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Getting started with TAF

One other thing to check on your machine with regards to locale is the dip switches - that often control some aspects of language also.


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LordBucketHead said:
edit.. a new day.. I've just realised that all the row shorts are in the same row (7) on the matrix.
Click to expand...

I'm not that great at fixing things yet, so I might have got this wrong, but i think if there are phantom switches registering on one particular row or column then you probably have a bad diode on one of the switches. so when it is registering the machione thinks others are registering too.

I'm not sure how to test though. You'll have to do something with a multimeter.

Then replace the faulty diode and you should be good to go.:)
 
Sorry to take so long to update.. too many non-pinball-related issues not giving me a chance to enjoy myself. The common denominator of flaws on the switch matrix seems to be IC U19 just below the battery holder and it seems it has been horribly affected by the batteries. All of the boards look lovely apart from that one area which makes me think it's soldering iron time (preceded by a practice 4 quid clock soldering kit). I don't really want to spend £150 on a new board when I could buy 600 sausage rolls with that kind of money. Am I right in thinking that the link I am about to post is a replacement for U19 or is it not that simple ? Great if it is as I can pop into town and buy it for 39 pence tomorrow ?
https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/lm339n-uh31j
 

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LordBucketHead said:
Sorry to take so long to update.. too many non-pinball-related issues not giving me a chance to enjoy myself. The common denominator of flaws on the switch matrix seems to be IC U19 just below the battery holder and it seems it has been horribly affected by the batteries. All of the boards look lovely apart from that one area which makes me think it's soldering iron time (preceded by a practice 4 quid clock soldering kit). I don't really want to spend £150 on a new board when I could buy 600 sausage rolls with that kind of money. Am I right in thinking that the link I am about to post is a replacement for U19 or is it not that simple ? Great if it is as I can pop into town and buy it for 39 pence tomorrow ?
https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/lm339n-uh31j
Click to expand...
Need to neutralise the acid on the board first !!
Personally I would sockit all the chips in that area and fit new chips , or send it to a few chaps on here to repair it for you !
Me I am dead lazy at the mo so I would say put a new board in :)
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, especially the tips (vinegar, sockets etc). I bought some ICs + sockets, pcb cleaner & resistors today (they won't come in wrong) but after I read your replies & took the board out I've thought better of it. There's battery smudge everywhere and I can't really be bothered to play in it. I'm using it for practice as was wisely suggested by sutol and I've already learned today to pick the soldering iron up by the plastic end when it's set at 330 degrees.
Could someone recommend a CPU board seller please ?
Thanks again. Much obliged.
 
Sutol said:
Here is one

http://www.pinballdisplays.co.uk/product-p/wpc089.htm

Grab a colordmd whilst your at it :thumbs:
Click to expand...
Looks good ! I wonder what the special tool looks like for the ASIC ? I'll probably take the 'send us your board' option. Makes sense if it's a free option.
Colordmd ? £300 ? My favourite colour scheme is orange and black. For the moment anythow. Thanks for pointing it out though :)
 
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carl lawrence said:
Now if you was going to the NLP this weekend you could pick one from Phil , pinball heaven if you give him notice to bring one ;)
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My Mother & Father - in laws 50th wedding anniversary on Saturday at 2pm. Me and HM would otherwise have defo been there. I still haven't ruled it out though.
 
New board fitted and it's a whole lot better.
Almost all of the problems are resolved (barring the top two swamp switches in switch edges that have clearly seen better days - I think I can handle those)
I hope I don't come across as a psychopath, but, how do I get rid of the previous owner's family members and their scores.

Edit: And replace them with my own family ? (I know it sounds increasingly sinister)

And (I'm really sorry about this) ... how do you get two or more players to work ? I've tried pressing the start button during the first ball play to no effect ?
 
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LordBucketHead said:
New board fitted and it's a whole lot better.
Almost all of the problems are resolved (barring the top two swamp switches in switch edges that have clearly seen better days - I think I can handle those)
I hope I don't come across as a psychopath, but, how do I get rid of the previous owner's family members and their scores.

Edit: And replace them with my own family ? (I know it sounds increasingly sinister)

And (I'm really sorry about this) ... how do you get two or more players to work ? I've tried pressing the start button during the first ball play to no effect ?
Click to expand...
As you have changed out the cpu board the default scores will show. It's like you've just reset the game. Get practising and knock those default scores off.
For 2 players press the start button twice before the game starts. 3 times for 3 players ect.

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Re. multi-player games;

Provided there are sufficient credits (if the machine isn't on Free Play) then additional players can be added at any point before the end of the first ball. Once Ball 2 or later is in effect, pressing the Start button will cancel all existing games and begin another new game.

Some of the later games have an adjustment which limits or prevents this (cancellation) happening, but I don't think Addams has it.

alteration in italics
 
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Thanks Sutol & Jay. I'd forgotten how addictive these things are. My wife disappeared straight into the garage when she came in from work lol
 
A couple of questions. I had a look at the 'Swamp' switches tonight and they've clearly taken a battering for many years. The two that aren't scoring are in a really bad state so I may as well replace them. I've done a safeguard diagram of the wiring to guide/save me (picture attached) before I start removing switches because I don't have enough knowledge of schematics (I do have a TAF one - but the CPU one is missing) but I would love to know where/how to look and see the wiring for this on the schematics. Which sheet is it to be found under please? (oddly enough.. I have another WPC schematic (TZ) which also has the CPU drawing missing) Also, I have all the manuals for TAF but where/how do I find information about which replacement diode I need for those switches if I need one ? Sorry for all the questions :rolleyes:

Edit: Not sorry enough obviously: what is the (UK measure) gauge of those wires under the playfield.
Also, clearly all the screws and bolts on these USA machines are not metric. Does anyone have a good link to the sizes and 'thread standards' for USA pinball machines complete with socket/spanner (wrench) sizes ? If not I might make it a project :thumbs:
 

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The switch wiring is only shown in the diagram of the switch matrix in the user manual. Diodes are 1n4004 or similar eg 1n4001.
 
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