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Pcb trace sparks.

Sounduser

Registered
5Years
Joined
Sep 6, 2015
Messages
278
Location
Solihull
I'm getting Pcb trace sparks. Like tiny little led pixels.
Couldn't get a video. But the board doesn't feel damp.
Does it need cleaning?
You can see the discoloured board between the fuses.
Thanks. i1283.photobucket.com_albums_a545_shootingpigeons_DSC_0130_zpssepv0umw.jpg
 
Your capacitors have leaked. The ones above the big blue ones most likely, You'll need to remove the caps, and any other surrounding components and scrub the board with isotropy alcohol, making sure to get all the conductive electrolyte off.

You will need to be very careful when desoldering the capacitors as it will be easy to damage tracks and thru-holes, as the electrolyte is corrosive and weakens the copper
 
Where is the best place to order small quantities of caps from?
I've had some quite suspect ones from eBay before.
 
Good call on the black caps. I've removed the board. One of the black caps looks very suspect. (the smallest one)
There is a little oil slick all around if you look in the right light.
 
I'll replace the black caps. And test the nichicon ones on my cheap lcr meter.
Is there anything worth checking or replacing while the board is out?

Thanks.
 
I'll replace the black caps. And test the nichicon ones on my cheap lcr meter.
Is there anything worth checking or replacing while the board is out?

Thanks.

There is a good chance that the big caps will be good, but all others will want to be replaced. make sure you remove any components that are near to the leaked capacitor and scrub underneath them. You've got to make sure all the electrolyte is removed .

Good luck :thumbs:
 
Found two leaking. One of which was completely dead.
This board really is fragile. The copper traces are bubbly on the back. Are they meant to be like that? Or is it have nadgered?
 
Ordered caps. I think someone has had a go before. There is one marked as 25v on the power supply diagram. But was fitted with 16v. It was also a different brand.
 
i1283.photobucket.com_albums_a545_shootingpigeons_DSC_0142_zpsgammtut3.jpg
I hope size doesn't matter. These ones are smaller than the ones I took out. I got them from Farnell and they're Panasonic.
The tracks were totally corroded under the two caps. Had to bodge with resistor legs. I've got some green solder mask paint after I clean the flux off.
Should be fine.
Some one the through holes with tracks only on one side came clean out. All the continuity test fine.
 
Looking at the board. That cap probably gets quite hot. Between a heat sink and a rectifier.
 
i1283.photobucket.com_albums_a545_shootingpigeons_DSC_0142_zpsgammtut3.jpg
I hope size doesn't matter. These ones are smaller than the ones I took out. I got them from Farnell and they're Panasonic.
The tracks were totally corroded under the two caps. Had to bodge with resistor legs. I've got some green solder mask paint after I clean the flux off.
Should be fine.
Some one the through holes with tracks only on one side came clean out. All the continuity test fine.

Good work, Panasonic are my brand of choice.

Because those capacitors are sitting abit high due to your top side trace repairs, I would strongly recommend you glue those components down. The vibrations from being in a pinball machine will otherwise start to crack the solder joints.

Get "neutral cure" clear or white silicone (check ebay for cheap) and apply plenty around the base of the capacitors. The neutral cure is the important bit. It will take hours to dry, but once it does, it is very flexible and long lasting so will protect them
 
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