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Flintstones Issues.

DanLewell

DanLewell

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
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Location
Northampton, UK
I got this from Chris Last week (top bloke. Thanks for all the bits to go with it. :thumbs:)

I've got the old broken Glass off, and new glass in OK. put some new balls in there and changed a few settings, volume, free play etc. but I cant get it to start a game?

I've gone through solenoid test and all the solenoids fire in test mode, but when it starts a game, it looks as though it is going to start, sound and display do their thing but it doesn't launch a ball?

If I launch a ball manually into the shooter lane then it doesn't get fired by the launch button, it just sits there.

Flippers dont work either, but the flipper switches are definitely ok because you can see the lane change lamps at the top moving when you press the flipper buttons.

The HV switch inside the coin door is OK because I can press that in test mode to get everything to test ok.

What should I try next?
 
I had this problem and it turned out that the coin door wasn't making correct contact with the hv switch, a bit of packing on the bracket and all's good.

Basically as said above. Good luck with the new pin.
 
Doh! Didn't think of that. Assumed the switch would be working when the door was closed rather than checking it was working. I bet that's it...
The pin's at work though so I won't get to check it until Monday. I'll report back once I've had a go.

Cheers for the help everyone.
 
pinballmania said:
Perhaps the door actuator is not pushing the button in properly.
Click to expand...

If it's still as factory fitment, the flange on the door will not only push both switches right in, but bend the bracket holding them. Every late Wpc game I unpacked was like that, I used to re-locate the bracket slightly to reduce the strain, after fitting a 2-way 'pull-out' switch as the power interlock.
 
OK, I've put a photo in to make it clearer before I get everyone more confused. The high voltage switch I was talking about is the one at the top.

The door is making contact with that because if I open the door I get a message about High voltage being disabled.

In game, nothing happens if this is pressed. BUT if I press the bottom two as well, then everything springs to life. (I just need to grown an extra pair of arms to play while holding all the buttons in...)

So, am I missing a bracket that should be pressing the bottom two in when the coin door is closed? and if so, where do I get one?

20160926_125436_resized.jpg
 
You've had a replacement door. The actuator is missing. The upper lower switch is the power interlock. It should be pushed in whenever the door is closed with a metal bracket. But you don't have one. It has a service override position if you pull the button outwards. I guess at sometime you've unknowingly pushed it in.
 
Dan,

Going by the serial number label, the door and its frame were originally fitted to a Terminator 2, which didn't have a power interlock. The switch in the top corner is in fact simply the switch which informs the cpu whether the door is shut. Seeing this open brings up the display message about the interlock, but the actual interlock is the upper of the two paired switches - the lowest switch probably isn't connected, since the switch matrix wires are on the corner switch.

If you have a strangely-shaped piece of metal, painted bright yellow, among any spares for the machine, it can be slipped over the top edge of the switch bracket, to hold the interlock closed. But as Andy says, it seems to be a 2-way switch, so pulling the switch plunger out will suffice. If you'd like to obtain an attachment for the door, there was a similar query recently, by 'thewool', titled "Coin door HV switch bracket".
 
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cool, thanks jay. That makes sense.

I think I would have to drill into the door to fit a bracket, so I'll leave it pulled out for now.

Cheers.
 
It's fine to play it like that but just be aware that if you wish to do any work under the playfield the high voltages will be active.
 
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