Slow Tilt Switch WPC - Any Ideas Pls ?

[DRD]

The tilt bob on my TAF seems to make contact with the brass ring a few times before a tilt is recognised.

The slam tilts all work correctly.

I have used solvol autosol to clean the relevant parts and have cleaned that off with IPA, so I know the hanger bracket, hook, Bob and brass ring are all in good order.

This made no difference.

Does anyone have any suggestions how to cure this pls ? I am loathed to introduce additional parts - I would rather fix it properly.
But do I stick a capacitor on like the early Bally games?

Thanks

 

[Andydn]

On modern sterns you can adjust the ‘denounce’ so it doesn’t trigger until after several hits. Is it possible this is similar and it’s just a setting that needs changing?

 

[strobey]

Does it trigger a Switch Edge test every time? Will tell you if electrical or software

 

[Ped]

There's a "Tilt Warnings" section in the adjustments menu (Standard adjustments) - you can select the number of actuations of the plum bob before the warning is displayed - that's probably the issue

 

[DRD]

Thanks for the replies.

It is not a tilt warning issue (Ie kill the ball on the third tilt).

Even in switch test you can hear the Bob striking the brass ring a few times before a single switch closing is recognised.

 

[Moonraker]

I have used solvol autosol to clean the relevant parts and have cleaned that off with IPA, so I know the hanger bracket, hook, Bob and brass ring are all in good order.

Autosol and IPA...? I would have tried sandpaper first...!

Try disconnecting the tilt wires and then touch them and see if the response is instantaneous on the switch matrix which would help rule out MPU, connectors and wiring issues.

Solder the wires back on and see if it works.

 

[Jay Walker]

You're conscientious, being concerned about the tilt. The cone tilt on Wpc games is wired through the door interface board, using it to provide the diode, which is D3. The 'machine'/Cpu side is J1, with the cabinet switches (door open, Start and cone tilt) using J6. Along with the Lamp Row for the Start button lamp, again to connect the diode.

To try narrowing things down, detach J6 and link switch Column 1 (pins 7 & 8) to Row 4, pin 3. In switch tests, it should show 1,4, in play it should give a warning. If not, I'd think about a problem with the interface board, since Col. 1 is shared with the Start button in the cabinet wiring, and Row 4 is also used for the test 'switch', 2,4. So it's not likely to be something awry with the cabinet switch wiring from the Cpu, J212

Could the rod have got dirty where it contacts the hanger? I have a vague notion of some cone tilts having a bit of bare braided wire connecting between the hanger and the rod, but that was ages ago, and would be 'additional'.

 

[Epotech]

brass tarnishes so I'd do as moonraker suggests and hit it with some sandpaper