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Polishing Mylar coating?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Friz
  • Start date Start date
F

Friz

In the Process of stripping my playfield, re-rubbering, cleaning all metalwork etc and now I have everything stripped off Im at the stage of cleaning and polishing the actual playfield. The lacquered artwork isn't a problem, magic eraser, novus and a variety of my car valeting kit have brought that up like new but the playfield has been Mylar coated from the factory and I just cant seem to make any impact on it, its smooth and scratch free but its just not glossy at all like the un-coated areas.

Has anyone got any tips for polishing Mylar coating or know if it can even be done?
 
Some people testify to great results using the Treasure Cove product, even on mylar.

http://www.treasure-cove.net/PolishingKit.htm

My own opinion is a well worn mylar is never, ever gonna look like clearcoat etc, but I guess really going to town on it with various products and pads should improve it to some extent.

What game is it ? Depending on era of game removal of the mylar *could* be a risky move - with possible loss of artwork.
 
i read about removing it but from what i understood, it will be near impossible to remove it without some playfield lift.

its not cloudy, damaged,peeling or bubbly so i don't really want to remove it, just make it have more of a shine and glossy appearance.

The game is operation thunder BTW,
 
I've seen someone Polish Mylar up like glass!! They said it took many hours of polishing and buffing.
I've had good results with treasure cove. Mylar doesn't bother me. All 5 of my games have it.
Can't be ****d with removing it.
Get your novus out and buff the ****er that's what I say. Then give it some wax.
 
I think ill get a 4 inch buffing pad drill attachment and try again, Novus by hand just doesnt make a dent on it.

Next step after that will be Treasure cove i think!
 
I don't want to teach people to suck eggs but you are leaving the Novus on long enough for it to dry (15 mins or more) before buffing?
 
try a very small amount of heat ( eg a small blow tourch ) as only want to wave it over the surface dont hold it in one place and dont get it hot.
the heat will reactivate the polymers in the material and start to 'remember' its original state ( we use it all the time for scratches on our vinyls and polycarb products etc )

DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK, if you have an old PF or if someone else does try it on that first and see if it will work.
 
moonraker - ha, yes, normally work it in and then leave it to haze and the buff off.

Absolute control - i think ill leave that as a last measure, sounds well too easy to mess up!
 
Friz said:
Absolute control - i think ill leave that as a last measure, sounds well too easy to mess up!
Click to expand...

Pretty much the same with removing the mylar - heat up or freeze before pulling off the playfield.

As Grizz has said the best bet is to build up several layers of polish.
 
GrizZ said:
Some people testify to great results using the Treasure Cove product, even on mylar.

http://www.treasure-cove.net/PolishingKit.htm

My own opinion is a well worn mylar is never, ever gonna look like clearcoat etc, but I guess really going to town on it with various products and pads should improve it to some extent.

What game is it ? Depending on era of game removal of the mylar *could* be a risky move - with possible loss of artwork.
Click to expand...


I have used the Treasure Cove kit with great results. It will greatly improve the appearance. I have also tried removing mylar using the canned air approach. I did it once, will never do it again. I had two PinBots, one I polished, the other, I removed the mylar. I still have the polished one, the other one I sold at auction.

Hope that helps,

Mike
 
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