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Rottendog service a total disgrace.

BallyWilliams suck

BallyWilliams suck

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
457
I've had a few issues with a couple of the aftermarket Rottendog boards - and Jim, who I believe owns / runs the company is supposed to offer help and support. Unfortunately, he's refused to answer my emails, the couple that he did answer totally ignored my comments, and offered no solutions.

Poor Sean at pinball palace, who offers a great service has tried multiple times to help, but the questions remain ananswered. Apparently the rottendog email system has been "playing up" for months so he strategically doesn't answer emails of complaint.

First issue - the data east flipper boards (flp023) offer a solution to all data east games. They also cater for three flipper games - like Jurassic park.
I have FOUR Rottendog flipper boards here. All work just fine. All work perfectly in Star Wars (2 flipper), and Jurassic park (3 flipper). But they WONT operate in a Tommy. I've got two Tommy games, and was able to test in a third (customers game) -and the boards will NOT work.

The dip switch settings are the same for all three flipper games - despite two games (gnr and Tommy) having a third flipper (on the LEFT, not the right).

I've emailed and asked if there is a different dip switch setting, and cannot get a reply that addresses my comments. I asked for updated schematics - as the printed ones on the website and supplied are incorrect, but am unable to get anything other than a reply about nothing.

The "all in one" Williams CPU and driver was advertised and printed up as working in hyperball. Unfortunately, that is incorrect too.

Once again, Sean has tried his best to help with this - but he can't answer certain questions. Maybe Jim could comment, or anyone else who's managed to get settings to use these boards in Tommy or gnr.
 
I have two rottendog boards, as fitted to my tz when I bought it

Sean was great, he replaced my defective fliptronics board even though I was not the original buyer so I was not technically covered by the warranty

I just gave up on rottendog though. The mpu and fliptronics boards were both unreliable crap in my opinion. I have replaced these aftermarket rotten dogs with original wpc boards. I have found repaired originals to be a much better alternative
 
He's replied - twice. Both times answering none of the questions I asked. I re-asked, and got no reply at all.

Sean's in a difficult position, because he's tried to help - but as the UK supplier he's going to get the stick for the poor service from rottendog.

The power boards seem to be quite unreliable also, as I've got a few that have gone up in flames. Repairing the originals seems to be a better option.
 
Anyone seen:

Pindorabox.com

They seem to have ripped off all the rottendog boards and are just selling blatant copies. Perhaps their customer service is better than Jim's?
 
I spotted a Pindora board the other day... what was it...?

I think it might have been a remake Bally Say-It-Again echo board as used on CENTAUR. But it's an exact copy of a homebrew SIA, the plans for which are freely available on the internet.

I've also looked at Rottendog's Bally regulator board BPS022 and think the 190V regulator circuit is very poor offering no protection for the gas discharge displays. And I've got a Rottendog Lamp Driver with burnt tracks because they're way too thin. Funnily enough it's no longer listed as a product on their website.
 
It does seem to be an issue. The boards aren't made very well, poorly thought out in many cases, made to poor standards.

I hope Sean decides to stock boards from competitors, as the only strong link here is his customer service and his attempts to put right what rottendog seem to refuse to want to do.

I bought a gottlieb system 1 power supply at the recent show. Another rottendog product. It's been up in flames (!), and I've rebuilt the board - but can't find a value for l1 (the inductor / choke). The schematics don't help (no value given!) and can't get a response from rottendog.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
Pindorabox.com is a supplier of pinball pcbs.

They all seem to be direct copies of other people's pcbs. But cheaper.

Is there no issues with copying rottendog boards? As either Jim isn't interested, or there's nothing he can do about it.
 
I'm not sure what the deal is with recreating boards? I assume that as long as you're obviously making you're own brand and not creating a copy/counterfeit then you're good because you're just fabriacating third-party replacements.

The original schematics are freely available in the owners manuals so I don't see any problem replicating the original designs. To be honest the power supplies are so simple I can't see there's much improvement to be had other than working around now obsolete components like the LM323K used in the Bally +5V regulator circuit.

But that's where I have an issue with the Rottendog regulator designs. They use all modern components and i don't think they're quite right. I can't remember the exact details but I seem to recall the +190V regulator for the Bally displays was so basic it had no fault protection or current limiting. I'm not surprised you've had some catch fire!

This is actually something I've been looking into. I'm very impressed with the recreations Jim aka myPinballs has made such as the SQUAWK & TALK sound board. I'd like to have a go at recreating some of the other boards such as the SAY-IT-AGAIN, power supplies, aux lamp boards, extender boards etc., all for my old Bally games.

