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Mylar removal WPT

SteadyP

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Joined
May 25, 2020
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Cullercoats
Want to remove a panel of Mylar over a section of the lower playfield using freeze method and clean off glue residue with some goo gone- just concerned about damaging the DMD poker hand display which is sitting under part of the Mylar. Any tips from someone familiar with this game? How stripped out should the playfield be before I start- Mylar covers area between flippers up to midway across the playfield poker hand DMD, so is close to the slingshots and also in lanes. Thanks
 
Get a Stanley knife blade and use a sawing action as you spray underneath the Mylar .,any bits that don’t instantly freeze off may pull the clear insert and will easily damage it
 
There are a line of inserts running up the middle so fingers crossed. Will any freeze spray do or do they reach different temperatures? Was thinking of just getting keyboard airspray off Amazon
 
To be honest if the insert is ok I would cut around that leaving Mylar on the insert and try and get the rest off .. insert clear is really fragile and if anything is going to separate the clear it’s heat .. i have restored some where every single insert decal has come off, even with freeze and it’s not a good sight
 
Plus one above, my Mylar lifted some printed and clear inserts( these are also Mylar) when I used heat method (assume risk is there with feeeze method). Also you need as much space as possible for the goo gone flour method as the flour goes everywhere despite your best efforts, and don’t spray it directly onto playfield as the spray splashes everywhere too.
 
Can you post some snaps ? Show us how bad it is

Mylar removal can go horribly, horribly wrong and cause irreparable damage that would seriously devalue your game and render it very difficult to sell. Think twice before you do this.

I owned a WPT. It is a fun game but not valuable or sought after. If you destroy the playfield by removing Mylar, replacing it or getting it restored would be throwing good money after bad.

I do not know how robust a Stern playfield is. We are fairly well versed on here with older games - SS Bally, System 11, WPC ...

Mylar removal on Bally SS and System 11 is seriously risky. WPC is much safer

I don't recall anyone pulling mylar on a Stern SAM.
 
Will get the glass out at some point this week and will take a few pics, Mylar isn’t that bad condition but there’s a few splits in it under the slingshots on each side. Doesn’t affect gameplay but doesn’t look very nice
 
Can you post some snaps ? Show us how bad it is

Mylar removal can go horribly, horribly wrong and cause irreparable damage that would seriously devalue your game and render it very difficult to sell. Think twice before you do this.

I owned a WPT. It is a fun game but not valuable or sought after. If you destroy the playfield by removing Mylar, replacing it or getting it restored would be throwing good money after bad.

I do not know how robust a Stern playfield is. We are fairly well versed on here with older games - SS Bally, System 11, WPC ...

Mylar removal on Bally SS and System 11 is seriously risky. WPC is much safer

I don't recall anyone pulling mylar on a Stern SAM.
Old thread - but I finally summoned up the bottle to have a go at this today. I’m 99% happy- used a heat gun and some Goo Gone. A tiny bit of clear lifted on the red Atlantic City insert quite soon into removal which made me sh*t a brick; otherwise it was a success and I’m relieved 😅 it’s all over. I think had I left it on another year or so, the Mylar would’ve bonded totally and pulled more art off the inserts. Here’s some before pics with cracked Mylar under the slings and dirty edges over the playfield….
 

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After pics below. Chuffed with how shiny and new it looks compared to the dull, cracking protector that was on before….Thanks for the advice all. :thumbs:
 

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Looks great. Job well done. What would you say is a correct pricing for one of these that needs some tlc but is in decent condition apart from a small chunk missing in the shooter trough?

Cheers, Drew
 
£3k ish depending on the condition- was offered a swap recently on a BBH which would’ve been a straight swap. Mine’s in decent nick- a few signs of being moved around on the cab. It also has a bit of wear in the shooter lane which you’d expect from a 2006 game. I’ve found it easy to work on and being a SAM system it been reliable in the 2 or so years I’ve owned it. Underrated but bought on here after listening to a lot of recommendations about not buying a starter pin with a shallow code. This is a Keith Johnson code I believe so there’s plenty to go for and some nice variations in mode with all the drop targets. Nice Ritchie flow if you disable the up- post on the left ramp during the turn and flop actions. Makes it a much more enjoyable time.
 
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