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Sold GROUP BUY: FISHPAPER

Just got back from the Post Office. Poor girl on the counter nearly passed out when she saw all the letters as she assumed I wanted them sent Recorded. She was very relieved when I only asked for 2nd Class :p

Letters were sent to the following people: @DRD, @astyy, @Mfresh, @lukewells, @myPinballs, @JT., @ronsplooter, @mufcmufc, @Gaz Shiells, @kevlar, @Matt Adams, @nick-the-greek, @andy, @Paul, @Arv, @aaronhicksuk, @GrizZ, @BigIan, @Calimori, @Monkeyboypaul, @Carl Spiby, @newdos and @elrikos.

Please let me know when they arrive so I can update the status on the original post :)
 
I received mine today as well and very professionally packaged too. Thanks for sorting it out for everyone, its a useful addition to my spares bin. :)
 
Determined to find a use for it now
Thanks, everyone. No problem at all. Social repayment and good vibes for all the help I've received on here.

As for finding a use... friend is doing a playfield rebuild and removes the flipper mechs to access the lamps underneath that are for the slingshots. What does he find...? ...some rather knackered fishpaper covers to prevent contact between the GI and flipper electrics!
 
Wow! Looks like Royal Mail has been doing a good job so far. Nearly half (11) of the of the 23 items I posted on Friday were delivered 1 working day later by 2nd Class! Unheard of...
 
Received mine. Many thanks for doing this. It will let me put a wider piece between the metal start button and 240 volt switch blade on the 60's Gottliebs. I've only been able to buy the blade shaped ones from PBR up until now, and they really are a compromise in this situation. Thoese old games usually have the original piece of fishpaper installed, it is often misaligned, and the metal coin doors were not earthed from the factory.
 
Received mine. Many thanks for doing this. It will let me put a wider piece between the metal start button and 240 volt switch blade on the 60's Gottliebs. I've only been able to buy the blade shaped ones from PBR up until now, and they really are a compromise in this situation. Thoese old games usually have the original piece of fishpaper installed, it is often misaligned, and the metal coin doors were not earthed from the factory.
Sorry? Come again? 240V switch blade on the coin door.... er... what?!?!?!? Could you enlighten me with a photo and further explanation, please? Sound lethal, but glad you're putting your fishpaper to good use!
 
Glad to hear @JT., @ronsplooter, @Gaz Shiells, @kevlar, @Matt Adams, @nick-the-greek, @Paul, @aaronhicksuk, @GrizZ, @BigIan, @Monkeyboypaul and @Carl Spiby have all received their fishpaper safely :D

@DRD, @astyy, @Mfresh, @lukewells, @myPinballs, @mufcmufc, @andy, @Arv, @Dave2084, @elrikos, @Calimori and @newdos let me know when it arrives so I can update the traffic lights on the original post ;)

Hey, @Eddie Twadds, your sheet is still available if you want it?

And if anyone else wants some/more then there are still 2 other sheets available, which I'll take to Special When Lit in Salisbury next time I go, most likely date being Friday 27th.
 
Mine arrived today thank you. Great idea putting a label on it to remind me what it is.
 
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Sorry? Come again? 240V switch blade on the coin door.... er... what?!?!?!? Could you enlighten me with a photo and further explanation, please? Sound lethal, but glad you're putting your fishpaper to good use!
Yes mate, 240 volts on 60's Gottlieb metal coin doors and no earth on the door. Both the replay and tilt switches in the stack on the metal coin door are UK mains voltage, so is the coin switch. Only thing insulating them from the metal start button and the wire the coin hits is a switch blade shaped piece of fish paper. On early bally and Williams games, the flipper button that lights the game also has UK mains on it. At least Williams and bally bothered to run some earthing in the game, though they didn't always bother to connect it to the mains lead! And Williams used red cable for the earth wiring and yellow for the + and switched the neutral, leaving the game live when the under cabinet switch was off. Magic City is one example of a game they wired like that. The pic's show the replay & tilt stack, the fishpaper that has moved out of position because a stack was loose, and the end of the metal replay button (on a Gottlieb King Of Diamonds)
A section of the schematc from a mid 60s Gottlieb (Sing Along). Everything below the primary winding is UK mains, and there is quite a lot of it. By the early seventies, only the cabinet switch is left, the rest is all 25 volt.
 

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OMG :eek: a I think I've just changed my mind about wanting an EM. What utter lunatic thought mains on all those switches, even at 110V, was a good idea?
 
OMG :eek: a I think I've just changed my mind about wanting an EM. What utter lunatic thought mains on all those switches, even at 110V, was a good idea?
I guess the safety aspect of things was less important then. UK domestic lighting circuits were often not earthed in the sixties, and metal light fittings were in use.
It's sorted easily enough. Just fit a new 3 core mains lead, earth the transformer chassis, the on/off switch housing (if fitted), the coin door & ldb. Add a new piece of fishpaper to the replay & coin switches (I also ad an extra layer of insulation to the replay switch, could even double up the fishpaper) and any faults will either blow a fuse or trip an MCB. And never leave the coin door open or with keys in if you have kids or visitors.
I've never heard of a death from a fault on an original game, but it is a bloody dangerous design, especially when that fishpaper insulation is now 50 + years old.
And you really should get an EM. Go through it to make it play as it should and you'll discover a relativley quick and frustrating game which is great fun to play. Get the right one and it will keep you playing 'just one more game' to try and beat it. I recommend a early to mid sixties 2" flipper game. If you're ever in the West Midlands, you'r wecome and play a few of mine.
 
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