Switch gremlins. Help!

[drhex]

And further on, the trough switches go via the 10 opto board, are those doing anything?
10 Opto runs switches
31-34 ball trough
35-37 Route 66 entry, Pit Stop popper, Trough eject
41-43 ZR1 entries, Skid pad entry
Do any of those work?

 

[Spandangler]

Morning peeps
Right.
I removed the pin2dmd and put the original back in, as pin2dmd piggy backs J116 so wanted to eliminate that as potential issue. Didnt make any difference.

Tested as follows.
tested voltage at TP3 which is 12v. Got 11.97v

Removed J116 and tested as follows:
Pin 1 (unused)
Pin 2 grey/yellow 15.4v
Pin 3 black 0v
Pin 4 grey 4.5v

Plugged J116 back in. Same readings

Moved to 10 opto board J3

Pin 1 black 0.5v
Pin 2 grey/yellow 14.5v

No red led on opto board

Removed J3 from opto board. Triggered switch 83 and 82, no ghost switch activations as before.

I believe the engine full stroke opto board is to register the extreme left and right on motor. Those optos work (71 and 72 I believe)

So it would seem the race track optos which aren’t working aren’t controlled by the 10 opto board.

Thanks for all your help so far.

 

[Spandangler]

And further on, the trough switches go via the 10 opto board, are those doing anything?
10 Opto runs switches
31-34 ball trough
35-37 Route 66 entry, Pit Stop popper, Trough eject
41-43 ZR1 entries, Skid pad entry
Do any of those work?

All the optos are working except trough 4 (which occasionally just activates during switch test when I’m not near the machine)
And the pit stop popper which aren’t beyond the realms of possibility that they’re just faulty optos due to it being in a flood

 

[drhex]

Interesting, don't think I ever had a broken LED on one of those. You could measure the voltage at the LED for fun and giggles.
So to recap:
- CPU works
- Most optos work
- You have phantom switches on closing the microswitches

OK, next step is checking the cabling/diodes as suggested by @Fantazia2 above. Something is wrong there:
- Non banded side of diode and white with tracer cable are on the NC (normally closed) pin of the microswitch (far end from the tab)
- Banded side of diode is on the COM (common) pin (where the tab pivots)
- Green with tracer is on the NO (normally open pin) (middle, sometimes with a crimp on shoe)

And change the LED

 

[Spandangler]

Thanks mate
Will have to order an led unless I have one to steal off an old board somewhere.

Could fixing those rogue switches cure the track optos?

Edit: in fact the track optos were working so can’t be related ??

 

[drhex]

Potentially. Are these switches 51,52,55,56? If so, there are two additional two opto boards running these. They also get their power from J116, must be daisy chained between all these boards. I'd check for power at them first. No LEDs.
And I can pop you a LED in the mail if you PM me your address.

 

[Spandangler]

Potentially. Are these switches 51,52,55,56? If so, there are two additional two opto boards running these. They also get their power from J116, must be daisy chained between all these boards. I'd check for power at them first. No LEDs.
And I can pop you a LED in the mail if you PM me your address.

They will be I’m sure mate. Theyre slot optos that register when the cars are at home or top of the track
Is there anyway I can short those switches on the cpu ?

 

[Spandangler]

Ok switches 82 and 83 were wired up wrong. (I’m blaming the other guy ) All sorted on the switches now.
Except opto 36 which is probably a dud opto.

So just racetrack optos now

Edit:

Loose connector in loom. Race track optos working ish. Still shenanigans but seems connector related.

I think we’re almost there

I need a molex extractor tool to the get the pins out the connector. Mines on for the larger connectors.

 

[Spandangler]

Thank you Chris @Fantazia2 and @drhex for taking the time to help me. Much appreciated.

 

[Arv]

I have a feeling a switch is wired back to front. But need to rule out the MPU first.

*Cough

 

[Spandangler]

*Cough

how could I. So sorry mate. Thank you