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Mitre saw stand for playfield swap?

PinIB

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Jul 16, 2020
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Has anyone used one of these or similar for a playfield swap? Are there any better options (other than getting someone else to do the swap!)?
 
I used two of those for my Scared Stiff playfield swap.

The main issue is you can't rotate so you'll need to do the swap in halves.

Its best to remove the tops side from within the cabinet (ramps, plastics, posts etc) then place it upside down on the saw.

Then migrate the bottom side first, put back inside the cab when finished and populate topside back inside the cabinet.

Have a look at my Scared Stiff playfield swap for a visual:

 
I use four sawhorses, as per @soom, vacate the top, including the bumpers, first. I usually do this with the playfield still in the machine, especially on WPC. Then major assemblies on the bottom, remove playfield from machine onto sawhorses with new field side by side, switch rails (very important to give the new playfield stability, careful as they may hide screws for the brackets), then unscrew lamps and all the rest. I have tried placing the old playfield on the new one, unscrewing all and pulling it out in the past. Works but can leave dirt on the new playfield. Clean cables and replace anything untoward while still lying on the old playfield. Move everything over, screw things down, into machine, complete bottom, add top. All easily doable alone.
 
Yes - other than making my own the cost of off the shelf rotisserie’s is extortionate.

I’ve used both, purpose made rotisseries and home made ones and agree, off the shelf rotisseries are a lot.

If it’s a one off PF swap then it not worth it, but if you think your do more in the future it’s worth paying the extra ££ imo.
 
Believe or not I started making a rotisserie today with bits I have in the garage plus a few purchases off eBay.

I might go down the route of old playfield on a mitre stand and new one on the rotisserie to make things slightly easier.

I’ll do a shop log when I’ve got my chrome back. I’m trying a mint restoration of Whirlwind but have this DE JP freeloading on the project - everything I do for the Whirlwind I end up doing for the JP. Both in bits and cabinets being done simultaneously to save a bit of time.
 
cost me well over £100 to make my rotisserie ,the metal isn’t cheap. once i’ve done my final 3 playfield swaps next year, I’ll offer it up for loan out
If I remember correctly, when I made my original rotisserie, after the mitre saw stand itself, it was the metal box section and angle that was the most expensive part to get.
 
All the parts are going up.
I bought the mitre stand, box metal, angle iron to hold the playfield to and two swivel plates that are the base of bar stools that turn. Ebay Link
The bases are now over £30 each, make this no longer a cheap option.
I welded the swivel plates to the box metal on across the centre of one side and the angle iron to the other side. I think @Mfresh bolted the idea up first.
The box metal slides into the Saw stand and then swivel plates allow you to rotate the playfield.
You can take these brackets off and still use the mitre saw as intended.
 
All the parts are going up.
I bought the mitre stand, box metal, angle iron to hold the playfield to and two swivel plates that are the base of bar stools that turn. Ebay Link
The bases are now over £30 each, make this no longer a cheap option.
I welded the swivel plates to the box metal on across the centre of one side and the angle iron to the other side. I think @Mfresh bolted the idea up first.
The box metal slides into the Saw stand and then swivel plates allow you to rotate the playfield.
You can take these brackets off and still use the mitre saw as intended.
This is the same route I went with when I built my original rotisserie. I think it cost me around £100, and was easy to make but like you said, it would definitely cost over that now unfortunately.
 

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So i made one years ago when i was doing my first PF swap (Wh2o). Useful when refitting Mechs (like pop bumpers), however completely useless when the loom is connected as it's a right pain to flip... Personally i do believe it's by no means a necessity....
 
It has been worked on for 18 months and counting. I procrastinate and take too long.

Man I couldn't. I'm the opposite I plough through until its done. The detriment of my sanity sometimes. You should get some new ramps too when Fantasy pinball does a batch. I hear its any month now.
 
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To give myself some credit. It arrived non booting and I fixed a lot in the first month to get it running.
Then decided to strip and clean it but only get a few hours on it a month. I am now collecting parts to rebuild.
 
Welding was overkill. Bolt it like @Ant-H did will work just as well, require less equipment and not melt the grease around the bearings.
The only other thing I did when I had mine, was to drill another hole in the swivel plates so that I could use a pin to lock it in place.
The reason I did this was I found that when I was screwing anything to the PF where I had to use a little pressure, the PF would spin in the rotisserie. By using the the locking pin, it would stop this from happening.
 
The only other thing I did when I had mine, was to drill another hole in the swivel plates so that I could use a pin to lock it in place.
The reason I did this was I found that when I was screwing anything to the PF where I had to use a little pressure, the PF would spin in the rotisserie. By using the the locking pin, it would stop this from happening.
I have done that but also thought if the lazy Susan fell to pieces it would stop the playfield dropping.
Made mine from joist of cuts I had left over and the angle has been in the garage over 20 years so only cost me a few quid, just need to screw a crossmember in place one the playfield is on.
 

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