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Glass lift-out instead of slide-out?

cooldan

i like pizza
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
6,456
Location
Ealing, London
Hi chaps



Does anyone know of a good way to adapt a table so the glass can lift out, saving all the extra space needed in front of it? I'm thinking of something like a track/hinge affair along one or both rails.



Has anyone done this? Is there a company doing this as a service? Would it still be structurally sound?



I'm sure I'm not the only one who could fit more pins in with something like that - I could then use a 7' space instead of needing it to be 9' to allow for glass removal. I think I read somewhere that a table was made like that way back, but I'm not looking for a history lesson, just is it a viable upgrade nowadays?



Any and all advice welcomed, there must be loads of practical and imaginative solutions out there.



Taj very mahal
 
Hey Dan



know what you mean but really don't think it would be viable option on a modern table. *Maybe* you could attach some sort of hinged part/glass to the top of the table just in front of the dmd but I think it could be messy.



One way to gain a bit of space is to prop up the front legs on a block of wood when you need to remove the glass. You can gain a good bit of space with the extra height. I know Poibug uses this method to cram games in his room.
 
hmmmm, that could be an interesting solution - any idea how high the wooden block has to be?

and is it a basic knees-bend dead lift onto the wood when needed?
 
cooldan' date=' post: 1690812 said:
hmmmm, that could be an interesting solution - any idea how high the wooden block has to be?

and is it a basic knees-bend dead lift onto the wood when needed?



I think so Dan. Not actually seen Poibugs block in action. Maybe he will comment or drop him a message. I believe it works well for games facing each other as you gain enough height to get the glass out over the facing table ....if you follow.
 
I haven't tried this, or seen it, but just thought it might work. Measure the depth of one channel. Now get a new piece of glass cut to the standard width less the depth of one channel. So now in theory, whilst holding the short edges, the glass will slot in one side channel, and then be moved back halfway into the opposite channel. Now what's to stop it just falling out during play? Well, if you inserted a wooden fillet of say about 4" long and half the depth of one of the channels at the top of the channel, then the glass could then be dropped in below the fillet and then slid the final four inches between the fillets, which will prevent it moving left and right. Add a couple of removeable fillets at the bottom to stop lateral movement at the bottom, and you have a glass which you can remove with about 4" of forward movement.



Another way would be to detach the side rail and lane guide at the bottom, so that you can pull it to one side to release the glass when it is half way out. The lockbar should hold it all in place when assembled.
 
Interesting. I'm having a similar dilemma atm. Glass gets down to the apron before it hits the wall!
 
pinballmania' date=' post: 1690823 said:
.....get a new piece of glass cut.........wooden fillet........... a couple of removeable fillets ...............
sounds too complex for me

pinballmania' date=' post: 1690823 said:
....detach the side rail and lane guide at the bottom, so that you can pull it to one side to release the glass when it is half way out. The lockbar should hold it all in place when assembled.
now THAT i like, sounds like a great plan, that combined with poibug's wooden block trick. how easy is it to detach these?



cheers Andy
 
The only problem I can see with that is if you do it over and over then surely the rail will start to bend in the middle?
 
johnh' date=' post: 1692733 said:
Why bother playing with the glass on ? My scores are always better without glass.

So are mine but that is because I catch the ball when things are not going my way.
smile-1.png
 
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