Let me know what you think would be good to make?
 
make some WPC95 boards, they're so rare now they fetch top dollar even with heat damage - and it's the most popular boardset by far, so you'd have no shortage of customers worldwide.

specifically i mean the CPUs (A-20119, A-21377 and A-21369 were used in WPC-95 games. All versions of these boards are interchangeable between WPC-95 games,), powerdriver board A20028, and sound board A20516
 
cooldan said:
make some WPC95 boards, they're so rare now they fetch top dollar even with heat damage - and it's the most popular boardset by far, so you'd have no shortage of customers worldwide.

specifically i mean the CPUs (A-20119, A-21377 and A-21369 were used in WPC-95 games. All versions of these boards are interchangeable between WPC-95 games,), powerdriver board A20028, and sound board A20516
Click to expand...
Had a look at these as I'm not familiar. Think I'll try something a little less involved to start with! Never say never though... im going to show them to my friend who runs a business making custom circuit boards.
 
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Nedreud said:
Had a look at these as I'm not familiar. Think I'll try something a little less involved to start with! Never say never though... im going to show them to my friend who runs a business making custom circuit boards.
Click to expand...

Good on you for trying, I find electronics bind boggling :-o
 
Has anyone got a Tommy or a GNR in their collection, and also possesses a flp023 rottendog flipper board?

I'd love to have a third opinion on this.....!
 
I had a Baywatch which was giving me a phantom switch error. I replaced loads of diodes trying to chase the fault. In the end Andy N came out and he narrowed it down to the replacement rottendog flipper opto board in the cabinet. For some reason it was giving random slam tilts. We replaced that with an original one and problem was solved.
 
Believe it or not, nearly a year has passed with me trying to get an answer from Jim, and even with Sean's help over the last month or three, we're still no closer.

It's not like I waited a week before I posted my findings. I think a year is long enough for most people.

The schematics that came with my gottlieb system one power board were printed half on, half off the piece of paper.

A local chappy to me has ordered pcbs and didn't work directly out the box. Surprising as they supposedly test each one. Which they obviously don't, as I've had the same issue. Just repaired them myself....
 
Not sure I should be helping someone whose nickname is @BallyWilliams suck, what with me being a Bally-Boy pinball collector... ;)

But, which board(s) are you specifically having problems with? The FLP023 flipper board? What else?

Only Rottendog board I've got is the BPS018 power supply for the oldest Bally's, but I've no use for it because I rebuilt the original in my PARAGON, so I can't vouch for it either good or bad.
 
My Rottendog MPU was fitted with a whole bank of the wrong component type seemingly from new (based on the solder work) causing all feature lights to lock on. Jim was responsive to my emails and confirmed that they're all individually tested :hmm:
 
The flp023 came with the wrong components installed too. I checked online, and the design had been updated - but it seems the distributors hadn't been told. I had to replace the components myself.

My main gripe is the flp023 seemingly doesn't work on any game with a third flipper (on the upper LEFT). When I told Jim about this problem, he responded by telling me he didn't know any games had a third LEFT flipper. Very worrying for someone who's supposed to be an expert....
After this useful response, I emailed several times my findings and was just ignored.
 
Nedreud said:
I'm not sure what the deal is with recreating boards? I assume that as long as you're obviously making you're own brand and not creating a copy/counterfeit then you're good because you're just fabriacating third-party replacements.

The original schematics are freely available in the owners manuals so I don't see any problem replicating the original designs. To be honest the power supplies are so simple I can't see there's much improvement to be had other than working around now obsolete components like the LM323K used in the Bally +5V regulator circuit.

But that's where I have an issue with the Rottendog regulator designs. They use all modern components and i don't think they're quite right. I can't remember the exact details but I seem to recall the +190V regulator for the Bally displays was so basic it had no fault protection or current limiting. I'm not surprised you've had some catch fire!

This is actually something I've been looking into. I'm very impressed with the recreations Jim aka myPinballs has made such as the SQUAWK & TALK sound board. I'd like to have a go at recreating some of the other boards such as the SAY-IT-AGAIN, power supplies, aux lamp boards, extender boards etc., all for my old Bally games.

Let me know what you think would be good to make?
Click to expand...
Say It Again that could fit any Squawk and Talk. Although I believe the version 1 S&T board will be trickier as the pinouts to add the Say It Again weren't added until version 2.
 
The issue with X pin seems to be the usage of surface mount parts.

I'd prefer to have through hole parts, but designed properly.
 
