Lifted from elsewhere....
So I decided to put LEDs in my troll eyes. The first step is getting the LEDs into the eyes themselves. I chose not to add any other circuitry in the head; the head gets beaten about, so the less joints the better. My initial plan is to run off of the troll hold coil. That's going to mean about 70V, so we'll be using a 4k7 resistor to limit the current, and a diode to protect the LEDs against any unforeseen happenings.
I prefer the greater robustness of red LEDs for this mod. And Pam says that the red LEDs look better in the game. Using the hold coil keeps all the wiring inside the assembly. If I was inspired, I would rewire the power connector and add a Molex disconnect. But I am not that inspired right now.
Materials:
4x red LEDs (two spares recommended in case something goes wrong)
3" of 1/8" heatshrink
8" of3/16" heatshrink
2x 4k resistors - these should be 1W parts. 1/4W - surprisingly - is OK, but will get ugly in the long run.
1x 510R resistor (for testing)
9V battery - also for testing
2x 1n4007 diodes
6 feet 24GA stranded wire
4 small tie wraps
We have a kit for all this stuff on Pinbits. The wire that we have there is Troll green 24GA teflon coated 19 strand wire (compared to 7 strands for regular wire). It is even silver plated, but that doesn't matter here. the reason to us it is that the extra strands make it extremely flexible, so that it won't mind all the movement for the carriage. Also, the Teflon jacket won't run away from your soldering iron - which makes for nice-looking joints.
So I decided to put LEDs in my troll eyes. The first step is getting the LEDs into the eyes themselves. I chose not to add any other circuitry in the head; the head gets beaten about, so the less joints the better. My initial plan is to run off of the troll hold coil. That's going to mean about 70V, so we'll be using a 4k7 resistor to limit the current, and a diode to protect the LEDs against any unforeseen happenings.
I prefer the greater robustness of red LEDs for this mod. And Pam says that the red LEDs look better in the game. Using the hold coil keeps all the wiring inside the assembly. If I was inspired, I would rewire the power connector and add a Molex disconnect. But I am not that inspired right now.
Materials:
4x red LEDs (two spares recommended in case something goes wrong)
3" of 1/8" heatshrink
8" of3/16" heatshrink
2x 4k resistors - these should be 1W parts. 1/4W - surprisingly - is OK, but will get ugly in the long run.
1x 510R resistor (for testing)
9V battery - also for testing
2x 1n4007 diodes
6 feet 24GA stranded wire
4 small tie wraps
We have a kit for all this stuff on Pinbits. The wire that we have there is Troll green 24GA teflon coated 19 strand wire (compared to 7 strands for regular wire). It is even silver plated, but that doesn't matter here. the reason to us it is that the extra strands make it extremely flexible, so that it won't mind all the movement for the carriage. Also, the Teflon jacket won't run away from your soldering iron - which makes for nice-looking joints.