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Scared Stiff crate multiball issue

hynesceltics said:
I have the auto eddy board installed from Tangles. I was having issues with the original even when adjusted thats why i replaced it but still no good.
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Did you replace the sensor as well? That stopped false hits on my crate.
 
hynesceltics said:
Okay. The problem is definitely the optos. As the game is on for a while if i do certain thing to the 16 opto board i get a crazy amount of switches fire. Normally it was wiggling the wires on J3 but this timepushing the back of the pins in U5 was firing every opto in the game. Board is brand new so obviously LM339 is also new. Where should i go from here?
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Repin the headers to the opto board. Use molex instead of IDC.

@David retro stocks the header crimps and I think the crimper?
 
s000m said:
Repin the headers to the opto board. Use molex instead of IDC.

@David retro stocks the header crimps and I think the crimper?
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Thats one of my next moves. Ordered parts and crimper from Pinball Haus here in Aus. Also gonna measure the 12v once the games been on a while. Seems to be when it starts happening.
 
You need to get the connector replaced first. You did say that it was a new opto board, however, if the opto board is an original 30 year old board then the electrolytic capacitor has more than likely leaked and will need replacement with possible pcb track repair work.
 
Unregulated 12v on the power driver is giving me 12.1v however pins 1 on J2 and J4 are reading 11.6v. Im assuming thats where i measure the voltage coming in? seems a little low
 
Moonraker said:
You need to get the connector replaced first. You did say that it was a new opto board, however, if the opto board is an original 30 year old board then the electrolytic capacitor has more than likely leaked and will need replacement with possible pcb track repair work.
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Yes i know im waiting for the parts and then ill swap it over. Then at least ill be able to rule out that connector. The opto board is not an original, its an aftermarket remake.
 
J205 are the direct switches from the cabinet (the ones on the coin door and coin chutes). The switches are connected to J206 (columns) and J208 (rows). The columns are driven with 12V pulses which will be integrated by your DMM and therefore show something lower. This isn't your issue. Change the connectors (please DON'T solder the cables to the headers as you will then have to replace plug and header). Once connections are solid and wiggling/bumping doesn't create switch closures report back.
 
drhex said:
J205 are the direct switches from the cabinet (the ones on the coin door and coin chutes). The switches are connected to J206 (columns) and J208 (rows). The columns are driven with 12V pulses which will be integrated by your DMM and therefore show something lower. This isn't your issue. Change the connectors (please DON'T solder the cables to the headers as you will then have to replace plug and header). Once connections are solid and wiggling/bumping doesn't create switch closures report back.
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Update on this, i replaced the suspect connector last night with molex and im still having the issue. Literally first game the game ended my crate multiball early. Another member on here was nice enough to send me a video guide on all the connectors i should look at replacing with molex. So my next step is to buy all the connector sizes i need and start replacing them all from the trough to the switch connector to the MPU. Ill post another update once i get all my connectors and change them over.
 
Long time since I had a SS - as far as I remember you can sink balls continuously into the crate ("I am having multiple jackpots") while multiball is ongoing and they are being put back in play via the boney beast ramp popper. If that is correct, the game must think that one ball has drained, i.e. outhole/trough switch or shooter lane. Don't think this is the crate.
 
drhex said:
Long time since I had a SS - as far as I remember you can sink balls continuously into the crate ("I am having multiple jackpots") while multiball is ongoing and they are being put back in play via the boney beast ramp popper. If that is correct, the game must think that one ball has drained, i.e. outhole/trough switch or shooter lane. Don't think this is the crate.
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In my experience two things can cause the MB to end early.

#1
During the animation sequence if a crate hit registers it breaks the start of the MB and goes back to single ball play whilst still spitting an additional ball into the shooter lane.

#2
The game registers a ball drain or another ball entering a trough ball slot during the animation sequence.

Things I would do:

Replace the board with an Auto Eddy board and sensor.

Clean the Opto's or replace the trough emitter and receivers entirely.

Repin the headers on the trough board and MPU switch headers to Molex instead of IDC.

I had the exact same issue and this solved it for me.
 
s000m said:
In my experience two things can cause the MB to end early.

#1
During the animation sequence if a crate hit registers it breaks the start of the MB and goes back to single ball play whilst still spitting an additional ball into the shooter lane.

#2
The game registers a ball drain or another ball entering a trough ball slot during the animation sequence.

Things I would do:

Replace the board with an Auto Eddy board and sensor.

Clean the Opto's or replace the trough emitter and receivers entirely.

Repin the headers on the trough board and MPU switch headers to Molex instead of IDC.

I had the exact same issue and this solved it for me.
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You mentioned these things in the video you sent me and explained it all very well again here. I just received all my molex parts and plan on replacing all the connectors mentioned in your post/video when i get time. While i was waiting for my parts, i did however thought it would be interesting to record under the playfield during a game to see if the crate sensor LED registers a false hit during the beginning of the MB animations before it bugs out. On the game i captured the LED did not light up during the issue so im thinking the problem on the trough or MPU connectors. The trough boards are new so ill just have to change the connectors and inspect the MPU.
 
Please stop making extra work for yourself and possibly creating even more issues or faults. At this time you do not need to replace *all* connectors only the one from your video clip that activated the switch when you wiggled the wiring loom it is connected to when in test mode.

I am thinking at this point you might be better getting a proffessional repairer in to do this as getting it wrong replacing the connector will lead to more issues. Plus if that doesn't resolve the issue then it looks even more like the cause will be a broken wire, or caused by parts that you've already replaced (new parts can be faulty, or blown up if incorrectly fitted).
 
Moonraker said:
Please stop making extra work for yourself and possibly creating even more issues or faults. At this time you do not need to replace *all* connectors only the one from your video clip that activated the switch when you wiggled the wiring loom it is connected to when in test mode.

I am thinking at this point you might be better getting a proffessional repairer in to do this as getting it wrong replacing the connector will lead to more issues. Plus if that doesn't resolve the issue then it looks even more like the cause will be a broken wire, or caused by parts that you've already replaced (new parts can be faulty, or blown up if incorrectly fitted).
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I have replaced the connector from the video and all the switches associated with it are working fine but im still having the crate multiball problem. Ill keep looking for a broken wire though but i dont think it would hurt to replace the trough connectors
 
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hynesceltics said:
I have replaced the connector from the video and all the switches associated with it are working fine but im still having the crate multiball problem. Ill keep looking for a broken wire though but i dont think it would hurt to replace the trough connectors
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Have you wiggled the wires again in the same place to see if it gives the same result...?
 
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