Hi All, Newbie to Pinball Info, seeking help on Sorcerer....

[IBUR]

Would love to say I am an experienced pinball repairer, but sadly very much not the case. I am new to poking around in the cabinet, and freaked out by the schematics.

However, I am diving in, and have been working on a Sorcerer that was garage stored for several years. It's in pretty good shape, and have so far stripped the deck, new rubbers, repaired couple targets, and all the mechanicals are cleaned and working. But, the original gas plasma display is not.

Anyone know if just the glass displays can be bought anywhere? I see new LED replacements available, but would like to keep as original as possible.

1 of the 4 displays works fine, and does so in each player from 1 to 4, so the board and electrics seem fine (?). The other displays are either missing digits, or show nothing at all. (The issue on each display moves with the display glass as I move it around the players). Credits are out too.

Feels like a waste to replace the the board and electrics if they are OK, but not having any luck finding replacement displays or anyone who is able to refurbish. Anyone know if they can be either sourced or repaired?

Many thanks.

 

[Fantazia2]

If some of the digits light up on the displays it might be worth trying to reflow the solder on the display and input header pins first before writing them off.

It terms of what I have seen for price you might be better off buying the replacement xpin or rottendog display kits as they work out about the same price and possibly less likely to fail than used parts, and then you can also pull the fuse on the 100v section of the power supply.

Also be careful messing about with the display wiring when its live due to the high DC voltages present.

 

[IBUR]

OK, thanks. Will try that on the display that has nothing showing at all. Even it brings up just a couple of digits will imply it's an area to continue focus. (Might practice soldering a bit more though before I try the actual pins).

 

[Pick Holder]

Hello there,

Here is my advice (take it or leave it) I kinda do not get the 'keep it original' idea. Unless you have an absolutely mint item and want it to be a museum piece.

LED score units take a lot of issues away from the old power supply board. These displays need (I think - havent looked at schematics) + and - 100V DC. The connectors and pins also fail,

Would also look at changing lamps to LED to keep the heat down.

Get so many issues with bad connectors/pins on this age of pinball - a lot down to heat.

Your machine will be happier with LEDs (in my opinion).

@AlanJ is the man for non flicker boards and replacement LED modules if you decide to go down that route.

I know I am giving you advice you have not asked for but I have been repairing these things now for 25 years (on and off) and I used to HATE LEDs - but I now rarely use old fashioned lamps.

Alan may also have some old displays - he has previously helped me out but given time - as they are old - they will more than likely fail.

 

[Jay Walker]

These displays need (I think - havent looked at schematics) + and - 100V DC.

They do indeed; Williams chose to derive separate + and - 100v DC rails for the glass display 'envelopes', which are the same (except for the special 4-digit Credit/Ball in Play/Match or 'status' display) as used by Bally and Stern at the time. The others used an adjustable +190v rail, regulated down from 230v dc, and just as (if not more) dangerous when investigating the circuit boards, even with the mains power off. They're now obsolete, along with the 'MJE #####' transistors Williams used in the power supply circuits. If tiny silver speckles are visible inside the sandwich construction of the display glass, it's definitely failed.

 

[IBUR]

Both - Thanks for the advice. Good point about longevity, and future proof reliability of the game. It's def one that should be used and not be idle. I will look at replacement displays if pin solder does not work in short term.

I have played a couple of tables with LED's, but really did not like the light, and what seemed to be a low-level flicker. But if the right choice of LED's does not play with these issues, and has the benefits you say, that too will be on the list. Thank you.