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SOLVED: Various coils not showing in test menu for BoP after major blowout!

Sounds daft but did you fit them (BR and Cap) the correct way round? I don't think there's much else that can blow F104 with J107 and J127 removed. It might be worth replacing them again to get F104 working.

Replace J208 and cut about 1 cm off each wire before connecting it to the new connector. Also check the male pins of J208, any green then it should be replaced as well.
 
I don’t mean to be rude but what is that wire for on j106 the plug above j107 for I am not sure it’s supposed to be there or it’s something specific to bop plus it’s a 4 pin connector on a 5 pin allocation
 
Digging into that connector with two White wires placed at J 106, the only 4-pin connector with White wires at pins 1 and 4 that I can see in the wiring details* is the 100V ac input to the display driver board, designated J 307. But it seems that the displays are working during all this? It turns out the displays have been replaced, with ones that don't use the high voltage supply.

Looking again at the picture, the two White wires aren't bundled into the playfield harness, just pushed through a gap as the flipper wiring branches from the solenoid wiring.

* and then looking at the contemporary machines, Funhouse and Harley-Davidson, as the ipdb manual for Bride of Pinbot doesn't have the Interboard Wiring pages
 
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In the bop manual j206 should have a connector on pin 5 red wire 20v which will be the flashers for the backbox I assume
I suspect that wire on there now is not supposed to be there and is incorrect hence your problem
 
CHRIS B PINBALLS said:
I don’t mean to be rude but what is that wire for on j106 the plug above j107 for I am not sure it’s supposed to be there or it’s something specific to bop plus it’s a 4 pin connector on a 5 pin allocation
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How very rude 😊

I removed J106 and now no fuse blow.

My only issues now are switch issues. Not registering balls in trough. Switch 67 for face alignment. This must be the fuzzy green stuff on the connector at J208/J209 as suggested by @Moonraker so I will clean the male pins, snip back the wires and get a new connector wired up.

This has PIN LED fitted so there was already a HV connector lying loose in the backbox - luckily I didn't try and find a home for that one as I noted early on the display had been swapped out!

So, I have no idea where this two wire connector should go - if anywhere - it is going down in to the cabinet. Will investigate tomorrow.

I found a single red wire hanging loose in the backbox - no connector on it and low and behold the other end of that wire goes to the backbox door panel - so at least I know where that one goes now. Thanks @CHRIS B PINBALLS

Few lessons for me to learn from this experience:

  1. Slow Down
  2. Consult the manual (taking account of the fact it may have errors/revisions) more frequently instead of trying to do things from memory/visual memory
  3. Label all connectors before you remove them and not after you have put them back (incorrectly in some cases)
  4. Do not remove a board late at night when you are tired
  5. My soldering skills are not as rubbish as I thought they were (since as the BRs and Capacitors I replaced seem to be doing their jobs)
  6. The patience and non-judgemental attitude of the individuals on this group is amazing. I don't know that I would have stuck with my posts as long as you all have without thinking "This idiot is an idiot, I'm not wasting any more time on him".

Thank you ever so much everyone.

I will put a final post up when I (hopefully) sort the switches issue - I've had the thing in attract mode whilst I've been typing this post and already it's fired a few random solenoids so clearly switches are triggering when they shouldn't be.
 
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Switches sorted after many scraped knuckles and much cursing.

My IDC insertion tool is rubbish (I have the black plastic one) so I bought another from Screwfix for £9 which was equally as rubbish.

Then I remembered I had some molex connectors down the garage that I bought for my VP project. Of course I did not have the 9 pin connectors so had to make up a 5 and a 4 for J207 and J209.

Spent about 20 mins looking for the green/grey wire for pin 8 of J207. "How in the hell did a thin wire like that get pulled out of the connector and drop down in to the cabinet with all these cable ties bundling the wires so tight together?" I thought/screamed to my self - then checked the manual and saw there is nothing on column 8!

Gave the male pins on J206/J207 and J208/J209 a good clean with white vinegar and then isopropyl.

The thing is finally working.

Played a couple of games with the glass off to activate all the features. So far so good.

Now on to cleaning, re-rubbering and replacing all the incandescent bulbs for LEDs.
 
You were fortunate, with that stray connector on J 106. As far as I see, it's from the transformer, supplying the ac input which once produced the + and - 100v dc rails for the original display panels. I'd change that label, maybe "Redundant High Voltage Input, Do Not Use"
 
Jay Walker said:
You were fortunate, with that stray connector on J 106. As far as I see, it's from the transformer, supplying the ac input which once produced the + and - 100v dc rails for the original display panels. I'd change that label, maybe "Redundant High Voltage Input, Do Not Use"
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Thanks. Exactly what I did - great minds think alike :-)
 
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