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Solenoid coil help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aussiewantsaps2
  • Start date Start date
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Aussiewantsaps2

I have a Bell World Defender converted for a Kiss Bally machine. Very rare but help is too. Two of the three thumper/mushrooms (not sure what you call them) are not working. All are wired etc but the two inactive ones the solenoid coils have very dark black rings that looks like burn marks. Is this the problem. They are Bally an-26-1200's. All the other solenoids work great
 
(bumpers) ,yeah prob good idea to replace them as they can burn out and cause all sorts of problems.Not familiar with the machine or coils your talking about but if you have a multimeter you can also check the little diodes(normally found next to the lugs)as these can fail.
 
where are you based, matey?

this is a friendly group, i bet there's someone nearby who'll be happy to swing by and help you through it for a cup of tea
 
Aussiewantsaps2 said:
I have a Bell World Defender converted for a Kiss Bally machine. Very rare but help is too. Two of the three thumper/mushrooms (not sure what you call them) are not working. All are wired etc but the two inactive ones the solenoid coils have very dark black rings that looks like burn marks. Is this the problem. They are Bally an-26-1200's. All the other solenoids work great
Click to expand...

cooldan said:
where are you based, matey?

this is a friendly group, i bet there's someone nearby who'll be happy to swing by and help you through it for a cup of tea
Click to expand...

Worthing , west Sussex near brighton
 
Hi, Aus

It sounds like the two coils concerned have 'locked On' and burnt themselves out - the transistors controlling them have probably failed too, so the 'Solenoid Driver' printed circuit board (used by many, many Bally games) in the backbox will require a repair or exchange, in addition to 2 replacement coils. Also check (with the power Off) if the fuses are the proper rating.
 
The solenoid board has been repaired after the previous owner cut the wires to the 2 bumbers I can see at least 1 diode that's new and smoke marks from previous diode. I have spare coils so tempted to hook up and see if it's solved. Does the fact 1 of the 3 bumpers work mean the fuses are probably ok?
 
From Brighton take a left then the second right,carry on a few hundred yards and your there!!!,where?
 
Aussiewantsaps2 said:
The solenoid board has been repaired after the previous owner cut the wires to the 2 bumbers I can see at least 1 diode that's new and smoke marks from previous diode. I have spare coils so tempted to hook up and see if it's solved. Does the fact 1 of the 3 bumpers work mean the fuses are probably ok?
Click to expand...

If the pcb has been repaired, then by all means put in the spare coils and see if the driver transistors are alright. Make sure to connect the wires correctly, though - the 43V 'live' power wires have to go to the terminals with the banded (cathode) ends of the coil diodes.

The fact that the other bumper and the rest of the solenoids work alright does show that the fuse(s) are intact, but I'd check that they're the right ampere values, just in case.

What I'm worried about is if the repaired Solenoid Driver board was connected to the burnt-out coils. If it was, then the driver transistors will have been shorted out and destroyed, requiring another repair. With fresh coils fitted, if they lock On (pull in as soon as the power is On, and remain so), then turn Off straight away and disconnect the wires from the coil terminals with the plain (anode) ends of the diodes. If the game powers up with the bumpers silent, you might well be in business. Go into test (or start a game) to check the bumpers.
 
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Hi Paul

I’m in Worthing and have emailed you, I’ll pop around soon and we can work on it together.


Until then if you want to make progress then i would measure the resistance of the three coils with the machine off, i guess they should measure around 10R. If they read nothing then they have burnt out, if the read like 3R the will need changing!

With the machine on you should measure 43V DC at the banded end of the coil AND the unbanded end WRT to ground

Assuming above measurements OK then momentarily grounding the unbanded end to ground/earth should activate that pop bumper mechanism, if it does then the problem looks to be on the driver/sol board eg transistor or wiring break

See you soon

Cheers Bob
 
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