OP
OP
If the voltages go high when you test with only CN1 connected then problem is elsewhere.
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Sega baywatch 5v issue
- Thread starter Asiapinball
- Start date
OP
OP
When you tested the voltages at the fuses you should test both ends of the fuses and they should be the same? (Just in case you have a fuse with dodgy continuity which would be a really easy fix).
With just CN1 connected I get.
TP1 4.99vdc
TP3 13. 62vdc
When testing the bridge rectifier on diode setting I get 1 bad reading of 1.998 and diminishing.
Also the item on Z1 at the side of the bridge rectifier has some marking to the outside of the case were it has been resting against the bridge rectifier, Should this be changed or can I test it .
All fuse clips look good. and are strong.
TP1 4.99vdc
TP3 13. 62vdc
When testing the bridge rectifier on diode setting I get 1 bad reading of 1.998 and diminishing.
Also the item on Z1 at the side of the bridge rectifier has some marking to the outside of the case were it has been resting against the bridge rectifier, Should this be changed or can I test it .
All fuse clips look good. and are strong.
OP
OP
Test the voltages at each side of r6.
OP
OP
Was that with all connectors attached on Power supply board?
OP
OP
And what are the voltages with everything connected?
OP
OP
At both ends of R6.
OP
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Pull just CN6 (display) connector from the PSU. Leave everything else plugged in. What ar voltages at TP1 and TP3?
OP
OP
You can get some odd readings with Bridge Rectifiers when they are in circuit but they usually just stop working entirely and don't just go low voltage as your machine is doing so the BR may be OK even with that one strange reading (presumably all 4 readings that should have been around 500 were OK and the other 3 that should have been "1" were OK?). If the BR was easy to change (like the WMS ones are as they have skinny legs) its much easier to use the shotgun approach and change it out but I know it is such a pain so want to rule everything else out first.
Presumably with CN6 disconnected the game boots up and plays with sound lights etc. but just without the display working?
Where are you getting the 12v from for the colour DMD? Presumably from CN6 on the PSU Board and not its own separate supply? If so, the stock 12V supply might not like the extra demand on it. I don't have any experience of Power Supply issues with Color DMD (I don't have any) but for all my colour PIN2DMDs I run a separate power supply to them to as you often get issues if trying to run off stock 12v (mainly the PIN2DMD going blank mid game, usually when having the best multiball in your life when demands on power are highest).
For now I believe the issue is most likely with the DMD or its associated wiring pulling down the 12v which in turn is pulling down the 5v and causing resets and "strange issues"
@AlanJ is a whizz on electronics and modifications. Alan, I would be interested to know your views?
Presumably with CN6 disconnected the game boots up and plays with sound lights etc. but just without the display working?
Where are you getting the 12v from for the colour DMD? Presumably from CN6 on the PSU Board and not its own separate supply? If so, the stock 12V supply might not like the extra demand on it. I don't have any experience of Power Supply issues with Color DMD (I don't have any) but for all my colour PIN2DMDs I run a separate power supply to them to as you often get issues if trying to run off stock 12v (mainly the PIN2DMD going blank mid game, usually when having the best multiball in your life when demands on power are highest).
For now I believe the issue is most likely with the DMD or its associated wiring pulling down the 12v which in turn is pulling down the 5v and causing resets and "strange issues"
@AlanJ is a whizz on electronics and modifications. Alan, I would be interested to know your views?
No the game is not booting and playing with CN6 disconnected just the GI lighting up. No leds showing on the main board, no display. With CN6 disconnected . With CN6 connected The GL lights are on, no boot up or sounds +5v and PIA leds on and no display.
I'd try a new PSU board if you have one spare.
OP
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Sorry I meant cn5 not cn6
OP
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That's my normal diagnostic technique but as this psu is only found in the large dmd segas it is rare to have spares.
I am ooop north in Yorkshire but thanks for the offer. When life stops beating me up for a bit I will get in touch with Jim@mypinballs as he has work on the boards in the past. It is beyond me and I certainly don't want to make matters worse on it.
