put a brand new ribbon cable on as I had one spare. Fuses I've checked and all seem fine. I will double check again.

 

[Spadge]

Now i managed to break Fuse 112's holder off the PCB. one of those bloody days.

 

[pinballmania]

Press home square asic chip. Check for voltages at coils.

 

[Spadge]

It's all moot for a few days now, I took the power board out to fix a broken fuse holder, put it back in and smoked the board. Thats what you get for rushing and failing to check and double check. Likely new powerboard and see where it's at after that. My TAF has always hated me, been one thing after another. I'd just about got it all decent too. Fortunately my much amused engineer mate is over Monday and I'm 4500 miles away on holiday, safe from further harming it lol

 

[pinballmania]

Most power boards can be salvaged one way or another.

 

[Spadge]

Yeah, will retain the current one as a spare but putting a new one in anyway. Board is pretty common across TOM, IJ, WH20 etc as you know.

 

[RobZombie]

How long did it take you to change the ramp out of interest? I have one to fit but putting it off....

 

[Spadge]

I'd say 2-3 hrs all told.

My experience...

Unscrewed it all, snipped the flasher wires, never had the play field raised.
Maybe 30 mins to carefully get it out. Took photos of screws and fittings of the gates and such beforehand.
Soldered flashers back on new ramp (assuming yours has lamp fittings included)
Make sure the ramp diverter can move freely. I'd not checked that initially so had to loosen and sort after.
Top Bear loop switch (to left) had to be moved left so the screw would fit rather than trapping the ball.
Otherwise pretty painless and I was the same, a little wary of doing it.

 

[RobZombie]

I'd say 2-3 hrs all told.

My experience...

Unscrewed it all, snipped the flasher wires, never had the play field raised.
Maybe 30 mins to carefully get it out. Took photos of screws and fittings of the gates and such beforehand.
Soldered flashers back on new ramp (assuming yours has lamp fittings included)
Make sure the ramp diverter can move freely. I'd not checked that initially so had to loosen and sort after.
Top Bear loop switch (to left) had to be moved left so the screw would fit rather than trapping the ball.
Otherwise pretty painless and I was the same, a little wary of doing it.

Doesn't sound tooooo bad a task then. Mine is perfectly functional but does have a crack behind the protector on the Bear Ramp which was completely loose when I had it. Now it's all tightened up it isn't visible and doesn't affect gameplay in any way......and yet it nags at me knowing it's there. I have a spare ramp but maybe sensible to leave it until it gets worse(?)