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Lockdown bar separated - welds have gone.

David_Vi

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Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
3,634
Location
Sudbury
Alias
DaveTheTrain
On the STTNG we're borrowing the lockdown bar felt like it was lifting on one end when playing. I took a look and two or so inches of the metal part with the hooks on was lifting off the lockdown bar, as if it was bent slightly.

Eventually it felt like the whole bar would pivot up off the game leaving the hooks in the receiver.
With it already separating it was only getting worse and it turned out the beer seal was holding it together.

Has anyone had this and fixed it? I have been told welding won't work as it's plated and the welding will mark the topside. Superglue I don't think will hold it?

The local welder I know said the business next to him might have a solution that won't cause any marks, some sort of panel bonding they use on car panels. Waiting to hear back to see if it's viable.

received_261772020316022.jpegScreenshot_20240312_002016_Photos.jpgScreenshot_20240312_002028_Photos.jpg
 
Sez the retiree :p

JB weld is a consideration, I think that's the metal bonding stuff, and it's not taking any heavy load so I'd have thought should hold fine?

Like any adhesive, clean surfaces are the key. Complete scrub, maybe a rough sanding to make a key, then IPA/rubbing alc to remove any oil/grime which might affect the adhesion.

I'm in the same boat with a busted coin door... it's actually fine if bent back straight and repainted, but it's finding the right finish. Also the coin mechs are a rabbit hole. Like anything it's knowing what to search for. "Sentinal mounting plate" was the key. Anyway I'm going OT...

Good luck
 
Life is too short to worry about this... just treat the game to a new one...

It's a very nice lockdown bar ignoring the separation, the beer seal looks new too. So it would be a shame to waste it. Also it's not my game so if possible I'd like to save @Fubar £100 🤣

Always good to try to repair before replacing

Ive seen quite a few modern replacements are glued, not welded.

With what? Has to be something decent. I found an old post on this forum where someone fixed the same issue using this stuff.

JB weld is a consideration, I think that's the metal bonding stuff, and it's not taking any heavy load so I'd have thought should hold fine?
I'll look into that, maybe it's similar to the Aradlite rapid stuff.

You'd be surprised how much stress the lockdown bar is under. A few big nudges and my attempt with superglue was gone 😄
 
I'll look into that, maybe it's similar to the Aradlite rapid stuff.

You'd be surprised how much stress the lockdown bar is under. A few big nudges and my attempt with superglue was gone 😄
Original JB Weld has ground steel in it so, once set, it's incredibly hard wearing. Also it is grey coloured. Other than that, it's very similar to the Aradlite.

They are both great products. Given the option, I'd use JBWeld in this job, but I suspect both will work just fine as long as you follow @strobey's instructions regarding cleaning and keying the surfaces.
 
JB Weld is good. TIG welding is better.

I was advised that welding would cause marks on the top side, from the heat.

I don't know anything about welding but I was picturing welding around the edges rather than the original spot welds
 
3 of my lockdown bars are glued like this. it’s some sort of expanding foam type glue

IMG_8399.jpeg

btw they are rock solid
 
3 of my lockdown bars are glued like this. it’s some sort of expanding foam type glue

View attachment 246620

btw they are rock solid

That looks like Gorilla glue, it foams up and sets that exact colour. I used it three years ago to try fix a broken shooter rod (i was very new to the hobby 🤣) I made a mess of it obviously and it didn't suit that use.

I tried it a few times but never had good results, probably meant for big jobs like the lockdown bar.
 
That looks like Gorilla glue, it foams up and sets that exact colour. I used it three years ago to try fix a broken shooter rod (i was very new to the hobby 🤣) I made a mess of it obviously and it didn't suit that use.

I tried it a few times but never had good results, probably meant for big jobs like the lockdown bar.
Worth a try then
 
I was advised that welding would cause marks on the top side, from the heat.

I don't know anything about welding but I was picturing welding around the edges rather than the original spot welds

What you would do is drill out the original spot welds on the lock plate and then spot weld it back in place again, but yes the heat would likely tarnish the finish if it was chromed, if just plain metal then the tarnishing could be polished/ground out.

An example is in this video. (Go to 33min 28sec if it doesnt start there)

 
What you would do is drill out the original spot welds on the lock plate and then spot weld it back in place again, but yes the heat would likely tarnish the finish if it was chromed, if just plain metal then the tarnishing could be polished/ground out.

An example is in this video. (Go to 33min 28sec if it doesnt start there)

Yes I have done this and polished out very successfully on a RS
 
Sez the retiree :p

Who are you calling a retiree...?

David and I both work for a living.... :hmm:

He could have bought the lockbar this morning and it could have been arriving in tomorrow's post. That said it looks like it'll get repaired with plenty for David to worry about in order to get it right. Have you consulted @Fubar as to his thoughts?
 
Its gone to be bonded by someone locally who won't make a mess of it like I probably would 😄

It's funny I've played STTNG more without a lockdown bar and got my highest scores. It'll be a treat when it's back.😄
 
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