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Fitting 240v 50Hz ballast in Stern TSPP

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mark
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M

Mark

Hi guys, the tube in the back box in my TSPP was not working when I got it - in fact, it was not there at all!

I've bought a new tube from the hardware shop and a starter, but still not luck - it looks like the ballast needs replacing.

I've found both a 60Hz ballast for 110v and 50Hz ballast for 240v. It sounds like 50 hz for 240v would be best as it is less likely to wear out in future.

Anyway, am I right in thinking I simply get the 110v blue wires (from the back of the transformer connecting to a black and white wire), unplug this connection, and connect the 240v black and white wires from the power supply to the black and white wires which were previously connected to the blue wires, if you know what I mean?

I think this will supply 240v to the tube, and this will work providing I have the correct 240v 50Hz ballast. I don't have this yet but am planning on getting one shortly.

Anyway, before I go any further have I got the right idea?

Thanks in advance, Mark.
 
I have recently converted a stern to 240 ballast,but used a low heat electronic ballast so no starter req
 
Last edited:
Not had to do this yet but apparently any cheap ballast will do (said to be a fiver from B&Q) and pretty simple to fix (last famous words for when one of mine dies)...! :rolleyes:
 
Thanks guys, changing the wiring in the cabinet looks to be very straightforward so I think I can do that, and thanks for the pics showing it in place - very useful.

I'm not 100% about the wiring in the backbox though as it looks like the 110/240v wires from the cabinet go straight to the light fitting. I am not sure at what point the ballast comes in.

Does the power go straight to the tube on one end, and the ballast connect to the other end with the red/black wires?

Cheers, Mark
 
All elements are connected in series. So through the ballast , through the starter, through one end of tube, through the other end of tube and back to power supply.
 
Thanks Andy, I think I understand now. So do the live AND neutral go through the ballast, or just the live?
 
For the ballast specified, then just one conductor goes in then out to the next component.
 
To clarify. The starter should ideally be arranged so that it is in between a terminal of each end of the tube. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1379497794.151307.jpg where the black lump is the ballast and the long lump is the tube.
 
Thanks Andy,I think I understand it now.

I think the thing that I was confused about is the wires going to the tube seem a different colour than the black and white wires going up from the main cabinet.

I should have some time tonight so will have a proper look then. Thanks again for allyour help :)

Cheers, Mark.
 
Right, I've just been out to have another look and I feel a bit stupid now........ while I had the playfield up I followed the black and white wires from the transformer to the tube........ and they go to a plug sitting in the back of the cabinet, lying unplugged on the bottom. When I check in the back box I see a matching plug with black and white wires where this should go - so it was either deliberately unplugged or came undone and nobody bothered to reconnect it.

Anyway, assuming that the original ballast was probably duff, and that is why the power was disconnected and the tube missing, I measured the resistance across the ballast and got 27Ohms, does that sounds right or does that sound like the ballast is shorted?

Assuming it was not shorted I went ahead and plugged it back in but got nothing - but that might be as I have a 240v starter plugged in and not a 110v one.

So, my question is this, bearing in mind I already have a 240v ballast on order, should I a) buy a 110v starter to see if that works, and keep the original ballast (and retain the new one for a spare) or b) go ahead and connect up the 240v one anyway.

As usual, all advice appreciated. Although this is a pretty simple job (for most people apart from me) I am enjoying learning as this is not something I have delved into before.

Cheers, Mark.
 
Thanks JT, I suppose the lead could have been unplugged as a faulty ballast blew the tube at some point and it was disconnected to save it happening again.

Good idea - hopefully the ballast will arrive today or tomorrow so I will use that. As you say, it should be better for the long term anyway.

Cheers, Mark
 
Hi guys, all fixed :) The 50Hz ballast arrived, and it was only a 10 minute job to replace the ballast, alter the wiring to get the 240v, and job done! Thanks everyone for their input, and if anyone needs any advice on this in the future feel free to ask.
Only problem now is the reflection on the playfield - I remember someone on UKPinball mentioning a solution by wrapping something around the bulb but can;'t remember what so have posted over there.

If anyone has any advice on how to reduce reflection, please let me know.
Cheers, Mark
 
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