BallyWilliams suck said:
When I told Jim about this problem, he responded by telling me he didn't know any games had a third LEFT flipper.
Click to expand...
What the actual f***? Well, that's the first and final nail in the coffin for using Rottendog in any of my pins!

stoptap said:
Say It Again that could fit any Squawk and Talk. Although I believe the version 1 S&T board will be trickier as the pinouts to add the Say It Again weren't added until version 2.
Click to expand...
Would need to look into this. Not sure if it's just a lack of the right connector pins or any actual modification to the design although I'm sure it could be hacked in. The problem would be that it wouldn't be a "Plug and Play" solution as could potentially require modification and soldering skills. Later revisions not a problem at all.
 
BallyWilliams suck said:
The flp023 came with the wrong components installed too. I checked online, and the design had been updated - but it seems the distributors hadn't been told. I had to replace the components myself.

My main gripe is the flp023 seemingly doesn't work on any game with a third flipper (on the upper LEFT). When I told Jim about this problem, he responded by telling me he didn't know any games had a third LEFT flipper. Very worrying for someone who's supposed to be an expert....
After this useful response, I emailed several times my findings and was just ignored.
Click to expand...

Maybe he meant 'any games with three l/h flippers', a la Road Show.
 
"Data East never used (at least to my knowledge) an upper left flipper. In one of their last games (WWF) they used 4 flippers (2 lower and 2 upper) but they used quantity 2 flipper boards to do this"

Taken directly from one of the only two replies I've received from Jim. If these guys are supplying new pcbs for old games, you'd at least think they'd check them in all the games they advertise them for. Clearly never checked in a Tommy - as they don't work in that game (but the same board will function fine in a Jurassic park (third upper flipper RIGHT side)).
I could Appreciate it if the game was extremely scarce - but Tommy and GnR are hardly impossible to find.

I'd also think that the sheer amount of these boards sold worldwide, makes them partially responsible to look into customer and distributor complaints. So far, they've not only ignored my emails, but refused to answer any questions I posed on the two replies I did get.

Not good service for a supposedly quality manufacturer of boards.

I think I'll have to take this thread to pinside, as perhaps the US market is bigger for these boards.
 
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BallyWilliams suck said:
"Data East never used (at least to my knowledge) an upper left flipper. In one of their last games (WWF) they used 4 flippers (2 lower and 2 upper) but they used quantity 2 flipper boards to do this"

Taken directly from one of the only two replies I've received from Jim. If these guys are supplying new pcbs for old games, you'd at least think they'd check them in all the games they advertise them for. Clearly never checked in a Tommy - as they don't work in that game (but the same board will function fine in a Jurassic park (third upper flipper RIGHT side)).
I could Appreciate it if the game was extremely scarce - but Tommy and GnR are hardly impossible to find.

I'd also think that the sheer amount of these boards sold worldwide, makes them partially responsible to look into customer and distributor complaints. So far, they've not only ignored my emails, but refused to answer any questions I posed on the two replies I did get.

Not good service for a supposedly quality manufacturer of boards.

I think I'll have to take this thread to pinside, as perhaps the US market is bigger for these boards.
Click to expand...

That last sentence sounds like a good idea - if only because you'll get more consumers looking at it which might lead to some action.
 
BallyWilliams suck said:
"Data East never used (at least to my knowledge) an upper left flipper. In one of their last games (WWF) they used 4 flippers (2 lower and 2 upper) but they used quantity 2 flipper boards to do this"

Taken directly from one of the only two replies I've received from Jim. If these guys are supplying new pcbs for old games, you'd at least think they'd check them in all the games they advertise them for. Clearly never checked in a Tommy - as they don't work in that game (but the same board will function fine in a Jurassic park (third upper flipper RIGHT side)).
I could Appreciate it if the game was extremely scarce - but Tommy and GnR are hardly impossible to find.

I'd also think that the sheer amount of these boards sold worldwide, makes them partially responsible to look into customer and distributor complaints. So far, they've not only ignored my emails, but refused to answer any questions I posed on the two replies I did get.

Not good service for a supposedly quality manufacturer of boards.

I think I'll have to take this thread to pinside, as perhaps the US market is bigger for these boards.
Click to expand...

That rules out a possible misunderstanding, then.

It may be something of a bodge, but is it feasible to alter the flipper/switch wiring to drive the upper left flipper as if it's an upper right one, as on Jurassic Park? Not that you should need to, but it may be a way round this problem.
 
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I'm sure it's technically possible - although this probably wouldn't help everyone else
Out there. Plus, if i alter the board, id have to alter it back to use on another game.....
 
Sorry for thread revival ,I’m not getting the high voltage on a new rottendog solenoid board
Is there anyone repairs these .
When I put the old solenoid board in the scoreboards are working ,so it’s not a wiring or connector problem as I first thought
Or even does anyone have the email address to contact rotten dog
This is the second one of these boards ,I got it on eBay and it was replaced ,but don’t want to be torturing the seller
 
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