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STTNG Stopped Working...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wizbiscuit
  • Start date Start date
W

Wizbiscuit

I noticed my flashers where not working (and I am pretty sure they did before, though wouldnt swear on it), I found a blow fuse, swapped it... turned machine back on and nothing much happens, gives a loud pop from the speaker, all the red LED's on the boards in the back box are on.. you get a quick flash of lamps on the playfield (you also get this when you turn it off), but everything else is dead...

So I removed the fuse I changed and its the same, dead as knickers..

So bit unsure what this could be, now first question is do I need to take the fuses out to check they are good with my meter? I tried taking one out (thought I would take them all out one by one to test) but the bitch shattered, so unsure what the knack is?? I tested them without removing and they all seem ok, but unsure if this is proving anything...

Any help would be rather splendid... just moved and it survived that fine... just typical huh :)
 
I think sttng will have a high voltage interlock, so certain features of the game will not work whilst the coin door is open. Pray this is the problem!!! A door open on certain games will cut out the solenoids and flashers

You can buy fuse pullers from one stop pinball. There is a bit if a knack otherwise. I use bent pin nosed pliers levered under one end of the fuse to remove mine, but the fuse puller would be safer

Key question is what has changed ? Have you cleaned it, moved it, repaired it ? Collateral damage is a risk whenever you mess with a pinball

Sorry if obvious, but are you using the correct fuse ? The manual or backbox will give you the rating

Have you just moved the game ? If so an old solder splat might have shifted. This could be tough to find

Best bet to test fuses is to remove and test for continuity with a multimeter
 
Door is closed, it has been moved in a recent house move, though it was working after that and the flasher was not working before the move...

I have ordered a fuse remover as attempts to get them out last night was not good... I have a full spare set of fuses so will compare this to the manual, though the fuse I replaced did not re-blow...

So only thing that changed really was me replacing the fuse, it worked before, now it dont work with or without the replaced fuse...

Guess I will wait till the fuse remover comes, then I will yank the lot, test them one by one and check for correct rating, if this fails then I guess I will start looking at the less obvious stuff like this driver transistor..

Thanks for the advice so far....
 
While the machines disconnected it's probably worth trying the old favourite of gently but firmly re-seating all the power connectors on the board you took the fuse out of in case you nudged one loose in the process of removing the fuse.
 
Thanks all for your help, the good news is...

2015-12-03 19.37.17.jpg

I went around each connector and pulled it fully off and back on (two of three at a time), then powered the pin back up, when this didnt work I went onto the next few...

When I disconnected this one (circled) and reseated she fired up...

2015-12-04 09.26.16.jpg

After about 10 minutes it reset and would come back on, become clear that the issue is not the seating but the crimping of the cables, if you look you can see that have that "bend" of cables that have been squeezed to make a connection so suspect this may have been a problem before...

So final question... is it possible to buy new connections blocks? how is it best to crimp these? some sort of tool??

Taaaa
 
These do tend to fail. I redid mine in my funhouse

Best bet is to use crimp connectors. These are the superior alternative

This article tells you all about this issues. Andy at mania sells the connectors and a crimper. This is not your cheapest option, but if you want long term reliability, crimping is the wAy to go

Buy more than you need and have a couple of practices to get the hang of it

The pins in the board may also have dry joints/ bet pitted. Some guys repin them. Or you could just use mild emery paper to clean the pins, and reflow solder underneath. Every tnt youtube video refurb goes on about reflowing solder

http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/#looped
 
RGV said:
..... the old favourite of gently but firmly re-seating all the power connectors on the board you took the fuse out of......
Click to expand...

How do you know what all the various connectors to a board do? Some are input, some are output. Some are power, some are data. What is the key?
 
AFAIK ribbon cables are data, everything else is power distribution controlled by the onboard chipsets.

For input/ output/ specific purpose info I'd consult the board schema and wiring diags in the manual (Hell, lets be honest, if reseating everything doesn't work I usually post on here :)).
 
Yer, have a pair of Sega Astro City's, one for vertical and one for horizontal... :)
 
those re set boards are the daddy i use them all the time when on call outs works well and a much cheaper fix than re doing a 5v re build on a driver board
 
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