IJ Pop Bumper Pics Needed!

[Steve]

Does anyone have pictures of the pop bumpers on the underside of a Williams IJ?

I can't find any reference as to how the bumper light legs are soldered underneath the playfield and like an idiot didn't take any pictures of this area.

Any help appreciated!

 

[Calimori]

These are from iPad....

 

[Calimori]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Calimori]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Calimori]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Calimori]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Calimori]

Mine might be a little bodged but it looks like the general layout is original. The machine is open so I can do request shots.

 

[Steve]

Geoff you are a diamond!

Thanks for that, I can crack on now!

 

[Steve]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

That looks factory to me, I'll use it to wire mine the same.

 

[Steve]

Thanks Geoff, those pictures were perfect! In fact almost all the staples I used went back in the same factory holes!

 

[Calimori]

Good to hear it made sense of the existing holes. Very tidily done there.

 

[bartron]

use ring terminals on the end of the stranded wire, then a small screw to hold it down and make contact with the lamp holder lead , no fiddly soldering to be done then, so much less chance of solder splashes.
stan

 

[Calimori]

That is one of those tips that I just don't understand why they were not made that way. That has to be easier than what they gave us, I guess the cost of the ring terminals and screws would have added up over a run.

 

[Steve]

use ring terminals on the end of the stranded wire, then a small screw to hold it down and make contact with the lamp holder lead , no fiddly soldering to be done then, so much less chance of solder splashes.
stan

Sounds a great idea Stan, I'm hopeless at soldering so this makes more sense anyway.

 

[Calimori]

Do these help? ;-)

 

[Steve]

Progress has ground to a halt again!

I'm now connecting all the wiring back up and have come up with a problem. The wires from the optos on the right (plastic) ramp are raw i.e. they are bare with no plug (see pic attached).
I must have taken pics at the time, but they've disappeared along with the others. It's been so long since I removed them I can't remember where they went?
Problem is there is some non-factory connectors in the vicinity and I'm guessing some sort of botch-job in the past? (See other pics).
any ideas?

 

[Calimori]

I am not near the machine today, I will sort you out later if I get home in time or tomorrow morning.

 

[Steve]

Cheers Geoff, don't like to keep asking you!

 

[Calimori]

I am more than happy to help and usually able to do it. Sadly work occasionally forces me to visit them .

 

[Calimori]

Steve, I hope these help. On the coils, most have the right lug as the thin wire, but for the idol release, mode kick out, underneath ramp proper, drop targets and the totem drop target have it the other way round.
Back box image shows the cable twist plus the violet wire connection.

 

[Calimori]

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Steve]

Cheers Geoff, my button wiring matches yours so no problems there. That's one less thing to worry about!

 

[Moonraker]

Problem is there is some non-factory connectors in the vicinity and I'm guessing some sort of botch-job in the past? (See other pics).
any ideas?

Yep, match wires from the optos with the ones in the block eg. grey and yellow to grey and yellow, black to black, orange and red to orange and red, etc.

 

[Steve]

Yep, match wires from the optos with the ones in the block eg. grey and yellow to grey and yellow, black to black, orange and red to orange and red, etc.

Yep, that worked. All switches are now working perfectly. (Everything else doesn't)!!

 

[Calimori]

We had most of the solenoids working yesterday apart from the one that blew the fuse.
Is this in test mode that none of the solenoids work? If so, check connections and fuses as we had most of them working yesterday.

 

[Steve]

I'm down to my last 3 amp fuse! Unless I stick a 4 amp one in?

 

[Calimori]

I don't know what the effects of that extra amp would be and we know there is an issue causing it to blow so I would get more of those mini fuses first. It might be that 2.5 is too small as it is meant to be 3 but again I can't say for sure.

 

[cooldan]

Go to one stop pinball and buy some of his circuit breakers. Stick it in there and whenever it pops you just have to press a button to reset it. That will help you find the problem without using all your fuses up. I think they're £2.50 each.

 

[Steve]

Go to one stop pinball and buy some of his circuit breakers. Stick it in there and whenever it pops you just have to press a button to reset it. That will help you find the problem without using all your fuses up. I think they're £2.50 each.

Sounds like a good idea, I've just ordered one!

 

[Steve]

I don't know what the effects of that extra amp would be and we know there is an issue causing it to blow so I would get more of those mini fuses first. It might be that 2.5 is too small as it is meant to be 3 but again I can't say for sure.

I took a chance with a 4 amp and it blew straight away on start-up.

Everything seems to be working fine apart from the left flipper and the idol ball release gate? It reports only one error on start-up,

"ER. SINGLE DRP. BAD CHK. SWITCH/COIL"

Weird thing is, the single drop target is working fine?

I turned it on last night after fiddling with it, and it played a complete game with no problems apart from the left flipper and idol ball release not working. All switches are working, ramps, gates, popper, mini playfield, idol, jet bumpers, slingshots, everything is doing what it's supposed to be doing. But stick a 105 fuse in and it blows either on start-up or during the game? I've swapped out the left flipper cabinet board (no change) and switched the wiring on the idol ball release coil in case I had it round the wrong way (no change).