Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, 473 ml, white
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QQGGEXN15W4GMAX82QYQ
lasts for ages and is easy to apply and more importantly remove.
I use it on all my games.
I use this too.
This is from a top playfield restorer Kruzman:
Quoted from Lamprey:
Ron,
I thought I read that you don’t use traditional carnauba wax, but rather a silicone-based “wax.” Is that true?
If so, do the silicone-based waxes cause issues when clearing (I.e. fish-eye) or does all the sanding make that non-issue?
Just curios, as the silicone-based waxes seems like a great way to go, but I’ve been sticking with carnauba incase I wanted to a have any cleared and not contaminate the current clear with silicone
Cheers!
More
Great question.
If you have a non cleared pf before the DMD era, then carnuba is the way to go, once you have used a cleaner to remove the oxidation, and dirt. Often those are called wax but they have scratchies in them. Only pure carnuba is a straight wax.
Then when it comes to diamond plates, I say you can use a cleaner, then carnuba, or you can go a cleaner, and then a silicone spray wax. Its a polymer that fills all of the little scrapes and holes in the surface like original wax. In this era, its whatever you have or which ever you like. still you want to clean the surface with a material that has abrasive to get it all fresh then lock it down and protect it with carbuba or silicone. seems like in this case carnuba last longer, but I like spraying the silicone on the ramps, habitrails, and even plastics. the smoother the surface the faster the ball travel, plus nothing for dust to grab on to.
Now when dealing with automotive clearcoats like everything that has been built since the year 2000. Including repros, stock sterns, My clear. With the automotive epoxy urathane, the carnuba kinda smears around, its super hard to buff out, and that is because its not enriching the lacquer like it does in the older pfs and car paints. Its just smears around the top. also carnuba is the enemy of clearcoaters. especially the body shop guts who do a dust coat rather than sand every surface. I use a dewaxer on every single pf I clear before every single coat. Though on older pfs, you need to use a brush to get inn the cracks and little areas. I am restoring an
I500 and a
rocky and bullwinkle pf, and before I even sanded them I de waxed them, because I didnt want to warm up and push the wax that is in a little crack even deeper or spread it around. I dont like to reveal the secrets I learned the hard way, but its for the better of the hobby.
I am sure there are plenty of opinions on that by people that have experience and people that have no frickin experience at all, but love to type. This is my opinion, and free at that, so take it for what it is worth.
If you have one of my clearcoats and want to know how to keep it up, drop me a line. I have written on it before, but I prob should like once a year.
Read the thread first knob jockey
