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Pinbot does not want to boot

What do you think is it ok if I measure beetveen c30 + and tp ground 2.8v value?
Just looked at the schematic - C30 is a good shout. Cap C30 and R55 and R56 look to provide a voltage delay. Maybe they are stopping reset line? If you have another 22uF cap parallel it up.
 
I replaced it already but nothing changed.
Also replaced all the transistors in the reset section because there was some oxidation. And I checked the resistors as well.
The 10 ohms resistor when I measured itsomtime showed 17 ohms somtime 12ohms.
I also jumpered the reset pin to ground
 
Mate, you have me beat. I will have think but not sure what to check next.

Someone on here more experienced with SYS 11 is bound to have some ideas.
 
Thank you for your help anyway.
Im thinking maybe the rom faulty or the cpu
Have a good night
 
A quick Google just found this:

Check the 74LS244 chips at U11 and U13.
If either of these two chips is bad, the game will never boot. Check both of these chips using your multimeter with the game off. You should get a reading between .4 and .6 volts. If you get a short (zero) reading, replace that chip.
 
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I would disconnect every board apart from the CPU and ignore that for now. Until you have a good, booting CPU it is not worth going any further with other boards.

Take a photo around the batteries..... or where they used to be......
 
I would disconnect every board apart from the CPU and ignore that for now. Until you have a good, booting CPU it is not worth going any further with other boards.

Take a photo around the batteries..... or where they used to be......
Ok thank you for your help
 

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You've got battery damage to those PIAs.
 
Ok thank you should I replace the Pias or just clean it?
 
All needs cleaning. And that soldering on the 7407 is terrible, that needs sorting.
 
Battery corrosion like that I normally categorise as beyond economical repair as in it's better to buy a replacement board than spend many, many hours repairing the corrosion. There is a massive amount of repair work to do.
 
Battery corrosion like that I normally categorise as beyond economical repair as in it's better to buy a replacement board than spend many, many hours repairing the corrosion. There is a massive amount of repair work to do.
Ok thank you for your help
 
Not yet sorry I will able to check the cpu and the roms soon.
You know I dont want to throw the board out. I like to repair things this is my hobby so the time what I spend on it does not really matter.
 
You know I dont want to throw the board out. I like to repair things this is my hobby so the time what I spend on it does not really matter.

Very noble and full of good intentions.

Best start with have you a professional solder station that has de-soldering capabilities ? If not best find one, fine tip temperature controlled to 400 deg.
Next best source ALL the components shown in the last two pictures you provided above. 6821's are becoming increasingly difficult to find. Work out how much it will cost you.
Then you need to remove all affected components, where the solder has turned green, white or dark grey or indeed any other colour other than nice shiny silver.
Then you need to scrub the tracks to remove the worst, then use a neturalising solution and repair any damaged tracks then start re-populating and soldering the replacement components.
I would continuity test each leg soldered to avoid problematic fault finding once the board has been repopulated.
 
Very noble and full of good intentions.

Best start with have you a professional solder station that has de-soldering capabilities ? If not best find one, fine tip temperature controlled to 400 deg.
Next best source ALL the components shown in the last two pictures you provided above. 6821's are becoming increasingly difficult to find. Work out how much it will cost you.
Then you need to remove all affected components, where the solder has turned green, white or dark grey or indeed any other colour other than nice shiny silver.
Then you need to scrub the tracks to remove the worst, then use a neturalising solution and repair any damaged tracks then start re-populating and soldering the replacement components.
I would continuity test each leg soldered to avoid problematic fault finding once the board has been repopulated.
Thanks I did similar before on a wpc mpu which had battery damege and I could repair it still working for 1.5 years. I neatralized the board and changed all the components which was affected.
I already find 6821 it was not a problemand
I have soldering station.
 
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