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Haggis Pinball

Haggis Pinball

Haggis Pinball

Registered
Joined
Sep 25, 2018
Messages
19
Location
Melbourne Australia
Hi everyone. A good mate and I recently decided to try and make a pinball machine from scratch (yes, beers may have been involved).

We also decided to create a vlog and document the process so anyone else that was interested, could follow along (and help keep us accountable) 1f642.png

Episode 1 is now live, so please have a watch if you think this may be your thing.

You can also find us on YouTube here: Haggis Pinball, subscribe to get the latest updates and/or hit us up on Facebook: Haggis Pinball



Cheers,
Damian
 
What a disappointment, I was expecting a Scottish Pinball!

All the best for your project and I look forward to watching it progress.

Welcome to the forum.
 
Something you might want to reconsider is the use of micro switches for flipper buttons. They don't operate fast enough for this application. I would probably use leaf switches in your case as that's an easy thing to substitute and you already have exactly the right 'blue' flipper push buttons.

Some Euro operators "back in the day" used to swap out the opto flipper boards when they failed for micros and that really caused problems with flipper operation during gameplay.

My AU$0.02
 
Thanks Mike - I appreciate the input :)

I had someone else message me to let me know using the flipper buttons with the integrated microswitch was a bad idea... so I'm sensing a theme here ;)

Will look at the opto boards now.

Cheers,
Damian
 
Opto boards will bring another level of complication but are certainly the best way to go. Consider a simple leaf switch. These were used for a very long time with excellent results.

There are several advantages to using a simple leaf switch. Cheap, simple, easy to adjust AND maybe most important CLEARANCE. There is very little space between the edge of the playfield and the flipper switch (as I'm sure you will find).

1541296548410.png
 
Here it is!
The theme for Haggis Pinball's first ever pinball machine, coming 2019


Wraith is a pinball machine born of a story of tragedy, loss, mystery, darkness, decay, rebirth and resurrection.
Wraith is a living mechanism, a key to the lock that is the mystery of Fall River and the disappearance of a family of 9 in 1892.
Now, in 2019, we have the chance to hold that key, turn it in the lock. Help us help them to rise. Help us help them to rest.
Their story must be told. They want us to know what happened. They deserve this. So do you.
 
Interesting theme it should certainly allow for a different approach.
 
Hi all, been a little while since I've posted on here and there's been a lot going on!
There have been a bunch more episodes in the "Let's make a Pinball" series, plus we made it to TPF with a whitewood for Celts (Wraith is currently on hold) and we've also started a design challenge for artwork.

If you haven't already seen them, below are current episodes:

Episode 11

Episode 12

Episode 13

Episode 14

Episode 15

Episode 16
 
spindle speed: 1000s/piD
where: s=surface speed (for wood 200m/min)
D=dia of cutter

Feed per tooth: fine cut 0.1mm (o.05 for plastics or ally) roughing 0.2mm(0.1 for plastics or ally)

safe depth of cut is 1/3rd the dia of the cutter, you can go deeper depending on your software and set up (spinde power etc).

use a straight flute cutter https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/power-tools/router-cutters/3-12-6-3mm-professional-tct-2-flute-straight-cutter-1-4"-shank/ps/ZT1025552X?utm_campaign=pla-Power+Tools+-+&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping-pla&utm_keyword=ZT1025552X&istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istFeedId=8719e243-9ed6-485d-b654-4023447f0a65&istItemId=wximaxwrq&istBid=tztx&mkwid=mKMTGMWn-dc&pcrid=314501973979&pkw=&pmt=&prodid=ZT1025552X&slid=&pgrid={groupid}&ptaid=pla-585779433072&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs_fKot7g4QIVQrTtCh0UCwzMEAQYASABEgKOTPD_BwE


the router you have doesn't have feedback encoders so it trusts to luck it has moved the right amount. If it stalls out you will get a positioning error. So you may want to drop the feed. I just used a larger piece of wood for the bed and screwed the playfield wood down to that with countersunk screws. That way there's no chance of hitting clamps.
 
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Sven Normansson said:
I just used a larger piece of wood for the bed and screwed the playfield wood down to that with countersunk screws. That way there's no chance of hitting clamps.
Click to expand...

CNC machines for the sheet metal industry is my business, I have a few customers who route titanium (punched and laser cut components can have undue stresses which some aviation companies won't accept), they all screw the titanium down to a sacrificial wooden base board.

From my training as a toolmaker, I would also say you don't want the feed rate to slow as it will dull your slot drills, as they could be rubbing rather than cutting, I also would suspect the glue in the plywood is probably going to be more abrasive to the cutters than the wood itself.

Chris.
 
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Thanks guys. The 'ol straight cutter v spiral downcut v compression bit really had me scratching my head to be honest.
Like most things on the internet, there seems to be a voice promoting one variant over the other and time and cost was a consideration when trying to dial it in.

It does seem to be behaving for the most part now (using a two flue spiral downcut in 8mm for the bigger holes and 3mm for the smaller)
The X-Carve has seemed to develop a bit of play on the z-axis which now means my pocket cuts aren't perfectly square on the corners, so I need to have a look at what I can do to stabilise that

I had come across a Speed and Feed calculator (GWizard) which I used to initially to try and determine my rates... tho that now is a little more free-flow (as in speed of spindle), I've left the feed at 700mm/min and the plunge at 300
 
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