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Fuse F5 Blowing as soon as Machine switch on - where to start

bluejonny

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10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
295
Location
Southampton, UK
Hi everyone

I had a delivery to me today of DE "Time Machine" and it appears it has an issue where the flippers don't work - I noticed that fuse F5 had blown on the PPB so replaced, switched on machine and it blew instantly. Most other coils are working apart from the left kickback and VUK. All other fuses appear OK (tested out of their holders).

Any advice on where to start?

Cheers..

BJ
 
I had similar problem on Hook when I first got it - in my case was a bad laser kick coil ultimately causing it but it also took out it's driving transistor. Try disconnecting the kickback coil and see if the fuse still blows.
 
Yeah transistor on flipper board inside cab i'd go for.
 
I had this also with Tommy, 2nd or 3rd power on after changing fuses I managed to hear a coil engaging and not releasing so disconnected it (the ball auto launch) and its been fine since.

Turned out to be it's driving transistor on the board.

So best way disconnect one of the coils that go through the fuse and see if it then does not blow, if it does reconnect that coil and try again with another one disconnected.

Good luck
 
Astyy - You were absolutely spot on - the coil was literally fused to the rod! I can't get the rod out of the sleeve!! When I checked to see what was happening to cause the meltdown, it appears the there is no plastic sleeve and the metal rod was in contact with the housing. So the whole thing has fused together in one big molten mess. All the other coils seem to be working now, but I guess when I replace this one it won't work so I guess it would have taken something out on the board?
 
That's good cos its about the only fix I know!

Yes it's probably toasted its driving transistor on the board but that's pretty easy to check with your DMM and machine off. If you just replace the coil it will lock on again, blow the fuse etc.
 
without sounding lazy :-), what advice is there on checking the transistor? Haven't ventured that far before!
 
With a digital multi meter it is quite easy to check whether a transistor works without even removing the board on my games. Instructions as per above, but I am new to all this stuff and found it very straightforward to identify the culprit tranny
 
brilliant advice thanks all. So looking at the manual, it looks like the coil in question (laser kick) is connected to Q4 and according to the guide Astyy has given it's a TIP36C on the PPB. That then leads to solenoid driver 16 which is Q23 and I believe a TIP122. I think I am getting there.

Is there anywhere I can go to check to get values I should be reading please?

Thanks!
 
You should be getting a reading of 500 iirc. Replace both of them, it will have taken both out.
 
Depending on the triode, black on top red to either leg or reverse it.
 
Put meter on diode setting. Don't bother looking up numbers, just take measurements at the same point and orientation on surrounding transistors. They'll all be much the same except for the duff one which will be much different.
 
There's only two on the PPB and the one in question is Q4 which beeps on the continuity setting all three legs and a reading of 0.00. I take it that's bad as Q5 doesn't beep and gives me a reading of 92.2
 
Are you sure? I've looked in the manual and your PPB PCB looks v similar to my Hook - you should have 5 per below

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Assuming you've done the coil you should be ok. Sometime the tip102 could also be blown on the CPU.
 
I did coil, driving transistor and diode on coil. The pre-driver on CPU PCB was good.
 
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